I have a set of le heads on the way to my house, but I need to order new head bolt so I can install them; I just don't like reusing old head bolts on a new motor. My question is what bolts should I go with? I don't want bolts that I will have to torque again after they go through a few heat cycles.

 

Either stock or

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ARP-134-3601/

 

Thanks I think I will go with the ARP bolts.

 

Or head studs

 

if you run new bolts or studs i'd retorque them espically if your running a MLS gasket........new bolts and gaskets on the intital heat cycle go through a stretch/compression change and need to be re-torqued.......the 25 min it takes to do it will be worth the trouble down the road........trust me I've been there lol

 

While using a composite gasket I've never had to retorque bolts. MLS gaskets on the other hand it would be a good idea. I had them on my engine for three years, didn't retorque the heads and they finally gave up and coolant got into the cylinders. Aboslutley no reason to use a MLS gasket unless you are going for serious power.

 

my 355 i blew a felpro gasket cause i didn't retorque....arp told me to retorque with new bolts no matter what......then i did the same on this motor.......prob my own stupid fault of running a composite fel pro gasket on a 14:1 motor .......went to studed cometics and havent had an issue since....espically after i retorqued them after the first heat cycle....

 

for my ARP bolts I torqued em to spec, loosened them, retorqued them, loosened them, then retorqued them.

 

Yeah probably. I haven't dabbled with anything over 11.5:1...

 

Mine should only be around 11:2:1, I will be running the .026" thick Victor Reinz 5898 head gaskets. How would I be able to re tq the bolts that are on the outside just under the headers in 25 min; I could re tq the bolt under the valve cover easily, but the ones by the header would be a pain. I am going to torque them, loosen, re tq, loosen, and re tq again.

 

thats fine but install them..........fire the car, once it reaches full temp shut it off and let it completely cool and then re-torque all the studs......dont loosen them just re-check them all........trust me you'll thank me down the road lol

 

should I re torque the ones just under the headers also, or just the bolts under the valve cover. If I need to re tq all of the bolts then I will have to install the headers fire it up then remove the headers to re tq the bolts just below the spark plugs.

 

well if you're going to retorque the bolts you'll want to do the proper torque sequence which would require the lower ones. I told you what I did, others here have built more motors than myself but this is what has worked for me on my 12:1+ build.

 

I think I am going to take the chance and go with your method; I just don't want to have to put it all together only to pull it all apart again to re torque. Is there any special sealant I should use on the bolts or threads before I install the heads.

 

IIRC it was either permatex thread sealant or teflon tape on any that went through a water jacket.

 

I allways torque them then after a while loosen them and retorque them on the engine stand. Never had a premature gasket failure.

 

I used the arm and I would re-torque, lost a head gasket last season re-torqued and it made it threw the weekend

 

would you rather pull apart valve covers and an alternator or the whole top end of the motor again...........your choice......

 

There is really no need to preach the doom and voodoo gloom with this. There have been many people who have never retorqued head bolts and they do just fine. Guaranteed more people haven't retorqued than those who have. You said it yourself, one of the reasons you think you had a problem was because of your compression.

 

true....however I have run into issues with NEW head bolts and studs not being retorqued after an inital heat cycle.........NEW bolts and studs NEED to be retorqued, if the bolts are seasoned already you are fine......