LT1 Procharger
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Teching In
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 43
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LT1 Procharger I'm sure this has been brought up multiple times, and I've been reading post and doing research on it for a while. I'm just looking for some answers to questions I'm still having and hoping some of you guys may have them. I want to procharge my '96 Trans Am to 8 psi, nothing to crazy yet, but have read a lot about not just slapping it on without changing the bottom end. I've also seen people that have said they haven't and didn't have any problems. I'd rather do it right from the start than shredding a motor. I was wondering what all needs to be done to do this. I'm looking to put out 400-500 hp.
I'm sure this has been brought up multiple times, and I've been reading post and doing research on it for a while. I'm just looking for some answers to questions I'm still having and hoping some of you guys may have them. I want to procharge my '96 Trans Am to 8 psi, nothing to crazy yet, but have read a lot about not just slapping it on without changing the bottom end. I've also seen people that have said they haven't and didn't have any problems. I'd rather do it right from the start than shredding a motor. I was wondering what all needs to be done to do this. I'm looking to put out 400-500 hp.
It would be a time bomb to me though...
Great tune, cold plugs, good gas, and meth will be your friend on a stock rotating assembly. It can be done, but you must be smart about it. Adequate fuel injectors and a good fuel pump will help make sure you're getting enough fuel to the motor. Also look into upgrading to a keyed hub to lessen belt issues you might run into. Ad
Last edited by myltwon; Mar 16, 2011 at 07:41 PM.
spray is much cheaper than FI. but 6 psi should net you 400 rwhp easy on all stock parts, so if you have cam or heads then your already pushing it when you FI the stock internals.
400-500hp at the crank or wheels? I honestly wouldn't bother with FI on a stock LT1. I would much rather go the cheaper and more reliable route of a nice heads/cam setup. At 8psi, its possible to run it on that a stock LT1 but the tune would need to be spot on with no mechanical issues.
It would be a time bomb to me though...
It would be a time bomb to me though...
save the money that you would have initially spent on just buying the fi set up and build a very streetable and yet devastatingly powerful 383-396. You can get into a full forged bottom end for less than 3k(would spend that for fi also) buy a custom ground cam and have your stock heads ported and flow benched so you have a good idea about the cfm you're pushing and then build your exhaust to match your needs. Finally if 430-470 rwhp is not enough get a nitrous set-up set on a 150 hit and watch the dyno scream to ~600rwhp.....way too much for the street butoh so fun
Another great thread thats discussed all the time...
Like said above you can run it being smart with all the right parts to go with it and a spot on tune. The issue is how long is it going to last? A day, week, months, years? You just never know and is it really worth all that money and you have to second guess every time you hit the throttle is she going to handle it? I was down this road and if i was still deadset on going FI i would build a forged bottom end around 10.5:1 with stock head cc's and when you have the cash to with the blower buy a set of AFR or TFS 62-65cc heads which will bump your compression down to a safer rate while being n/a for a short in the meantime. Its all up to what you want but if you wanted to go both ways and have a bottom end built once that twice this is the way to go.
Build it right the first time!
Like said above you can run it being smart with all the right parts to go with it and a spot on tune. The issue is how long is it going to last? A day, week, months, years? You just never know and is it really worth all that money and you have to second guess every time you hit the throttle is she going to handle it? I was down this road and if i was still deadset on going FI i would build a forged bottom end around 10.5:1 with stock head cc's and when you have the cash to with the blower buy a set of AFR or TFS 62-65cc heads which will bump your compression down to a safer rate while being n/a for a short in the meantime. Its all up to what you want but if you wanted to go both ways and have a bottom end built once that twice this is the way to go.
Build it right the first time!
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On The Tree
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 135
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From: Dayton ,Ohio
400-500rwhp is attainable without FI on a LT1. I would agree with most and save my money and build a nice NA engine. Either way you will need supporting mods like converter/clutch, 3.73/4.10 gears, and a few suspension parts to keep the car straight. Then if you want to put on a procharger change out the pistons for lower compression and you can throw more than 8psi and make 700-800rwhp. Build it with strong parts the first time and it can be easily upgraded later on.
i know its been said a million times but it really comes down to what u want to do im currently selling my p600b procharger(which runs 8lbs) because i decided to run NA on mine instead it did cost alittle more initially but i know they way i built the engine it is going to be alot more solid of an engine. but if you are really wanting to run a FI engine i can see if i still have my build sheet from when i was planning a prcharged 355 instead of a NA 383
