do you plan on spraying?

 

didnt say 3k was my rock solid budget, just that id like to stay under that for a short block. most 396 rotating assemblies im seeing run from 1700 to about 1900 in most cases which leaves me another 11-1300 to machine the block i already have and balance the rotating assembly more accurately. i think i can come close on a 3k budget. although ive never set out with a budget and been able to stay under it. always go into overkill mode and overbuild, but at least im trying a budget....

 

Man, i dont know what it is about machine shops here...every one i ask looks for about 4600 for a shortblock >< Cheaper to go with victory or golen

 

Go with either a 383 or 396, like you said the 408 would be pieced together and it really wouldnt be much power gain if any.

 

Unless or until someone builds us a block capable of a 4.125 or larger bore a 396 would be the biggest one I'd do personally. The 383 is the most common and there are plenty of rotating assemblies available both cast and forged cranks, also unless you have a monster set of heads I'd just do a 383.

 

Just to give you an idea, My 383 had to be rebuilt, replaced the crank, pistons (No Rods) and cam + machine work = $5,000

 

daaaaaannnnnng

 

well i was origianally going to go with a 399 but i was concerned about all that extra stroke spinning in the stock block.....if i was staying in the low to mid 7000 rpm range it would have been ok IMO....but knowing i would see 8000+ i was afraid of the extra strain on the block......i went with a 385...3.75" x 4.040 bore

 

I chose the 396 route. Mostly because the crank and machine work was going to cost the same whether I bought a 3.875 crank or a 3.75 crank. And actually, my motor ended up being 392 ci because the block only needed to be bored .010 over.

 

How in the hell would the 408 be "pieced together"?

Damn people need to get out and actually try things and talk to people instead of being bound by the confines of the internet.

A 408 requires no extra clearancing as compared to a 396. It also requires no more trick or expensive parts than a 396...

It's all readily available quality parts that will drop right into an LT1 block. Its been done, nothing special.

Dont know where the myth made its way into Ltx folklore but it's not a big ******* deal.

 

Yeah Reggie! Gregrob happens to have a 408 himself! He got off the internet and built one so he ...wait.

Isn't the block sometimes a bit thin and needing sleeves to run that big of a bore?

 

A 408 would use the same bore as a 355, 383, or 396. So...no.

 

Wonder what I'm thinking about then. I know how to get 383, but the others I have no idea. Never paid enough attention.

Edit: got it.

 

355 ci = 4.030 bore x 3.48" stroke (stock)

383 ci = 4.030 bore x 3.75" stroke

396 ci = 4.030 bore x 3.875" stroke

408 ci = 4.030 bore x 4.0 stroke

Formula to figure ci displacement:

bore x bore x stroke x number of cyl x .7854 = displacement

 

355.....3.48 Stroke 4.030 Bore
383.....3.75 x 4.030
396.....3.875 x 4.030

408 I'm not sure how its done with an LT1???
im assuming jamming a 4" stroke in the block with a 4.030 bore???

cause theres no way your boring the stock block to 4.125"

 

haha uu beat me to the post colin ^ lol

 

Its not "jamming" it in there. It's called Honda rod journals. Readily avaiable in a 4" crank from Eagle / Callies...

 

You are so ******* clueless.

 

Yes, I readily admitted to not knowing about a 408. I don't care either. I'll never do it. I use my brain for remembering important things.

 

yea im allset with using honda rod journals on a motor i plan on running at high rpm for more than a short distance.....