OP is wanting to convert from OBDII to OBDI. All that is necessary, and that has already been posted, is the correct KS and PCM with correct trans or at least have PCM flashed for correct trans. This is what I was told to do when I did my conversion years ago (since changed back to OBDII for smog check reasons), it worked and that is all that is needed.

 

I know, I'm doing the same thing. But what I've read in this thread is different from what I've read elsewhere including shoebox's site. Funny thing though, I've never seen an actual write up and nothing at all about the actual wiring change itself. Just that it has to be done.

I thought that's why Ion's conversion is so expensive, guess not. Maybe I'll just find a PCM and knock sensor instead of the $250 version.

 

Translation : "Im being a parrot because I have no actual experience."

 

 

No wiring change necessary. It's all plug and play. Ion's conversion is probably reworking the circuitry in the PCM to accommodate an OBDII KS.
Right out of the horse's keyboard...

 

Which is what mine has. I'm still running my original stock knock sensor. Swap either computer is all I have to do.

Like I said, its been like that since I put the 95 computer in back in 98.

 

So your saying you can just throw in a OBD 1 pcm, and a KM from an OBD 1 vehicle?
How much are the KMs?

 

Are you really asking this question after 5 people have already answered it in this thread alone?

You don't want the knock Module, you want the knock Sensor. It's p/n 10456126 and it goes for right around $50 from Summit.

 

I know that's all his conversion is. I was talking more price point vs. work as opposed to what his conversion does or doesn't necessitate.

 

Better run and tell Shoebox he's wrong with clever pictures! Don't stop to get laid, it won't happen, just go tell him!

 

Parrot.

 

Blue *****

 

Wish I was 13 years old again when fighting on the internet was the cool thing to do.

Don't you two have something to do?

 

Awfully hypocritical post.

 

I mean someone means so much to you on the internet that you took the time to put them in your sig when you don't know them personally thats quite cute

 

Just did this on my 97 z-28 Info is in my sig. Like everyone has said...

Change the PCM: disconnect Battery, Unbolt PCM bracket from car, pull OBd2 pcm out, unplug the 4 large connectors on the OBd2 pcm, set OBd2 PCM aside.

Pick up the obd1 pcm: Plug the 4 large connectors into the obd1 pcm, shove the pcm back in the car, bolt it back in.

Change the knock sensor: On the passenger side of the engine down by the starter unplug the sinle wire from the OBD2 knock sensor, Now unscreew the OBD2 knock sensor from the engine block, coolant will leak out if the cooling system is full, screew the new ob1 knock sensor back into the engine and tighten, plug knock sensor wire back in to knock sensor. reconnect battery

Now load your tune.

Now drive and have fun.

DONE

Mine runs great and I was able to load my tune and data log with this cable http://www.moates.net/aldu1-and-cabl....html?cPath=64
I used madz28/ madtuner for the tune. He sent me tunercat link to read and write the tune to the pcm, I used tss datamaster 4.0 to do the data log and then send data logs to madtuner for him to check it. All finished, car runs great, runs better than the obd2 tune I had done originally by someone else.

 

Heck yes i am asking, or else i would have just went and bought a KM!

Thanks, now i get it

 

I didn't realize my signature is so important I need to reserve it for close friends and/or family.

It took 20 seconds to do that, by the way.

 

I think I should change mine

 

Lawhead, ANY pcm out of ANY 94 or 95 LT1 powered is the same, $40 at u-pull n pay. The one in my car right now came out of a 94 roadmaster, same part number as mine. If you get one out of a manual car, give me a shout and I can come change it for ya, and anything else, egr and all that other stuff.