New Opti...Still Wont Start!!!
#41
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Nobody has said VATS yet.
When you turn the key to the acc. position, during the lamp test, see if you see a light that says Security. Could be as dumb as a coincidence of burnt out bulb and the VATS module has gone south, or as simple as a chafed resistor wire on the lock cylinder. Have taken VATS apart, bypassed, but never had to troubleshoot a VATS problem in person. Worth mentioning.
Said when he turns it by hand he gets spark, but from turning the key, no go...
When you turn the key to the acc. position, during the lamp test, see if you see a light that says Security. Could be as dumb as a coincidence of burnt out bulb and the VATS module has gone south, or as simple as a chafed resistor wire on the lock cylinder. Have taken VATS apart, bypassed, but never had to troubleshoot a VATS problem in person. Worth mentioning.
Said when he turns it by hand he gets spark, but from turning the key, no go...
and to answer your question.i had vats tuned out when i got my tune.thats why i havent thought anything about vats since its suppose to be tuned out.can it still give me problems?
#43
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I was just woundering if before you pulled it all apart you checked for spark with a good checker? and did you check fuel pressure? Just wanted to know and did nt see it anywhere when i wass re reading all the posts
#44
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yes i checked and the fuel pressure is on point.fouled out 2 sets of plugs with this no spark.so i unplugged the fuel pump relay to put and end to that.basically troubleshooting off starting fluid for now
#46
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question.... im going to try another icm today.but is there any kind of homo *** way that my ignition switch could be causing these problems even tho it has 12v at the pigtails with key on?i looked around and noticed alot of people that were having ignition switch problems dash lights werent working...but mine work....just wondering
#47
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but my prob isnt even fuel related so it doesnt really matter
#48
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question.... im going to try another icm today.but is there any kind of homo *** way that my ignition switch could be causing these problems even tho it has 12v at the pigtails with key on?i looked around and noticed alot of people that were having ignition switch problems dash lights werent working...but mine work....just wondering
#49
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Truthfully the 12v you have at the coild comes throught the ign switch via the theft deterent. So if you have 12 V contant there when the key is turned on its good, unless the 12 v goes away as you turn the key to start. Since the car turns over you also know that the theft deterent is OK.
but the gay part of this is my car doesnt even really show any signs of a bad ignition switch.......iono
#50
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just took the steering column out and installed a new ignition switch..it still drops voltage in the start position...but at least i know its been changed if i ever have any future problems.
would anyone have a schematic on the ignition switch so i can see which wire supplies power when the key is in the start position.
would anyone have a schematic on the ignition switch so i can see which wire supplies power when the key is in the start position.
#51
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Definitely want to see the outcome of this. Went through the same problem but I haven't got it rectified so I am just switching to a whole new ignition system altogether removing the opti altogether. But, I did too test out my ignition switch because of so many other people w/ similiar issues etc.
#52
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Definitely want to see the outcome of this. Went through the same problem but I haven't got it rectified so I am just switching to a whole new ignition system altogether removing the opti altogether. But, I did too test out my ignition switch because of so many other people w/ similiar issues etc.
#53
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i studied this schematic earlier from shbox's site...http://shbox.com/1/ignswschematic96.jpg
according to this the pink wires should have 12v whether the key is in run or in start.i installed new ignition switch today and it still only has power in run but not start. would the lock cylinder have any part in this or do i need to stay focused on the switch and wiring?
now i know i can easily incorporate switched power with a relay but i want to keep this "factory" and less complicated...
according to this the pink wires should have 12v whether the key is in run or in start.i installed new ignition switch today and it still only has power in run but not start. would the lock cylinder have any part in this or do i need to stay focused on the switch and wiring?
now i know i can easily incorporate switched power with a relay but i want to keep this "factory" and less complicated...
#56
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forgot to let you all know i got it running finally.the pink wire from the ignition switch that feeds the under hood electrical somehow was screwed up...how...i dont know.anyways i cut it to prevent problems later and ran my own wire from the ign switch to the fuse box and all is well...electrical problems at its finest
#57
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Sounds like you need to start checking all of the wiring. Maybe something got burned or grounded out. I had a very similar problem as you once and trailed everywire under the hood and alot in the dash. I found lots of burnt and stripped wires.
Are you're injectors pulsing?
Are you're injectors pulsing?
forgot to let you all know i got it running finally.the pink wire from the ignition switch that feeds the under hood electrical somehow was screwed up...how...i dont know.anyways i cut it to prevent problems later and ran my own wire from the ign switch to the fuse box and all is well...electrical problems at its finest
Do I get a cookie?
Sorry I never PM'd you back. I was on a fishing trip and had no internet access.
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forgot to let you all know i got it running finally.the pink wire from the ignition switch that feeds the under hood electrical somehow was screwed up...how...i dont know.anyways i cut it to prevent problems later and ran my own wire from the ign switch to the fuse box and all is well...electrical problems at its finest
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but i do want to thank all who gave input and ideas. helping the people on here with the "raggedy" cars is also a part of this forum not always who's building the next $10,000 motor lol...thanks to all