kolorzcars

alright, i have the main hoop bent and the plates welded down, i just want to see how you guys are bending the door bars and rear bars. also does the number of or angle of the bends have an effect on how nhra likes it or not.


just for exra info Im tig welding it in and its 4130 pipe...

duh

iTrader: (16)

Door bars are required to pass at the drivers shoulder, and I believe the knee. IIRC its been a few years since needing a cage done, but the rears went from the main hoop to just behind the shock mount and had an X brace between them. The door bars left the main hoop just above the shoulder and went down to the front door bar at the kickpanel. If you check the nhra website they have illistrations to help you out and pretty definitive IIRC. G/L

gregrob

iTrader: (8)

Are you building a cage or roll bar...? How fast do you want to cert to

GIZMO

iTrader: (8)

kolorzcars

great pick gizmo, and thanks for the replys guys

joelster

Here's mine. It was custom built by a friend of mine. He tucked the door bars in very close to the panels. The kits you buy don't come this close.




Notice how wide the bars go out to the side where the panel is. That gives me the most arm room.




I paid $275 for the material and $600 or $650 for the install (can't remember exactly). My cage weighed 46 lbs including the 6 plates.

kolorzcars

great pics man, yours is very close to what im trying to get mine to, is yours nhra certified?

GIZMO

iTrader: (8)

A roll bar does not have to be certified. A cage needs to be certified for 9.99 or faster (or if the rules for your class specify it).

Formula383

iTrader: (8)

Just finished my cage last Friday. I got to help some, but it was installed by Jon at DB Rods in Taylor, TX and he did an outstanding job. It's a Wolfe 6 point with 2 additional down bars from the main hoop to convert it to an 8 point. The Wolfe kit is a decent kit but I'm not too impressed with some of the bends which are flattened a little. I used RJS cam lock 3" 5 point harnesses with 2" crotch strap. They fit very well and are super easy to get in and out of.


IMG_1087 by tx20d, on Flickr


IMG_1081 by tx20d, on Flickr


IMG_1080 by tx20d, on Flickr


IMG_1082 by tx20d, on Flickr


IMG_1084 by tx20d, on Flickr


IMG_1085 by tx20d, on Flickr

kolorzcars

great info gizmo, thats the best part of this forum, the little guys like me get to ask the top guns questions


formula383, i drooled over your car when it was in gmhightech! thing looks nice, cage turned out sweet. thanks for the pics

GIZMO

iTrader: (8)

The difference betwean my cage and both of the others pictured is that it is tied into the shock mounts, spring seats, and frame connectors. I am actually "using" the cage to help the car launch. They all look good. It just depends on what you are trying to do with the car and space requirements.

Formula383

iTrader: (8)

LOL, thanks man! Good luck with your build!

kolorzcars

ahhh this makes sense now...my pads are welded on top of my spring mounts already, Im just trying to figure out the bars going to them, i need to retain the rear seat for car shows(not that my car is clean enough...) with my kids.

GIZMO

iTrader: (8)

Make sure that you pad anything that the kids can hit their heads on. Make sure that the back seat belts work properly too!

kolorzcars

yep, for sure, i had my kid in there for mock up, and Ill be putting foam pad around all the rear bars when they are in there, and this is the last summer i will have a back seat(the girls wanted me to keep it one more year). I ran 11.46 with a 1.70 60' last year and after that pass, my t-tops dont fit right and my drivers door squeels when i open it, so i figure its time for the sub-connectors and roll bar.