Look at this
01-05-2011, 06:58 PM
#21
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oh really so when you cut a flywheel the pressure plate is not in a diffrent place as an un-cut flywheel therefore not changing the geometry of the way the clutch fork goes on the TO bearing.
maybe you guys are right. i always put back in behind the flywheel what i take off the face of it.
maybe you guys are right. i always put back in behind the flywheel what i take off the face of it.
How is this change compensated? The hydraulic slave cylinders on the LT1's have a shitload of self-adjustability, unlike the internal-release-bearing POS's that the LS1's have, which need to be shimmed over time.
This same rule applies to resurfacing the flywheel. The hydraulics on an LT1 setup will self-adjust. It only takes roughly 3/8" of travel from the slave cylinder to disengage a stock LT1 clutch, and the slave cylinder has atleast a few inches of potential travel to work with.
01-05-2011, 07:29 PM
#22
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I called summit they say they will resent me a new one, I told them I hope its a better one, anyway i never new so much people had trouble with zoom/perfection clutches (made in china) btw
01-06-2011, 07:35 AM
#23
Even if you do shim the flywheel out after you resurface it, the total thickness of the clutch and flywheel changes as you drive the car. A stock organic friction disk is .310" thick brand new and will start slipping when it wears down to around .285". So this means throughout the life of the clutch, the throwout bearing position has been moved slightly, .025".
How is this change compensated? The hydraulic slave cylinders on the LT1's have a shitload of self-adjustability, unlike the internal-release-bearing POS's that the LS1's have, which need to be shimmed over time.
This same rule applies to resurfacing the flywheel. The hydraulics on an LT1 setup will self-adjust. It only takes roughly 3/8" of travel from the slave cylinder to disengage a stock LT1 clutch, and the slave cylinder has atleast a few inches of potential travel to work with.
How is this change compensated? The hydraulic slave cylinders on the LT1's have a shitload of self-adjustability, unlike the internal-release-bearing POS's that the LS1's have, which need to be shimmed over time.
This same rule applies to resurfacing the flywheel. The hydraulics on an LT1 setup will self-adjust. It only takes roughly 3/8" of travel from the slave cylinder to disengage a stock LT1 clutch, and the slave cylinder has atleast a few inches of potential travel to work with.
sir i very much realize that the slave is self adjusting. on an LT1 car with miles the clutch fork where it sits on the to bearing also wears down. between that and cutting the flywheel, if you dont shim it, it will put a more extreme angle on the clutch fork when pressed in bringing the fork closer to the edge of the pressure plate. if this angle is extreme enough it will rub on the edge of the pressure plate like in this pic.
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01-06-2011, 12:28 PM
#25
you guys are taking exchanges on these things? I would never touch another one of these clutches, I'll be getting my money back and staying far away from perfection
I lost mine getting off the highway and had to drive home with no clutch, then pull the trans out in NJ in the middle of January in the snow/rain. I'm not risking having to do it again.
I lost mine getting off the highway and had to drive home with no clutch, then pull the trans out in NJ in the middle of January in the snow/rain. I'm not risking having to do it again.
01-06-2011, 07:50 PM
#26
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sir i very much realize that the slave is self adjusting. on an LT1 car with miles the clutch fork where it sits on the to bearing also wears down. between that and cutting the flywheel, if you dont shim it, it will put a more extreme angle on the clutch fork when pressed in bringing the fork closer to the edge of the pressure plate. if this angle is extreme enough it will rub on the edge of the pressure plate like in this pic.
[/IMG]
[/IMG]The only reason why your fork was rubbing on the pressure plate is because it was worn out. If you hadn't wasted your time shimming the flywheel out, you would never have had the rubbing problem, smartass.
You already tried to tell the OP why his clutch came apart and you were wrong. But if you really wanna keep posting incorrect information, knock yourself out, I'm done giving a damn.
OP, sorry for taking over your thread. I am glad to hear they're sending you a new clutch. If your faith in Zoom has been shakin too much, you could always sell the new clutch instead of installing it on your car and buy a diffferent brand clutch.
01-07-2011, 11:47 AM
#27
never tryed to tell the op why his clutch came apart and im not gonna argue geometry with you on here. Thanks. your right 
i also talked in the above post about the worn clutch fork.
i also talked in the above post about the worn clutch fork.
