New Setup Is Acting Very Homo........!!!
02-23-2011, 08:20 AM
#22
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^^Exactly. Email Solomon and tell him what's going on. He's a good tuner and helped me out tremendously on problems of mine that weren't even tune related. He will try to help you whether the problem is his tune or something on the car. I'm willing to bet it's not the tune, unless you gave Solomon inaccurate information about the car.
02-23-2011, 11:47 AM
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ok guys...good news!!!. i ran my own switched 12v source to the pink wire and now the car is running great!!! im goin to check the fuse or i have a break in the wire somewhere.i have still hold the pedal to start it but i hope thats because of the fouled out plugs still in.holds a great idle. my longtubes sound awesome and i recommend them to anyone with manifolds cuz that "lt1 growl" is not the business at all lol.
02-23-2011, 02:54 PM
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well how about more rain on my parade...been out all morning in the car no problems...car starts bucking and sputtering...headers burnt one or two of my plug wires...thought i had it tied off good but i guess not.
then just when i thought it couldnt get any worse..........car starts to run hot!!!..fluctuated to 240 then down to about 200 then a little more driving it hit 260+!!!
i bled the system some more temp didnt drop at all...has a new thermostat but its a autozone t-stat....radiator is fairly new...anyway to tell if waterpump
then just when i thought it couldnt get any worse..........car starts to run hot!!!..fluctuated to 240 then down to about 200 then a little more driving it hit 260+!!!
i bled the system some more temp didnt drop at all...has a new thermostat but its a autozone t-stat....radiator is fairly new...anyway to tell if waterpump
02-23-2011, 03:03 PM
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ok....Sounds like the guy who did the tune on your computer was not on the same page as you.
The egr, and the 02 sensors showing up means that in the computer its still trying to read that information, being that there not there its gonna run crazy rich.
something with that pink wire is causing the car to NOW run lean.
REASON for the heat.
rich runs cold.
lean runs hot.
both cases are only FOR EXTREME> and if your burning **** up and running 260 its definitly lean.
DO YOUSELF a favor.
take the damn pcm out. and call them.
and or use the ocm your buddy has.
Your going to **** up your car even more trying to make something that is FAIL work.
The egr, and the 02 sensors showing up means that in the computer its still trying to read that information, being that there not there its gonna run crazy rich.
something with that pink wire is causing the car to NOW run lean.
REASON for the heat.
rich runs cold.
lean runs hot.
both cases are only FOR EXTREME> and if your burning **** up and running 260 its definitly lean.
DO YOUSELF a favor.
take the damn pcm out. and call them.
and or use the ocm your buddy has.
Your going to **** up your car even more trying to make something that is FAIL work.
02-23-2011, 03:14 PM
#29
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ok guys i think im on to something.even tho i was unplugging the maf and all i decided to look into the maf anyway and found something.no voltage on the pink wire at the maf at all...0v
i have continuity to ground on the black wire
it has 5v reference from the pcm
but 0v on the pink 12v supply for it....
what fuse do i need to be looking at?
and out of curiousity if this doesnt have voltage what else doesnt?
i have a 96 z28 m6 if that helps....
i have continuity to ground on the black wire
it has 5v reference from the pcm
but 0v on the pink 12v supply for it....
what fuse do i need to be looking at?
and out of curiousity if this doesnt have voltage what else doesnt?
i have a 96 z28 m6 if that helps....
BTW, specifying what you are driving helps a lot when you are asking maintenance advice.
02-23-2011, 06:17 PM
#30
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well i installed a new thermostat with no results.but im on to something else...the fans are not cutting on soon enough..the needle was dam near 260 before my fans clicked on.i had solomon to cut the first fan on at 195 and the other at 210.and when the fans did finally come on the temp never dropped down. now im wondering if the car never really ran hot and maybe the temp guage sensor in the driverside head is just faulty...i already gave the scanner back to my bud so i cant compare the ect readings...anyone had a faulty guage sensor before?
02-23-2011, 06:35 PM
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you've said "i think I'm on to something" quite a few times, be careful with that thinking. I said the same thing before I knew it I was out another 450 in parts with no results. My injectors were to small and I think he said my duty cycle had them wide open. Seek help locally
02-24-2011, 12:42 PM
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alright i pretty much have resolved my overheating issue.it had about "12,000lbs" of air in the system.took me about 3 hours worth of bleeding air just to get it to the point its at now.and at first i was using the lever on the lev-r-vent radiator cap to bleed the system and im not sure if it did the job.i didnt want to use the bleeder on the thermostat housing to keep the opti from getting sprayed...as of now i run no higher than 210 and the fans are working as they should as of now.
also i had my fans set for 195 and 210....should i have set them a little lower?
also i had my fans set for 195 and 210....should i have set them a little lower?
02-24-2011, 10:44 PM
#40
no
More than likley your coolant crossflow tube or the banjo bolts are clogged if you can't get the air out. The best way to bleed these cars when they are clogged is to get the front end up in the air and bleed it that way. My crossover tube was clogged and when I tried to bleed mine I had the same problems with it trapping air in the system. When I put in my 383 i made sure that damn crossflow pipe was clear and it bleed so easy. Car was level and all you have to do is just fill it and start it and top it all off. The crossflow pipe is a real pain in the *** to get to and a bigger pain in the *** if it's clogged. I am a cheap bastard so I spent a week working on that thing and the banjo bolts with brake cleaner, carb cleaner, compressed air and a dremel just because I was too damn cheap to buy another. I did have to buy new seals for the banjo bolts. Most guys go to home depot and buy fittings and to the auto parts stores for rubber line to replace the crossover pipe. I think you can still buy them though. Not sure what it costs though.
More than likley your coolant crossflow tube or the banjo bolts are clogged if you can't get the air out. The best way to bleed these cars when they are clogged is to get the front end up in the air and bleed it that way. My crossover tube was clogged and when I tried to bleed mine I had the same problems with it trapping air in the system. When I put in my 383 i made sure that damn crossflow pipe was clear and it bleed so easy. Car was level and all you have to do is just fill it and start it and top it all off. The crossflow pipe is a real pain in the *** to get to and a bigger pain in the *** if it's clogged. I am a cheap bastard so I spent a week working on that thing and the banjo bolts with brake cleaner, carb cleaner, compressed air and a dremel just because I was too damn cheap to buy another. I did have to buy new seals for the banjo bolts. Most guys go to home depot and buy fittings and to the auto parts stores for rubber line to replace the crossover pipe. I think you can still buy them though. Not sure what it costs though.