is this suspension ok for daily driver
is this suspension ok for daily driver Would I have good handling with these parts and still be able to launch on the street or track or am I not choosing parts correctly. I want great handling on the street too.
http://www.umiperformance.com/catalo...roducts_id=149
http://www.umiperformance.com/catalo...roducts_id=142
http://www.bmrsuspension.com/index.c...&productid=342
http://www.umiperformance.com/catalo...roducts_id=149
http://www.umiperformance.com/catalo...roducts_id=142
http://www.bmrsuspension.com/index.c...&productid=342
I wouldn't get the k-member, its a lot of work to install and they aren't really that cheap. Unless you get the lightweight spindles and drag breaks then your kind of selling yourself short on the whole setup. I run all those components on the street, but of all the items I installed the full k-member did the least and cost the most. If you are dead set on the k-member don't worry about buying the upper a arms, since they only save weight. The k-member and the lower a-arms at least make working on the motor and changing plugs easy.
Last edited by fex77k; Jan 28, 2011 at 02:53 PM.
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Verdad Gallardo What do you want to do with the car, corner or launch. Your suspension and wheel choice will decide how well they do both.
Get all of it and you'll have a great handling car that will still hook at the track, the only thing I would change is I'd get the UMI 3 point weld in sfcs and get some lca relocation brackets also they'll help you hook once the car is lowered.
UMI 3pt weld ins all day. LCA's too. Poly TA mount. If you want it to handle real good shocks, springs, sways.
If you want it to 60ft. Shocks, springs, Tq arm. lose front sway bar + brackets. and do weighloss.
If you want it to 60ft. Shocks, springs, Tq arm. lose front sway bar + brackets. and do weighloss.
Bolt on SFCs can have the holes elongate over time. Welded in doesnt allow that.
I have heard that the stock upper A arms weigh exactly the same as the tubular upper A arms, so it doesnt save any weight, just looks cool and is stronger.
I have heard that the stock upper A arms weigh exactly the same as the tubular upper A arms, so it doesnt save any weight, just looks cool and is stronger.
Getting bolt ins also allow you to install them in your garage if you dont have a welder. Might save you some $$ from having to take the car in somewhere. You can always weld the bolt ins once there installed. Plus you will have two bolts holding it in place along with a weld. i would do the 2nd and 3rd link before the first. i dont really like the shock choice in the 3rd link but thats just me.
the 2nd and 3rd link both have the panhard bar. so you might just want to buy the LCA's seperatly.
the 2nd and 3rd link both have the panhard bar. so you might just want to buy the LCA's seperatly.
Last edited by Badazz 97 TA; Jan 30, 2011 at 11:15 AM.
Thanks a lot. I asked about suspension bc everyone told me to do suspension and rear end first. so ill do just that. I'm doing to go with the bolt on sfc and have it welded later on. Ill ditch the upper a arms. And just get the regular kmember and lcas separately
As said make sure to get poly ended everything... i bought some used umi lca's with rod ends and they are loud and squeel if the cars sits outside they tend to rust.Poly will be quiet like stock and wont rust over if the car sits out for a day.
