LT1-LT4 Modifications 1993-97 Gen II Small Block V8

Rebuilding LT1

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Old Jan 11, 2011 | 05:45 PM
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Default Rebuilding LT1

Ive decided to go with an Eagle Rotating assembly but can't decide on whether to get H beam or I beam rods. Which one is stronger? This isn't a high HP setup that I'll be running. I'll be shooting for 400 on motor but planing to run a 150+ shot.
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Old Jan 11, 2011 | 05:48 PM
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400HP on motor is nothing. Go with the i-beams. FWIW I'm putting out close to 575fwhp with Scat forged i-beams. H-beams are stronger but more expensive. Some of them also require more clearancing.
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Old Jan 11, 2011 | 10:33 PM
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Should I even mess with getting different than stock spec pistons? I'd like to raise the CR to 11:1, or should I just get the heads worked?
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Old Jan 12, 2011 | 12:02 AM
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Alright, I've decided to build a 355 that is stock spec but forged pistons and rods. Thanks for the input on rods man.
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Old Jan 12, 2011 | 01:08 AM
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Originally Posted by MichaelWade
Should I even mess with getting different than stock spec pistons? I'd like to raise the CR to 11:1, or should I just get the heads worked?
Don't forget it's not just the pistons that affect compression. Combustion chamber volume, deck height, and gasket thickness all play a part.

If you bore the cylinders (recommended) you're going to need oversized pistons anyway, so you might as well upgrade to a forged slug.

DEFINITELY DEFINITELY DEFINITELY get the heads ported (I recommend AI if you can afford it). That's where your power will be made along with a match spec'd cam.

11:1 is nice, but you can easily go a full point higher without a problem. 11.8:1 is a nice compression for a street motor.
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Old Jan 12, 2011 | 09:37 AM
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Be careful as to which eagle I beam it comes with!!! But, The Scat pro I beam with 7/16 arp capscrews is the strong one.
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Old Jan 12, 2011 | 10:22 AM
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Originally Posted by Corey @ Clayton Racing
Be careful as to which eagle I beam it comes with!!! But, The Scat pro I beam with 7/16 arp capscrews is the strong one.
Could you kindly post a part number please?
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Old Jan 12, 2011 | 11:40 AM
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Originally Posted by ADM
Could you kindly post a part number please?
part number for which one? The scat number is 2-ICR6000-7/16
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Old Jan 12, 2011 | 05:02 PM
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i would probably trust a set of factory powder rods over the china stuff. same goes for the crank. it has worked well for me so far.
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Old Jan 12, 2011 | 07:16 PM
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I will do H/C and a 150 shot. What about pistons? Should I get forged aluminum or OE. Also, if I did go back with OE crank and rods I should replace everything with ARP bolts right?
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Old Jan 12, 2011 | 08:01 PM
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Originally Posted by MichaelWade
I will do H/C and a 150 shot. What about pistons? Should I get forged aluminum or OE. Also, if I did go back with OE crank and rods I should replace everything with ARP bolts right?
balancing with arp rod bolts would be good to do. for pistons, you could run stockers or a lightweight forged piston. dont put some heavy ******* in there, and you dont need "nitrous pistons" for a 150 shot.
put it together correctly and dont spin the doo-doo out of it.
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Old Jan 13, 2011 | 01:57 PM
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Well, what would it take to safely spin it past like 6000rpm? I just want some extra security.
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Old Jan 13, 2011 | 08:52 PM
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a billet crank, carrillo rods, and some BME pistons would add some security above 6000 rpms.
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Old Jan 13, 2011 | 10:06 PM
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Thanks for all the help guys. I've decided to keep the stock crank and just upgrade the rods pistons and bolts. Thanks for all the input.
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