nitrous or not?
nitrous or not? hey guys, i have a dilema. I was pretty much given a nitrous kit. I dont know how to set it up and have never used one so i dont know how much or if it is even safe. I know it needs more parts but i dont know what ones. it has the solenoids and nozzle with 4 different jets, bottle line, bottle with heater, bottle mounts, 2 relays, 2 fuse links, 2 toggle switches, and the wot switch. I know i need colder plugs etc. do i need to get a nitrous tune? I only want to go to a 100 hit at most as i only have full bolt ons in my m6. so advise would be appreciated, maby a local could give me a hand?
i dont see anything missing except instructions. what brand is it? this would probably be best in the n2o section but what i think you need it to find out who make the kit and get the instructions. and with the 1 step colder plugs i think you'll be ok without a tune. i ran mine without a tune.
I'd suggest reading up on nitrous use/systems first and really understanding how it works before taking that "oh so easy" step of just hitting the button 
To get you started, here's an old post excerpt from one of the first ImpalaSS guys to really have success with nitrous. I took notes from him and sprayed a 150 shot for many years with no ill effects whatsoever. My comment added in bold, and.....his setup was way more complex than most of us need, but nevertheless some ideas for readers here who may be techno junkies like Mr. Debski
"Nitrous for Newbies
By: George Debski
Here is some Nitrous advice for new users and an explanation of my set-up:
1) Do it yourself! Don't trust anyone else to take as much care as you will.
2) Make sure your fuel system is up to par. Don't rely on any stock fuel pump. Either add a bigger in-tank pump or big in-line, but not both.
3) Install a fuel pressure safety switch.
4) Install an rpm window switch.
5) Install a WOT switch
6) Either retard timing or use race fuel. I take exception to the "Either/or". For best performance always retard timing if you're already tuned for best NA
7) NEVER hit it manually. Let the window switch and WOT switch do it for you.
8) Don't use it below 3000rpm.
9) Make sure you have colder plugs with copper electrodes.
10) Take ALL your plugs out every once in a while and check them.
11) Get a good bottle heater and never use propane torches.
12) Make sure everything is wired through the ignition circuit.
13) Tune your motor for best results BEFORE using N2O.
14) Get a good capacitative discharge ignition with a soft rev limiter. DO NOT EVER rely on the stock limiter which cuts the fuel off.
15) Make sure you have a good N2O filter.
16) Start with a small shot when you're testing.
17) Test your system often. On a wet system, a completely simple way is to hit the juice while the bottle's closed. You should dump a load of fuel in, and the engine should bog. If it doesn't - that fuel solenoid isn't working - bad news! That's not a complete test, but it tests some critical pieces of your system.
If you do all of the above, the odds are pretty good your system and your motor will last a long time
Here is the set-up I'm using now:
* 2 NX Shark nozzles.
* My retard box is the 3-stage Crane timing box. It has little adjustable wheels in 1 deg increments up to 15deg per stage.
The way my N2O setup works:
1) Fuel pump must be running to get power to the N2O system and bottle heater.
2) First I arm it. This also opens the bottle. That's all I have to do to start it off.
3) At that time power goes to the Throttle switch but nothing occurs yet.
4) When I go to WOT, power goes to the delay timer.
5) When the delay shuts off, power is applied to the RPM box.
6) At 3000rpm stage1 and 1deg retard goes on, at 3800rpm stage 2 and 3 more deg retard goes on (only if the 2nd stage switch is on)
7) Over 5800rpm, N2O is off and an extra 4deg retard is added.(shifts at 6000)
If fuel pressure goes down, N2O shuts off. If throttle is moved, N2O shuts off and delay box is rearmed. When I'm done with the run, I hit the disarming switch, which shuts the system and closes the bottle. If the fuel pump shuts down, the N2O shuts off. It's really foolproof, and I can't screw it up, even if I tried!!!!
I can adjust each stage ON rpm with little wheels on the Crane 3-stage RPM box, with adjustments every 100rpm. None of those stupid MSD pills.
In addition, I also adjust my air/fuel ratio for the temperature with the MAF Translator (I'm still learning that one )
There are also 8 indicator lights in the instrument panel for the following:
* System on
* Stage 1 armed
* Stage 2 armed
* Stage 1 on
* Stage 2 on
* Heater on
* Bottle closed
* Line Loc on
Additionally, there are 2 timers in 0.1sec increments for bottle usage for each stage and the delay adjustment **** (0.05 to 10sec). Of course, there is also the purge switch and Line-Loc switch, 2 system on switches, heater switch and stage1/stage2 switch all in the center console.
Hope this information will help some of you guys make a proper and safe set-up."
To get you started, here's an old post excerpt from one of the first ImpalaSS guys to really have success with nitrous. I took notes from him and sprayed a 150 shot for many years with no ill effects whatsoever. My comment added in bold, and.....his setup was way more complex than most of us need, but nevertheless some ideas for readers here who may be techno junkies like Mr. Debski
"Nitrous for Newbies
By: George Debski
Here is some Nitrous advice for new users and an explanation of my set-up:
1) Do it yourself! Don't trust anyone else to take as much care as you will.
2) Make sure your fuel system is up to par. Don't rely on any stock fuel pump. Either add a bigger in-tank pump or big in-line, but not both.
3) Install a fuel pressure safety switch.
4) Install an rpm window switch.
5) Install a WOT switch
6) Either retard timing or use race fuel. I take exception to the "Either/or". For best performance always retard timing if you're already tuned for best NA
7) NEVER hit it manually. Let the window switch and WOT switch do it for you.
8) Don't use it below 3000rpm.
9) Make sure you have colder plugs with copper electrodes.
10) Take ALL your plugs out every once in a while and check them.
11) Get a good bottle heater and never use propane torches.
12) Make sure everything is wired through the ignition circuit.
13) Tune your motor for best results BEFORE using N2O.
14) Get a good capacitative discharge ignition with a soft rev limiter. DO NOT EVER rely on the stock limiter which cuts the fuel off.
15) Make sure you have a good N2O filter.
16) Start with a small shot when you're testing.
17) Test your system often. On a wet system, a completely simple way is to hit the juice while the bottle's closed. You should dump a load of fuel in, and the engine should bog. If it doesn't - that fuel solenoid isn't working - bad news! That's not a complete test, but it tests some critical pieces of your system.
If you do all of the above, the odds are pretty good your system and your motor will last a long time
Here is the set-up I'm using now:
* 2 NX Shark nozzles.
* My retard box is the 3-stage Crane timing box. It has little adjustable wheels in 1 deg increments up to 15deg per stage.
The way my N2O setup works:
1) Fuel pump must be running to get power to the N2O system and bottle heater.
2) First I arm it. This also opens the bottle. That's all I have to do to start it off.
3) At that time power goes to the Throttle switch but nothing occurs yet.
4) When I go to WOT, power goes to the delay timer.
5) When the delay shuts off, power is applied to the RPM box.
6) At 3000rpm stage1 and 1deg retard goes on, at 3800rpm stage 2 and 3 more deg retard goes on (only if the 2nd stage switch is on)
7) Over 5800rpm, N2O is off and an extra 4deg retard is added.(shifts at 6000)
If fuel pressure goes down, N2O shuts off. If throttle is moved, N2O shuts off and delay box is rearmed. When I'm done with the run, I hit the disarming switch, which shuts the system and closes the bottle. If the fuel pump shuts down, the N2O shuts off. It's really foolproof, and I can't screw it up, even if I tried!!!!
I can adjust each stage ON rpm with little wheels on the Crane 3-stage RPM box, with adjustments every 100rpm. None of those stupid MSD pills.
In addition, I also adjust my air/fuel ratio for the temperature with the MAF Translator (I'm still learning that one )
There are also 8 indicator lights in the instrument panel for the following:
* System on
* Stage 1 armed
* Stage 2 armed
* Stage 1 on
* Stage 2 on
* Heater on
* Bottle closed
* Line Loc on
Additionally, there are 2 timers in 0.1sec increments for bottle usage for each stage and the delay adjustment **** (0.05 to 10sec). Of course, there is also the purge switch and Line-Loc switch, 2 system on switches, heater switch and stage1/stage2 switch all in the center console.
Hope this information will help some of you guys make a proper and safe set-up."
yes it is a dynotune kit. Sorry i dint mention that. So do i need to go that extent just to run a 100 shot? I'm on a budget and cant spend hardly any money so if i cant do it for cheap and be safe I'm not gunna use it.
I had a NX kit on my car, I was running a 150 shot i put the kit on when the car had 55,000 miles on it when i sold it i was at 165,000 miles and the car still ran real good.But all car are not the same you may not have the same luck, start with a 100 shot. Like most people after you use it for a few weeks you will more than likely move to a 150 shot. you will love it. JUST MAKE SURE YOU HAVE SOMEONE THAT KNOW WHAT THEY ARE DOING PUT IT ON. YOU ARE GOING TO NEED NEW PLUGS ALSO,
Good luck with your car and have fun. I would post this in the Nitrous thread
Good luck with your car and have fun. I would post this in the Nitrous thread
Im not going past a 100 shot. And im gunna run tr6 plugs. I didngo to dynotunes website and the kit is easy to set up so ill do it myself. I am a mechanic and can identify a lean condition so ill just be careful untill im sure its good. What kind of numbers do you think a bolt on m6 will make with a 100 shot?
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Verdad Gallardo Man your always an *** arent you lol. All i meant was i will keep a close eye on fuel solenoid and the plugs and make sure it is all good. Im only running a 100 shot too, i know bad things can still happen very easily though. If it blows it blows, i may do a dyno pull on wideband with spray and see what it looks like.
Im not going past a 100 shot. And im gunna run tr6 plugs. I didngo to dynotunes website and the kit is easy to set up so ill do it myself. I am a mechanic and can identify a lean condition so ill just be careful untill im sure its good. What kind of numbers do you think a bolt on m6 will make with a 100 shot?
r u being serious? i can never tell with you haha. I want to do it right and not bypass any precautions. I'm just tight on cash and welcomed my second son into the world 8 days ago so i don't have much time either.
I looked for bottle openers and they are like 200 bucks?! Is there something im missing?
Also, its not necessary to run a purge valve is it? It would probubly just be a dissapointing bog before the nitrous catches up with the fuel?
How long does the bottle need to be on the heater before you can use it? how do i monitor the temp? And i have a pressure gage with another sensor that is actually part of the dynotune kit that is right off the bottle. What is the sensor?
I looked for bottle openers and they are like 200 bucks?! Is there something im missing?
Also, its not necessary to run a purge valve is it? It would probubly just be a dissapointing bog before the nitrous catches up with the fuel?
How long does the bottle need to be on the heater before you can use it? how do i monitor the temp? And i have a pressure gage with another sensor that is actually part of the dynotune kit that is right off the bottle. What is the sensor?
you don't go by heat, you go by the psi of the bottle. I like to run my bottle between 950-1100 psi. you dont need a purge. if you are short on cash all you need is a heater. I think the NX heater turn off and on as needed.
The purpose of purging - nitrous systems are calibrated to be used with liquid nitrous when you connect the line to your cylinder and open your valve. The air that was in that line is now compressed forward towards your nitrous solenoid. Purging allows this compressed air to escape and pulls the liquid forward to your solenoid, allowing a correct mixture of nitrous and fuel at the initial activation of the system. The purge is also used to relieve pressure from the system after use when the valve is closed
All that will happen with out a purge is, it will not hit as hard off the line. so that is up to you. IMO it will help your 60 foot time but you don't have to have one
All that will happen with out a purge is, it will not hit as hard off the line. so that is up to you. IMO it will help your 60 foot time but you don't have to have one
I manually purge mine... hold the rpms above the activation point on the window switch then bump the wot switch. When it revs clean its purged
Last edited by gregrob; Feb 22, 2011 at 02:42 PM.
Take the money that you would spend on a purge and get your AF's check, the would be the safest thing you could do. I like my AF's to be right at 12.8 on the bottle.Just reading the plugs is not the way to go, IMO. I hope the kit works out good for you Keep us posted
I know what the purge valve does, just dident know if it was a necessity.
I will get my afr's checked before and during spray before i am comfortable with the setup.
I also was wondering what this thing is. It looks lile a fuel pressure safety switch, but the guy i got the kit from has it right off the bottle.
I will get my afr's checked before and during spray before i am comfortable with the setup.
I also was wondering what this thing is. It looks lile a fuel pressure safety switch, but the guy i got the kit from has it right off the bottle.