what to expect with no tune
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what to expect with no tune im doing a mild 355 rebuild and plan on keeping all the emmisions minus smog, and egr and watever wont be there with headers. what can i expect it to run like with no tune?
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yes i will be running a comp custom grind. do u think it will run good enough to break in before a tune?
What all is getting done?
If its just a 355 rebuild with headers and no emissions junk, same as every other car.
But like RamAir said, if you're doing a cam or anything like that, you better be close on the tune.
If anything, just get a mailorder, cheap enough and should get you some decent drivability.
If its just a 355 rebuild with headers and no emissions junk, same as every other car.
But like RamAir said, if you're doing a cam or anything like that, you better be close on the tune.
If anything, just get a mailorder, cheap enough and should get you some decent drivability.
Absolutely not.
Why WOULDN'T you get a tune? Assuming you just spent a few thousand on a rebuild, cam swap, exhaust, etc., another $150 should be nothing especially considering how poorly the engine would run.
Why WOULDN'T you get a tune? Assuming you just spent a few thousand on a rebuild, cam swap, exhaust, etc., another $150 should be nothing especially considering how poorly the engine would run.
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i was wanting to get it dyno tuned so i would just wait until i thought it was broke in to get it tuned. how much is a mail order and who does them
I use www.pcmforless.com, while others have used Ion, Ed Wright, etc.
The best thing to do is to use a mail-order tune first, then if you feel so inclined you can have it dyno-tuned at a later date. When I fired up my 383 for the first time last year, I ran a mail-order tune for over a year before I actually had it dyno-tuned.
You don't want to break in a new motor with a different cam on the stock tune. Bad idea.
The best thing to do is to use a mail-order tune first, then if you feel so inclined you can have it dyno-tuned at a later date. When I fired up my 383 for the first time last year, I ran a mail-order tune for over a year before I actually had it dyno-tuned.
You don't want to break in a new motor with a different cam on the stock tune. Bad idea.
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I use www.pcmforless.com, while others have used Ion, Ed Wright, etc.
The best thing to do is to use a mail-order tune first, then if you feel so inclined you can have it dyno-tuned at a later date. When I fired up my 383 for the first time last year, I ran a mail-order tune for over a year before I actually had it dyno-tuned.
You don't want to break in a new motor with a different cam on the stock tune. Bad idea.
The best thing to do is to use a mail-order tune first, then if you feel so inclined you can have it dyno-tuned at a later date. When I fired up my 383 for the first time last year, I ran a mail-order tune for over a year before I actually had it dyno-tuned.
You don't want to break in a new motor with a different cam on the stock tune. Bad idea.
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If you want to blow up your brand new 355 go for it. If you have a tuner around you have a baseline done, as stated should cost no more than 150. And those untuned cars are cam only LS1s and generally the vids are just of them idling. Get a baseline/mail order to break it in, then get it fully tuned
The purpose of retuning in short is because when you change the cam and the subsequent valve timing events, you're opening up the capability to deliver more fuel (that's the point of changing the valvetrain to get more power). Unless you program the PCM it just assumes it's still stock and therefore cannot deliver the fuel needed. It will literally fight against itself.
/short version
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From: Valdosta Ga.
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Because they're impatient retards who want to just show off.
The purpose of retuning in short is because when you change the cam and the subsequent valve timing events, you're opening up the capability to deliver more fuel (that's the point of changing the valvetrain to get more power). Unless you program the PCM it just assumes it's still stock and therefore cannot deliver the fuel needed. It will literally fight against itself.
/short version
The purpose of retuning in short is because when you change the cam and the subsequent valve timing events, you're opening up the capability to deliver more fuel (that's the point of changing the valvetrain to get more power). Unless you program the PCM it just assumes it's still stock and therefore cannot deliver the fuel needed. It will literally fight against itself.
/short version
Break in the engine like your gonna drive it, dont baby it.
Get a tune. It's far safer that way, period. You obviously don't have a complete understanding of how to break in a motor or how the tuning aspect works, so consider this a blessing that we're giving you crap about it. If you want your new motor to last, break it in the right way with a correct tune.
maybe if you said that in the beginning people wouldnt be bustin your *****. it sounded like you were gonna drive around for a long time or just leave it like that untuned. just get a temperary mail order until you can get it on a dyno. whats the big deal? your the one that asked the question and people gave there opinions
Break in the engine like your gonna drive it, dont baby it.
Break in the engine like your gonna drive it, dont baby it.
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The LAST thing you want to do is let a fresh rebuild idle in the driveway with no load on it. You HAVE to go out and drive it, putting load on the motor, so that the rings properly seat, doing several 3/4 throttle runs consecutively.
Get a tune. It's far safer that way, period. You obviously don't have a complete understanding of how to break in a motor or how the tuning aspect works, so consider this a blessing that we're giving you crap about it. If you want your new motor to last, break it in the right way with a correct tune.
Right on.
Get a tune. It's far safer that way, period. You obviously don't have a complete understanding of how to break in a motor or how the tuning aspect works, so consider this a blessing that we're giving you crap about it. If you want your new motor to last, break it in the right way with a correct tune.
Right on.
Put it this way...like I mentioned (in my third post), I ran a mail-order tune for over a year before I had it dyno-tuned, and that INCLUDED breaking in the new motor. The very first pull on the dyno with the mail-order tune, the car put down 440whp. Bryan only managed to get another 15whp out of it, so his original tune was pretty much spot-on. I ran countless 11.2-11.1 passes with the mail order tune also.
I say you don't tune it blow it up and just burn a bunch of 100$ bills
Everyone is telling you to tune it man why not do it? if anything trailer it to the dyno to get it tuned. I mean even after bolt on's these cars benefit from a tune I'll be changing who I go to for my mail order tune when I get my stall but like they said don't risk it.....They have been there done that for the most part and won't steer you wrong lol
Everyone is telling you to tune it man why not do it? if anything trailer it to the dyno to get it tuned. I mean even after bolt on's these cars benefit from a tune I'll be changing who I go to for my mail order tune when I get my stall but like they said don't risk it.....They have been there done that for the most part and won't steer you wrong lol
