What else do us LTx guys need?
TECH Fanatic
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 1,025
Likes: 1
From: CT/NJ
Best seller: "How to fix your POS LT1 for dummies" book
Include chapters for
1. cheapest ever optispark
2. Ignition wire routing- wrap 'em around the steering shaft
3. Sawzall LS1 lid swap
4. How to diagnose rod knock with a screwdriver and fix it with your belt
5. Sawzall fuel pump replacement
6. Sawzall weight reduction
7. Duct tape door skin repair
8. Rigging your window regulator with a coat hanger
9. How to bathtub caulk your t-tops shut
10. Bungee cord trans mount repair
Include chapters for
1. cheapest ever optispark
2. Ignition wire routing- wrap 'em around the steering shaft
3. Sawzall LS1 lid swap
4. How to diagnose rod knock with a screwdriver and fix it with your belt
5. Sawzall fuel pump replacement
6. Sawzall weight reduction
7. Duct tape door skin repair
8. Rigging your window regulator with a coat hanger
9. How to bathtub caulk your t-tops shut
10. Bungee cord trans mount repair
Best seller: "How to fix your POS LT1 for dummies" book
Include chapters for
1. cheapest ever optispark
2. Ignition wire routing- wrap 'em around the steering shaft
3. Sawzall LS1 lid swap
4. How to diagnose rod knock with a screwdriver and fix it with your belt
5. Sawzall fuel pump replacement
6. Sawzall weight reduction
7. Duct tape door skin repair
8. Rigging your window regulator with a coat hanger
9. How to bathtub caulk your t-tops shut
10. Bungee cord trans mount repair
Include chapters for
1. cheapest ever optispark
2. Ignition wire routing- wrap 'em around the steering shaft
3. Sawzall LS1 lid swap
4. How to diagnose rod knock with a screwdriver and fix it with your belt
5. Sawzall fuel pump replacement
6. Sawzall weight reduction
7. Duct tape door skin repair
8. Rigging your window regulator with a coat hanger
9. How to bathtub caulk your t-tops shut
10. Bungee cord trans mount repair
I'm innocent so far, but I plan on #5 in the future. My pump doesn't even need replacing, but I like the idea of a neat/clean/sealed access door under the carpet. Great pics of that on here. Done with a cut-off wheel instead of a sawzall though.
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 3,452
Likes: 3
From: somewhere that doesn't get snow
LOL the only duct tape on my door skin is on the back side of the hole where the handle bezel screw goes. a body shop bore the hole out too big and the screw wouldn't tighten. i actually got a piece of metal that the screw would grab into and glued it to the back of the door skin but i didn't trust the glue so i stuck a piece of duct tape on it and then poked a small hole where the screw was to go through. you can't see it even with the door panel off.
Best seller: "How to fix your POS LT1 for dummies" book
Include chapters for
1. cheapest ever optispark
2. Ignition wire routing- wrap 'em around the steering shaft
3. Sawzall LS1 lid swap
4. How to diagnose rod knock with a screwdriver and fix it with your belt
5. Sawzall fuel pump replacement
6. Sawzall weight reduction
7. Duct tape door skin repair
8. Rigging your window regulator with a coat hanger
9. How to bathtub caulk your t-tops shut
10. Bungee cord trans mount repair
Include chapters for
1. cheapest ever optispark
2. Ignition wire routing- wrap 'em around the steering shaft
3. Sawzall LS1 lid swap
4. How to diagnose rod knock with a screwdriver and fix it with your belt
5. Sawzall fuel pump replacement
6. Sawzall weight reduction
7. Duct tape door skin repair
8. Rigging your window regulator with a coat hanger
9. How to bathtub caulk your t-tops shut
10. Bungee cord trans mount repair
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Verdad Gallardo LOL the only duct tape on my door skin is on the back side of the hole where the handle bezel screw goes. a body shop bore the hole out too big and the screw wouldn't tighten. i actually got a piece of metal that the screw would grab into and glued it to the back of the door skin but i didn't trust the glue so i stuck a piece of duct tape on it and then poked a small hole where the screw was to go through. you can't see it even with the door panel off.
I had the cc503 in my old cam only setup and loved it but compared to the hotcam and cc306 it's a pretty uncommonly used cam
On The Tree
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 124
Likes: 0
So what's the general consensus on the alternator relocation while keeping the power steering. I've lost all my ac parts and would love to get rid of that massive bracket on the side of the engine. I wouldn't mind loosing the whole power steering system but everyone says unless you run skinnies you need the power steering.
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 3,452
Likes: 3
From: somewhere that doesn't get snow
i took the screw to ace hardware and they found me this little square metal piece that had a small hole and 2 metal tabs that would grab the screw threads. after trying to glue it to the front of the door panel (on the front it wouldn't allow the screw to tighten enough) i glued it to the back of the panel and used the duct tape as more of a reinforcement for the glue since i couldn't physically hold the tab in place in the event the glue broke free. i've taken the door handle bezel back off once or twice and it seems to be holding fine. like i said, short of noticing the hole is bigger, you can't see the metal tab or the duct tape as they are on the back side of the hole. with the handle bezel in place you can't tell at all as i'm still utilizing the stock screw.
So what's the general consensus on the alternator relocation while keeping the power steering. I've lost all my ac parts and would love to get rid of that massive bracket on the side of the engine. I wouldn't mind loosing the whole power steering system but everyone says unless you run skinnies you need the power steering.
I have a low mount alt setup that keeps the PS. Took the AC off and mounted the Alt there and put a pulley on the top Alt mount, I have spin 7k rpms for 2 years and no problems. But I want to switch to a low mount setup and a low mounted drivers side PS pump to keep the top of the motor clean. I like the UD pulley idea, one pulley runs the Alt and the other runs the PS
Now how about a converted super vic or vic jr? I'm planning a single plane swap and was going to get the vic e and have it cleaned up and then 860 elbow and monoblade.
I'm deffinately interested in the opti delete and higher RPM capabilities on the stock PCM, but I'm still planning on the 24x LS1 kit. My opti took a **** right before I parked it for the winter and I don't want to buy another one, this last one didn't even have 3k miles on it
what a waste of $$$
Now how about a converted super vic or vic jr? I'm planning a single plane swap and was going to get the vic e and have it cleaned up and then 860 elbow and monoblade.
I'm deffinately interested in the opti delete and higher RPM capabilities on the stock PCM, but I'm still planning on the 24x LS1 kit. My opti took a **** right before I parked it for the winter and I don't want to buy another one, this last one didn't even have 3k miles on it
what a waste of $$$ 
Far as the opti, in almost 11 years on 4 cars I have never had an opti failure, did heads and cam on the sedan almost 6 years ago and began turning it 6500+ and for the last 2 years have been tickling 7000 on a bone stock GM opti with loctite.
If you are killing optis regularly it would be a good idea to figure out WHY rather than to blindly blame the opti. Too many of us use it troublefree to blame it.
There are some really good ideas here, hope to see them being produced soon. I cant think of anything that hanst already been mentioned but if I do ill put it in this thread.
I guess I am the only one, but I'd like to see a set-up that kept the A/C and P/S in the stock location, but moved the Alt down to the driver's side in a low or mid-mount position (using underdrive pulley piggyback as well) just to unclutter the top of the engine and give more valve cover clearance. My car is my daily transportation and it's too hot in GA for no A/C.