Forged Crank. Really Necessary?
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TECH Regular
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 444
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From: Kailua-Kona, HI
Forged Crank. Really Necessary? So at what point hp wise or RPM wise is the stock crank just not going to cut it?
I am going to be building a shortblock for the Trans Am and a $1,000 crank makes a huge difference for me $$$$ wise.
Opinions?
I am going to be building a shortblock for the Trans Am and a $1,000 crank makes a huge difference for me $$$$ wise.
Opinions?
a stock LS crank can handle 800+, not sure on the LT's
pistons and rod bolts are the limiting factors on the LS's, many people go with rod bolts and forged pistons, make sure your fuel pump and injectors are up to the task, then walla, you have 650-700rwhp reliable potential
pistons and rod bolts are the limiting factors on the LS's, many people go with rod bolts and forged pistons, make sure your fuel pump and injectors are up to the task, then walla, you have 650-700rwhp reliable potential
NA? Spray? FI? For NA you really don't need a forged crank. For spray you should be fine unless you are running a ridiculous shot. If you decide to go forged go with a stroker crank. Will make more power and torque everywhere even with the same topend
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the thing that really kills a cast crank is rpm.......they tend to want to flex alot at that high rpm and begin to reak havoc on a motor.......if you stayed around 6000 i bet it would handle 700+ fwhp........but once you start going to that 7000rpm+ range id swap it out for a forged offering........i twisted my 355 7000 with a stock crank making around 515fwhp......ran fine for two years.......but that was the limit of what id run it......my new motor ive been twisting 8000rpm+ for two years with a callies forged crank and upon this tear down it looked like brand new........you get what you pay for....
