This past weekend I installed some pacesetter long tubes and ORY. i blocked off the AIR and EGR, also i changed the plugs while i was there. Well after i finished the job im getting what seems like the car is missing out.. I have researched this forum quite a bit and think maybe it sounds like i need a tune? but im also wondering if maybe it could be a spark plug wire getting hot or possibly maybe even moved and is touching the header so maybe this is the cause of my car running rough through the rpms? please help thanks !

 

More than likely it's a melted wire or something of that nature. It happened to me. Cylinder 5 that bastard. But I'd think you'd get a code.

 

lswho, that was my first guess and yes those back to plugs are a pain in the butt and very close to the header, i havent had a check engine or any type of code pop up yet tho?

 

Sometimes it won't throw a code. Check your plugs connections, make sure wires haven't melted and try to keep them off the headers. Make sure the EGR is blocked off and you can't hear air getting sucked in. You don't need a tune for headers.

 

thanks ill go back over the plug wires and go from there i suppose, thanks for your help, hopefully thats all it is..

 

Ummm....I'd reconsider that if I were you.
If you delete air/egr, you need to have them tuned out.
If you want to see any performance gains, get an optimal tune for the headers.
A mail order tune for something this minor will do.

 

He didn't ask for performance gains, he has "miss" problem, that has nothing to do with his current issue. Sorry.

 

anyone know what the gap is on spark plugs supposed to be at when running pacesetter longtubes?

 

Spark plugs could care less what kind of headers you have, but the stock gap is .050".

OP, sounds like you don't have a boot clicked all the way on the plug or you've got a wire crossed.

You should not need programming with headers for performance reasons, only to have the EGR/AIR tuned out. A tune helps but it is far from necessary.

And without knowing the OPs vehicle year, no one can make the judgment that a code will be set.

 

thanks for clearing that up lol...but yeah just on a side note i'm assuming you bought Tr55's as a lot of people do..but i bought TR55's at autozone they said they were pregapped to .055 but they were really .060..i dont know if this might've been the case when you changed your plugs. but mine ran like crap when i installed them at .060

 

You should never assume plugs are gapped properly out of the box, that's how you get into trouble!

 

Lol yeah i learned that the hard way...hopefully that's just the case with his problem

 

i gapped the plugs to .050 as they were not that as i was told they would be when i bought them, just went over and looked at the car none of the plug wires are lose are touching the header and i labeled every wire when i took them off so i would get them confused when putting them back on. im at a loss guys really frustrating i spend all this money and its not running right.. the car is a 95, and i used ac delco plugs that were suggested to me, which i dont think it should matter what kind of plug i put in it the car shouldnt be running poorly do to the brand of plug i wouldnt think ...

 

I have heard of some people having trouble with the metal plug boot heat shield on the back plugs causing a short or misfire of some sort. Never happened to me, but I have read about it.

 

On my new build i had a dreaded P0300 code. For me the #3 plug was fouled, the baseline tune somehow didnt get the injector pulse for #3 right and the #8 plug wire wasnt on all the way. Check the connections at the opti. At work we had a 2000 Mazda come in after getting some valve cover gaskets done running rough. Turns out 4 out of 6 plug wires were crossed, no codes were thrown. If you had a wire touching the header it would throw a P030x code

 

The ancient Chinese secret to that is to use a #8 wire, route it along the sheath (bolted to the block below the plugs) to the back of the block, loop it back towards #5 and connect. That way the boot is pointed to the back where there is plenty of room.

 

Yupers ^^^^ X2

 

I actually just routed another wire aimed backwards like you said and over the top of the primary along the valve cover. No issues since. It's been years now.

 

thanks for your help guys, dubga you mentioned something about the metal boots over the plug wires on the back two cylinders would u guys suggest maybe taking them off, i assumed this would possibly cause the plug wires to get melted.. ?

 

When I installed my headers I burnt the 2nd one back on passenger side twice. And since it is under the header i couldn't see it arcing