Head bolt?
Head bolt? I have a set of le heads on the way to my house, but I need to order new head bolt so I can install them; I just don't like reusing old head bolts on a new motor. My question is what bolts should I go with? I don't want bolts that I will have to torque again after they go through a few heat cycles.
if you run new bolts or studs i'd retorque them espically if your running a MLS gasket........new bolts and gaskets on the intital heat cycle go through a stretch/compression change and need to be re-torqued.......the 25 min it takes to do it will be worth the trouble down the road........trust me I've been there lol
While using a composite gasket I've never had to retorque bolts. MLS gaskets on the other hand it would be a good idea. I had them on my engine for three years, didn't retorque the heads and they finally gave up and coolant got into the cylinders. Aboslutley no reason to use a MLS gasket unless you are going for serious power.
While using a composite gasket I've never had to retorque bolts. MLS gaskets on the other hand it would be a good idea. I had them on my engine for three years, didn't retorque the heads and they finally gave up and coolant got into the cylinders. Aboslutley no reason to use a MLS gasket unless you are going for serious power.
.......went to studed cometics and havent had an issue since....espically after i retorqued them after the first heat cycle.... Trending Topics
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Verdad Gallardo Mine should only be around 11:2:1, I will be running the .026" thick Victor Reinz 5898 head gaskets. How would I be able to re tq the bolts that are on the outside just under the headers in 25 min; I could re tq the bolt under the valve cover easily, but the ones by the header would be a pain. I am going to torque them, loosen, re tq, loosen, and re tq again.
Mine should only be around 11:2:1, I will be running the .026" thick Victor Reinz 5898 head gaskets. How would I be able to re tq the bolts that are on the outside just under the headers in 25 min; I could re tq the bolt under the valve cover easily, but the ones by the header would be a pain. I am going to torque them, loosen, re tq, loosen, and re tq again.
should I re torque the ones just under the headers also, or just the bolts under the valve cover. If I need to re tq all of the bolts then I will have to install the headers fire it up then remove the headers to re tq the bolts just below the spark plugs.
well if you're going to retorque the bolts you'll want to do the proper torque sequence which would require the lower ones. I told you what I did, others here have built more motors than myself but this is what has worked for me on my 12:1+ build.
I think I am going to take the chance and go with your method; I just don't want to have to put it all together only to pull it all apart again to re torque. Is there any special sealant I should use on the bolts or threads before I install the heads.
IIRC it was either permatex thread sealant or teflon tape on any that went through a water jacket.
would you rather pull apart valve covers and an alternator or the whole top end of the motor again...........your choice......
There is really no need to preach the doom and voodoo gloom with this. There have been many people who have never retorqued head bolts and they do just fine. Guaranteed more people haven't retorqued than those who have. You said it yourself, one of the reasons you think you had a problem was because of your compression.
There is really no need to preach the doom and voodoo gloom with this. There have been many people who have never retorqued head bolts and they do just fine. Guaranteed more people haven't retorqued than those who have. You said it yourself, one of the reasons you think you had a problem was because of your compression.
