Engine removal and cam question.
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From: Morinville, Alberta, Canada
Engine removal and cam question. 97 lt1 camaro 6 speed.
Im in the middle of removing the engine out the bottom of the car. Minor little things left before lifting the body. The question i have is for the ac lines that go up over the fender to the evap. block near the firewall. The block that houses the 2 lines, theres what appears to be two allen head screws holding that on.
If i remove those two screws, will i be able to remove the lines from that block and lay them on the engine to lift the body?
in the top left corner near the firewall for reference.
The other question i had was about the cam. I have a 228/236 .592/.592 110lsa cam in the car as we speak on a factory bottom end. The low end torque is gone and the cam surges a fair bit. Whether thats cam or my tuner, i cant tell for sure but either way the car is a DD during summer. I want the low end torque back. I dont want to spin it past 6200rpm max. It will rarely see a track anyways.
With that in mind i was spec'd out a cam (If you are reading this, im not going behind your back, just want some first hand expierences with it haha. i dont want to change this cam again haha) with the following specs
222/226 .571/.565 111 LSA . I want to know if anyone uses this cam and how it would be as fair as a DD cam goes.
Thanks
Im in the middle of removing the engine out the bottom of the car. Minor little things left before lifting the body. The question i have is for the ac lines that go up over the fender to the evap. block near the firewall. The block that houses the 2 lines, theres what appears to be two allen head screws holding that on.
If i remove those two screws, will i be able to remove the lines from that block and lay them on the engine to lift the body?
in the top left corner near the firewall for reference.
The other question i had was about the cam. I have a 228/236 .592/.592 110lsa cam in the car as we speak on a factory bottom end. The low end torque is gone and the cam surges a fair bit. Whether thats cam or my tuner, i cant tell for sure but either way the car is a DD during summer. I want the low end torque back. I dont want to spin it past 6200rpm max. It will rarely see a track anyways.
With that in mind i was spec'd out a cam (If you are reading this, im not going behind your back, just want some first hand expierences with it haha. i dont want to change this cam again haha) with the following specs
222/226 .571/.565 111 LSA . I want to know if anyone uses this cam and how it would be as fair as a DD cam goes.
Thanks
You shouldn't need to discharge the AC system or mess with the expansion valve for an out-the-bottom pull. Just unbolt the compressor from the acc bracket and support it out of the way with a bungee cord...
Can't speak to the cam, maybe someone else has used it.
Can't speak to the cam, maybe someone else has used it.
Launching!
Joined: Oct 2010
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I dont dont think i have to but just remember the discharge the AC, when I removed my engine I just removed the line's behind the compressor. I kinda a difficult to get to but you can do it just a 13mm bolt if i remember good.
About cams i dunno alot.
About cams i dunno alot.
Thread Starter
TECH Apprentice
iTrader: (3)
Joined: Jul 2008
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From: Morinville, Alberta, Canada
The ac has been discharged already anyhow, so now im just looking for the easiest way to get everything out in one piece preferably. If the lines remove from the block there, which is what id like to know, then ill unhook them there and unhook the condenser and be good to go.
According to the hanes manual if the screw is removed, it only talks about one, the lines will come out. The book is so damn vague though i wanted to make sure first.
According to the hanes manual if the screw is removed, it only talks about one, the lines will come out. The book is so damn vague though i wanted to make sure first.
You can either unscrew each line or the 2 alan bolts, either way the whole thing detaches from the car and you can leave it with the motor when you hoist the body. I personally would leave the valve block alone and just unscrew the lines from the valve with a crescent wrench, done. I forget what lines attach to the condensor, though. You may have to detach one of those too.
Not a cam expert but specs look good for stock bottom end. I know you can probably stand a little more duration, but you may not need it with that much lift. I'm sure you'll get your cam questions answered shortly.
Not a cam expert but specs look good for stock bottom end. I know you can probably stand a little more duration, but you may not need it with that much lift. I'm sure you'll get your cam questions answered shortly.
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With stockish gearing, torque converter, and compression ratio, I think you'd be better stepping back even further on the cam. If 228 is unacceptable, 222 will probably be marginal. Why not make it more of a sure thing. Generalizing, a 228 cam in a 350/355 will want 11.5 to 12.0 CR to drive well, a 222...11.0 to 11.5, ..
I'd leave the 228 in there, pull the heads and mill them, and run a .015" shim head gasket. Or, another way to get back some low end would be to advance the cam about 4 degrees.
I'd leave the 228 in there, pull the heads and mill them, and run a .015" shim head gasket. Or, another way to get back some low end would be to advance the cam about 4 degrees.