DD cam
1500 .....yes. never tried it in 1st gear though. 2nd,3rd,4th just fine.
Regardless, I've driven bigger cams than this in 6 spd cars without thinking there was an issue. Maybe I just know when to use the clutch ????
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From: Morinville, Alberta, Canada
Didn't expect this thread to get this big haha.
Id really prefer not to change gears but if i have to i will. I also don't want to be spinning to 6400-6600 rpm all the time either which is another concern i have with my current cam.
The heads are off the car and its pretty damn clear its running fairly rich as EVERYTHING in the chambers are black.. Im going to take them in to get flow tested and pressure checked and then make a decision from there.
Im going to go out on a limb and say the majority of the driveability issues probably was the tune. But again without a unlimited bank account and no decent tuners that know LT1's around here, im not going to let him learn on my car and rape me in the process.
I love the way the car feels with the power it has, but i honestly almost wish i left well enough alone and left it the way it was before i did the top end. :S
Id really prefer not to change gears but if i have to i will. I also don't want to be spinning to 6400-6600 rpm all the time either which is another concern i have with my current cam.
The heads are off the car and its pretty damn clear its running fairly rich as EVERYTHING in the chambers are black.. Im going to take them in to get flow tested and pressure checked and then make a decision from there.
Im going to go out on a limb and say the majority of the driveability issues probably was the tune. But again without a unlimited bank account and no decent tuners that know LT1's around here, im not going to let him learn on my car and rape me in the process.
I love the way the car feels with the power it has, but i honestly almost wish i left well enough alone and left it the way it was before i did the top end. :S
Didn't expect this thread to get this big haha.
Id really prefer not to change gears but if i have to i will. I also don't want to be spinning to 6400-6600 rpm all the time either which is another concern i have with my current cam.
The heads are off the car and its pretty damn clear its running fairly rich as EVERYTHING in the chambers are black.. Im going to take them in to get flow tested and pressure checked and then make a decision from there.
Im going to go out on a limb and say the majority of the driveability issues probably was the tune. But again without a unlimited bank account and no decent tuners that know LT1's around here, im not going to let him learn on my car and rape me in the process.
I love the way the car feels with the power it has, but i honestly almost wish i left well enough alone and left it the way it was before i did the top end. :S
Id really prefer not to change gears but if i have to i will. I also don't want to be spinning to 6400-6600 rpm all the time either which is another concern i have with my current cam.
The heads are off the car and its pretty damn clear its running fairly rich as EVERYTHING in the chambers are black.. Im going to take them in to get flow tested and pressure checked and then make a decision from there.
Im going to go out on a limb and say the majority of the driveability issues probably was the tune. But again without a unlimited bank account and no decent tuners that know LT1's around here, im not going to let him learn on my car and rape me in the process.
I love the way the car feels with the power it has, but i honestly almost wish i left well enough alone and left it the way it was before i did the top end. :S
Don't get me wrong, its daily driveable and it makes great power, but since I truly do daily drive my car as my only form of transportation having to deal with this gets old after a few years. I miss having a car that drives like stock that you can lug around with great of idle torque.
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What I'm trying to do is basically find something between a 503 and the 467. A few degrees more duration than the 503, with the slightly wider LSA of the 467 to keep overlap manageable, with 4 degree advance over the ICL. You think pulling back the LSA to 110-111 and adding 2 more degrees exhaust duration would be more like it? Never looked at LS1 cams- also hadn't yet pinned down the valve events, but was looking hard at emulating the ramp rates of the 467 and coming close to its IVC of 69 ABDC.
Ok, one likes it, one hates it.
What I'm trying to do is basically find something between a 503 and the 467. A few degrees more duration than the 503, with the slightly wider LSA of the 467 to keep overlap manageable, with 4 degree advance over the ICL. You think pulling back the LSA to 110-111 and adding 2 more degrees exhaust duration would be more like it? Never looked at LS1 cams- also hadn't yet pinned down the valve events, but was looking hard at emulating the ramp rates of the 467 and coming close to its IVC of 69 ABDC.
What I'm trying to do is basically find something between a 503 and the 467. A few degrees more duration than the 503, with the slightly wider LSA of the 467 to keep overlap manageable, with 4 degree advance over the ICL. You think pulling back the LSA to 110-111 and adding 2 more degrees exhaust duration would be more like it? Never looked at LS1 cams- also hadn't yet pinned down the valve events, but was looking hard at emulating the ramp rates of the 467 and coming close to its IVC of 69 ABDC.
Thank you, sir... I'll give it a try at 228/234, eith 109/113 or 108/112. If I hate it, I'll sell it and grind another one. Thanks Wicked for your input as well. 2 valuable opinions, much appreciated.
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From: Morinville, Alberta, Canada
Definitely get a real tune and the gears in. I should have better results for you next week with this cam. As far as your lack of lowend that feeling should go away after the tune/gears. And I was told the cam would peak around 6350 from Lloyd. Not sure why you are worried about spinning it that high, driving around on the street unless i push it im around 2500-3K rpms. Do you have any dyno numbers?
It only made like 335rwhp and 315rwtq or something stupid like that. I also had a wicked missfire at about 5800 rpm that i have no idea what it was.
So at this point im getting the car running again, making sure the heads are fine, throwing a mech. pump back on and hopin for the best so far. Im really tempted to just leave the cam thats in there right now as im going to be doing a 24x swap, but i still dont know if anyone around here can tune it right so.
im stuck between a rock and a hardplace at the moment.
Couldnt get accurate dyno numbers. I was dealing with a over heating issue also so i couldnt get a strong run in. The one time i could get a good run in without overheating the car pulled to 5500 rpm and that was it. Wouldnt spin any more then that.
It only made like 335rwhp and 315rwtq or something stupid like that. I also had a wicked missfire at about 5800 rpm that i have no idea what it was.
So at this point im getting the car running again, making sure the heads are fine, throwing a mech. pump back on and hopin for the best so far. Im really tempted to just leave the cam thats in there right now as im going to be doing a 24x swap, but i still dont know if anyone around here can tune it right so.
im stuck between a rock and a hardplace at the moment.
It only made like 335rwhp and 315rwtq or something stupid like that. I also had a wicked missfire at about 5800 rpm that i have no idea what it was.
So at this point im getting the car running again, making sure the heads are fine, throwing a mech. pump back on and hopin for the best so far. Im really tempted to just leave the cam thats in there right now as im going to be doing a 24x swap, but i still dont know if anyone around here can tune it right so.
im stuck between a rock and a hardplace at the moment.
Ok, one likes it, one hates it.
What I'm trying to do is basically find something between a 503 and the 467. A few degrees more duration than the 503, with the slightly wider LSA of the 467 to keep overlap manageable, with 4 degree advance over the ICL. You think pulling back the LSA to 110-111 and adding 2 more degrees exhaust duration would be more like it? Never looked at LS1 cams- also hadn't yet pinned down the valve events, but was looking hard at emulating the ramp rates of the 467 and coming close to its IVC of 69 ABDC.
What I'm trying to do is basically find something between a 503 and the 467. A few degrees more duration than the 503, with the slightly wider LSA of the 467 to keep overlap manageable, with 4 degree advance over the ICL. You think pulling back the LSA to 110-111 and adding 2 more degrees exhaust duration would be more like it? Never looked at LS1 cams- also hadn't yet pinned down the valve events, but was looking hard at emulating the ramp rates of the 467 and coming close to its IVC of 69 ABDC.
Thread Starter
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From: Morinville, Alberta, Canada
Id save the 2 grand and get a mail order like I mentioned. Your setup isnt that radical and either PCM 4 Less or Fast chips should get you pretty close to spot on. Your tune is way off. My #8 cylinder plug wire was going bad, compression was down due to a head gasket issue, was running thick oil in the motor/rearend and had like 300 miles on the new motor and made 318/330 at 5K (only pulled that high because of the issues discovered) and that was through my stalled auto
I understand that my setup isnt radical, but this will be the 2nd opti in 6 months. First one was a msd that **** out and the 2nd was a delco. Everything else appears and tests out to be in working order in the ignition compartment. It only misfires at 5800rpm roughly and the other thing that chances each time is the severity of the misfire..
Getting rid of all that opti **** is worth the money in my books. Plus theres alot more shops around here with the means of tuning a ls1 style computer as opposed to the LT1 pcm. Overall it would just be a means to an end and be much easier for it.
You're all over the place... spread the LSA to manage overlap? what's the point of retarding the exhaust? LSA falls where it does based on the valve events and centerlines of the intake and exhaust lobes. I can tell you a 3" runner intake does a great job of calming overlap, and also does a better job of filling the cylinder earlier rather than later in the intake cycle.
Thinking behind shortening the exhaust duration I got from an article written by Mr. Iskenderian: http://www.iskycams.com/techtips.php ("Longer Exhaust Duration: Is this really necessary?") And I want a touch less overlap than the 503's 54 degrees, that's why I was thinking going a degree wider ICL/LSA than the 503 for better efficiency/ better suited to EFI than the 503, which does slightly better on carb setups than EFI. Hadn't thought about the length of the intake runner's effect on overlap- think I just learned something important...
I'm really trying to do my homework and ask the right questions. If I fail, I fail. At least, nowhere in this thread have I said how much RWHP I wanted or thought I should have...
have a talk with lloyd about a cam, you cant just juggle cam specs like lsa and get the right valve events. It needs to be just like Wicked stated, let the lsa get determined by what valve events you need.
The only thing that should limit valve lift is your budget, unless you're in a lift rule class. Adding duration but limiting overlap is the wrong idea. EFI has nothing to do with LSA. Intake tract length has an effect on what cam the engine wants, just like compression, valve size, stroke, rod length, etc. You need to take ALL of these things into account as a system to get the right camshaft combination. If you're getting confused then you're on the right track
The only thing that should limit valve lift is your budget, unless you're in a lift rule class. Adding duration but limiting overlap is the wrong idea. EFI has nothing to do with LSA. Intake tract length has an effect on what cam the engine wants, just like compression, valve size, stroke, rod length, etc. You need to take ALL of these things into account as a system to get the right camshaft combination. If you're getting confused then you're on the right track
