Let Me Introduce Myself
01-28-2011, 10:16 AM
#21
On The Tree
Thread Starter
Do your thing bro......I understand the GN stuff I worked for Conleys Performance Plus in Tx and we had GREAT success in going fast. Welcome to the board. I would say you will have an easier time in the FI section but they are so PRO LS but there is alot of common ground..
01-28-2011, 10:19 AM
#22
This car and skinnies car both have the 94-95PCM so you don't have to burn chips to change the tune, you just have to reflash which makes changes alot easier/quicker. I am swapping my setup from n2o over to turbo also and found a Fast DFI setup with wiring harness, datalogger, 02 sensor etc... $850 so thats the route I am going along with an 88mm turbo on E85. Later
Look up this guy on here 98Z28CobraKiller, runs a LS engine but the management like you said works on geo metro's to lambo's. He is the man when it comes to all of these different setups and I consider him one of the few home built gods. Currently his street car/driver is a 8sec quarter mile car and he seems very friendly and will respect your opinion on what you want.
Also you talked about going at your heads and intake with the old grinder. Hit me up and I will give you my findings and proven at the track porting tips for LT1 intakes. I have helped gain over 1mph-1.5mph in quarter over well known ported stock casting by using epoxy/welding in the right place's on the factory intake manifolds.
Welcome to the tech and cant wait to see your build come alive, also congrats on the baby boy. My son turned 1yo in December so I understand the budget choice's your wanting to make.
01-28-2011, 10:59 AM
#23
On The Tree
Thread Starter
nice stock ta..... i have no fear of epoxy floors and pencil grinders,lol. ive seen where alot of mustang guys are having success with a MAP clamp, or the inline check valve from vortech, then useing a FMU (adjustable boost refrenced fuel regulator)...
01-28-2011, 11:14 AM
#25
As far as porting DO NOT GASKET MATCH
a LT1 intake, use some of these Idea's that I put into this intake and you should be rocking out. https://ls1tech.com/forums/lt1-lt4-m...e-results.html
Also look at this Edelbrock porting pops and I have done and you will see the bits and grinders we use. None of those intake ports were hand polished just very soft touch of a double cut and steady hands.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/lt1-lt4-m...we-ported.html
As for a pencil grinder they are nice but a quality bit in 1/4" shank in a double cut will be your best friend. Alumacuts work good for 58MM opening but are to agressive for the runners, go with a high quality double cut carbide $$$ about $20-$25 a bit. I never used my pencil grinder for anything except 2 stroke dirtbikes and banshee's
they just are to jumpy and dont move enough aluminum to work well on a LT1 casting. Also use a light squirt of machine oil while porting direct on your bit as it will really let it stay cool and cut precise, plus your bits will last 10 times as long no kidding about that. My Great Great grandfather, great grandfather, and grandfather were all master pattern makers that worked in the same aluminum foundry and passed there love of aluminum work down to father and I. My father and grandfather are still alive and Im grateful for what gramps and my dad have brought me up on learning what aluminum likes.
All of these port jobs were done by my father and me (im 29yo so still young buck) and we take great pride in this. I hope this inspires many people to try porting themselves.
01-28-2011, 12:02 PM
#27
On The Tree
Thread Starter
were gonna stick with the stock ecm, worst case scenario ill go maft pro. heaps cheaper than complete stand alone and ive dealt with it before with GNs in the past.
01-28-2011, 12:12 PM
#29
On The Tree
Thread Starter
This is want you need if your sticking to the 93 computer. And don't move on to another forum as there are guys on here that are far from nice but they are just letting you know the path they have already been down on a LT1.
As far as porting DO NOT GASKET MATCH a LT1 intake, use some of these Idea's that I put into this intake and you should be rocking out.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/lt1-lt4-m...e-results.html
Also look at this Edelbrock porting pops and I have done and you will see the bits and grinders we use. None of those intake ports were hand polished just very soft touch of a double cut and steady hands.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/lt1-lt4-m...we-ported.html
As for a pencil grinder they are nice but a quality bit in 1/4" shank in a double cut will be your best friend. Alumacuts work good for 58MM opening but are to agressive for the runners, go with a high quality double cut carbide $$$ about $20-$25 a bit. I never used my pencil grinder for anything except 2 stroke dirtbikes and banshee's they just are to jumpy and dont move enough aluminum to work well on a LT1 casting.
Also use a light squirt of machine oil while porting direct on your bit as it will really let it stay cool and cut precise, plus your bits will last 10 times as long no kidding about that. My Great Great grandfather, great grandfather, and grandfather were all master pattern makers that worked in the same aluminum foundry and passed there love of aluminum work down to father and I. My father and grandfather are still alive and Im grateful for what gramps and my dad have brought me up on learning what aluminum likes.
All of these port jobs were done by my father and me (im 29yo so still young buck) and we take great pride in this. I hope this inspires many people to try porting themselves.
As far as porting DO NOT GASKET MATCH
a LT1 intake, use some of these Idea's that I put into this intake and you should be rocking out. https://ls1tech.com/forums/lt1-lt4-m...e-results.html
Also look at this Edelbrock porting pops and I have done and you will see the bits and grinders we use. None of those intake ports were hand polished just very soft touch of a double cut and steady hands.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/lt1-lt4-m...we-ported.html
As for a pencil grinder they are nice but a quality bit in 1/4" shank in a double cut will be your best friend. Alumacuts work good for 58MM opening but are to agressive for the runners, go with a high quality double cut carbide $$$ about $20-$25 a bit. I never used my pencil grinder for anything except 2 stroke dirtbikes and banshee's
they just are to jumpy and dont move enough aluminum to work well on a LT1 casting. Also use a light squirt of machine oil while porting direct on your bit as it will really let it stay cool and cut precise, plus your bits will last 10 times as long no kidding about that. My Great Great grandfather, great grandfather, and grandfather were all master pattern makers that worked in the same aluminum foundry and passed there love of aluminum work down to father and I. My father and grandfather are still alive and Im grateful for what gramps and my dad have brought me up on learning what aluminum likes.
All of these port jobs were done by my father and me (im 29yo so still young buck) and we take great pride in this. I hope this inspires many people to try porting themselves.
01-28-2011, 11:25 PM
#30
Staging Lane
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Gonna weigh in briefly.
The later LT1 PCM is MAF based and takes to being boosted easily as a result. There was a 2-bar adapted software set for that PCM, but I never had the chance to try it. Converting your car to the later PCM would be a relative po-boy method of control.
Another approach would be to use an FMU or an aux injector or 2 on your current setup. FMU's and AICs have been around for years and work fine. With proper selection of components would work fine.
Any of the aftermarket controllers would obviously work fine, some are cheaper than others. Classic FAST, old-school DFI, and megasquirt would be the least expensive of these I think.
But, converting the stock ECM for 2bar or 3bar is not too simple. You could probably make it run pretty well by just fiddling around with the calibrations. The optimum solution would take some code rewriting. Not impossible but to make it run well is not a small pile of work. Resolution is not really an issue at 2 bar, and 3 bar would run fine IMO.
Just my .02$
Bob
The later LT1 PCM is MAF based and takes to being boosted easily as a result. There was a 2-bar adapted software set for that PCM, but I never had the chance to try it. Converting your car to the later PCM would be a relative po-boy method of control.
Another approach would be to use an FMU or an aux injector or 2 on your current setup. FMU's and AICs have been around for years and work fine. With proper selection of components would work fine.
Any of the aftermarket controllers would obviously work fine, some are cheaper than others. Classic FAST, old-school DFI, and megasquirt would be the least expensive of these I think.
But, converting the stock ECM for 2bar or 3bar is not too simple. You could probably make it run pretty well by just fiddling around with the calibrations. The optimum solution would take some code rewriting. Not impossible but to make it run well is not a small pile of work. Resolution is not really an issue at 2 bar, and 3 bar would run fine IMO.
Just my .02$
Bob
01-29-2011, 02:22 PM
#32
Welcome, and hopefully you stick around. I'd love to see the build and info that you're talking about. Wherever you go, online or off, you're going to have some people give you advice on stuff...sometimes they are right, sometimes they are wrong.
Either way, it sounds like you'll definately have some great pointers for people during and after your build is done. At the very least, maybe you'll spark some innovation and spread some knowledge in some fellow car guys on here, that's never a bad thing.
Remember, the information and discussions that take place on here might help out somebody years down the road.
Either way, it sounds like you'll definately have some great pointers for people during and after your build is done. At the very least, maybe you'll spark some innovation and spread some knowledge in some fellow car guys on here, that's never a bad thing.
Remember, the information and discussions that take place on here might help out somebody years down the road.
