LT1-LT4 Modifications 1993-97 Gen II Small Block V8

Roadmaster w/ LT1 having ignition issues

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Old Jan 24, 2011 | 05:15 PM
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ThumperNC24's Avatar
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Default Roadmaster w/ LT1 having ignition issues

Hi all,
My friend has a 1995 Buick Roadmaster with an LT1. On Saturday the car stalled out and wouldn't start until the engine cooled down a little, but then still ran fine. Prior to it stalling there were no performance issues, etc.

Based on the symptoms (and the fact that a day later the car ran great until it came up to temperature and held for a few minutes at which point it stalled out and could not be restarted) we are assuming it is a problem with the Opti-spark. The shop that he took it too (the one that replaced the opti. 4 months ago) said it is a problem with the ignition module (or some other external module) and that the "Cap and rotor" are fine and that they replaced the "cap and rotor" last time, not this module.

We think they're full of **** and should replace the opti. on their dime.

What do you think?

Thanks for any/all help in advance!
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Old Jan 25, 2011 | 07:16 PM
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ss.slp.ls1's Avatar
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From: Orange County, CA
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Originally Posted by ThumperNC24
Hi all,
My friend has a 1995 Buick Roadmaster with an LT1. On Saturday the car stalled out and wouldn't start until the engine cooled down a little, but then still ran fine. Prior to it stalling there were no performance issues, etc.

Based on the symptoms (and the fact that a day later the car ran great until it came up to temperature and held for a few minutes at which point it stalled out and could not be restarted) we are assuming it is a problem with the Opti-spark. The shop that he took it too (the one that replaced the opti. 4 months ago) said it is a problem with the ignition module (or some other external module) and that the "Cap and rotor" are fine and that they replaced the "cap and rotor" last time, not this module.

We think they're full of **** and should replace the opti. on their dime.

What do you think?

Thanks for any/all help in advance!
They actually have a valid point. The ICM has been known to cause the very issues your buddy is experiencing. One quick way to help verify is to unbolt the coil/ICM module from the head, use the stock double stud bolts and bolt them back into the head, then put the coil/ICM module back onto the studs and use nuts to secure it. That will keep the ICM spaced off the the head and it should (hopefully) run cooler and allow your car to run longer without having the stalling occur or it could fix the problem completely.

Here is a picture, compliments of Shoebox:

http://shbox.com/1/ICM_cooling.jpg

If it seems to help, but does not fix the problem entirely, then get a new ICM, but keep it spaced off the head and you should be problem free.
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Old Jan 25, 2011 | 08:10 PM
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Agreed that the ICM is often at fault for "dies once warms up" symptoms.
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