The inevitable finally happened! 10-bolt Fail twice w/ NEW VIDEO!
03-23-2011, 10:17 PM
#21
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I will show you what I mean Friday! The new setup for Friday is a stock 10-Bolt with 4.10's on it...I will show you pictures of the aftermath when I DESTROY those things!!! Cause TRUST ME, it WILL happen...the ONLY reason I am putting them in is because I paid money for a track day already that is non-refundable, and I want to get at least 1 good run in before the rear goes out, and I got this replacement setup DIRT cheap.
03-23-2011, 10:20 PM
#22
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DONT BUY anything FOR A 10-BOLT!!!
The higher ratio you get in these things, the WEAKER they are!!! If you put 4.10's in there, all you did was take a ticking time bomb that had 5 minutes left on the timer, and knocked it down to 2 and a half! The teeth are weaker the higher up you go and all you did was expedite the process!
Take that money and save it for something better!!! Seriously!
The higher ratio you get in these things, the WEAKER they are!!! If you put 4.10's in there, all you did was take a ticking time bomb that had 5 minutes left on the timer, and knocked it down to 2 and a half! The teeth are weaker the higher up you go and all you did was expedite the process!
Take that money and save it for something better!!! Seriously!
Seriously. The best option if you wanna better gear in an A4 car is to buy a used 3.42 from an M6 for cheap. Best option if you are already M6 is prob to just keep your eye out for a cheap spare. Then save all your change for a stronger rearend later.
03-23-2011, 10:25 PM
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lol, I was just referring to what riceburner said, but I agree, don't wast cash on a 10-bolt!
If anyone with an auto wants some 3.42's I have a set cheap! The mechanic said my gears are great, it was just my carrier that broke. So I will sell what I got cheap! lol
If anyone with an auto wants some 3.42's I have a set cheap! The mechanic said my gears are great, it was just my carrier that broke. So I will sell what I got cheap! lol
03-23-2011, 11:42 PM
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lol, I dont know when it happened exactly because I didnt actually get any symptoms until the next day...
I raced 2 times Sat night in Mexico...both times I launched HARD, but I think the 2nd was harder than the first...I launch with my 2-step at 3700 and I shift at 6300 with an rpm limiter at 6600. After the races I drove straight home...no hot rodding. I noticed the first symptoms on Sunday morning when I heard a popping sound and couldnt figure out what it was...it was so loud it resonated through the entire car so I couldnt really pinpoint it.
Shortly after that I was parking the car and it seemed like the front right tire was binding up on me and the car started lurching and popping and it SOUNDED and FELT like the front right tire had frozen up. I called a wrecker and they took it to Midas.
I JUST installed the LS1 brakes and the alignment was WAY off so they thought that maybe it was binding up so bad that it was locking the wheel up, so they did a front end alignment and they thought the popping was the suspension...took it for a test drive and it was still doing it. I romped on it on the first straight away I got...I was sitting at 2500 rpms and I floored it and it popped, made a LOUD *** grinding sound, and the car didnt move anymore lmao! After about 5 minutes of troubleshooting I had narrowed it down to the rear end. I THOUGHT it was stripped gears...but nooooo lol. When I go out, I do it in STYLE haha
I raced 2 times Sat night in Mexico...both times I launched HARD, but I think the 2nd was harder than the first...I launch with my 2-step at 3700 and I shift at 6300 with an rpm limiter at 6600. After the races I drove straight home...no hot rodding. I noticed the first symptoms on Sunday morning when I heard a popping sound and couldnt figure out what it was...it was so loud it resonated through the entire car so I couldnt really pinpoint it.
Shortly after that I was parking the car and it seemed like the front right tire was binding up on me and the car started lurching and popping and it SOUNDED and FELT like the front right tire had frozen up. I called a wrecker and they took it to Midas.
I JUST installed the LS1 brakes and the alignment was WAY off so they thought that maybe it was binding up so bad that it was locking the wheel up, so they did a front end alignment and they thought the popping was the suspension...took it for a test drive and it was still doing it. I romped on it on the first straight away I got...I was sitting at 2500 rpms and I floored it and it popped, made a LOUD *** grinding sound, and the car didnt move anymore lmao! After about 5 minutes of troubleshooting I had narrowed it down to the rear end. I THOUGHT it was stripped gears...but nooooo lol. When I go out, I do it in STYLE haha
03-24-2011, 01:14 AM
#27
Seems to be some luck involved, but ya they are pretty much time bombs.
Heads, cam, nitrous, 6 speed, very aggressive clutch, 4.10s - never broke it.
Turbo and 640 tq, 3.42s back in it - never broke it. Oh ya on 17 MT et streets.
Rear is in another car now. Built an 8.8 before mine popped.
Heads, cam, nitrous, 6 speed, very aggressive clutch, 4.10s - never broke it.
Turbo and 640 tq, 3.42s back in it - never broke it. Oh ya on 17 MT et streets.
Rear is in another car now. Built an 8.8 before mine popped.
03-24-2011, 08:57 AM
#28
I just saw a major crash last weekend because someone broke a rear, locked the rear wheels and spun right in front of the guy in the other lane. Going to the track planning to break a rear is a bad idea IMO. About the best case scenario is that you oil down the starting line.
Why not just sell the repaired rear for $100 or something to recoup your losses for the track rental and wait until you have something that isn't going to spew guts all over the track?
Why not just sell the repaired rear for $100 or something to recoup your losses for the track rental and wait until you have something that isn't going to spew guts all over the track?
03-24-2011, 11:50 AM
#29
ouch. I have 4:10s in my 10 bolt and building a 383 supercharged motor with a 600rwhp goal. I wonder how long it will last with easy lunches on 315 street tires.... hmmmmm. My plan it to just baby it till I can get a 9 inch. BTW whats that 8.8 running you and who is making it?
03-24-2011, 06:26 PM
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yea dude, if the rear locks up when it pops at 80+ mph you can really hurt a lot more than just the rear end. I don't wanna see you mess up that car man, it's too nice. I think I'd have to punch you in the face if you wrecked it. Just sayin.
03-24-2011, 06:54 PM
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lol, I will be ok 
I paid the following prices for my 8.8 build:
$50 for the 31-Spline Explorer Carrier
$100 for the 4.10 Gears
$70 for the 8.8 Housing from a Mustang
$70 for the Motive Master Install Kit
$60 for the UMI LCA Relocation Brackets
$100 for the LS1 Rear Brakes
$100 to rebuild and powdercoat the rear brakes
$169 for the Cross Drilled and Slotted Rotors (all 4)
$15 for the Solid Pinion Spacer
Yet to be paid for:
$530 for the Moser Hardened 31-Spline Axles with GM Ends, C-Clip Eliminators, Bearings and Hardened Studs
Unknown amount for the labor, the fabrication of torque arm mount and mounting of perches/etc so it can mount in the F-Body.
So all in all so far I have 1164(ish) invested in it. Labor costs are still unknown, but shouldnt be TOO bad he said.
I am expecting to be around $1500 installed. Which is almost HALF of what anything else costs installed
The guy building it is in Denver...his name is Trent Dal Ponte and he runs a shop called Colorado Performance Unlimited. He built my tranny with absolutely NO issues so far and its been a year of beating on it lol.
I paid the following prices for my 8.8 build:
$50 for the 31-Spline Explorer Carrier
$100 for the 4.10 Gears
$70 for the 8.8 Housing from a Mustang
$70 for the Motive Master Install Kit
$60 for the UMI LCA Relocation Brackets
$100 for the LS1 Rear Brakes
$100 to rebuild and powdercoat the rear brakes
$169 for the Cross Drilled and Slotted Rotors (all 4)
$15 for the Solid Pinion Spacer
Yet to be paid for:
$530 for the Moser Hardened 31-Spline Axles with GM Ends, C-Clip Eliminators, Bearings and Hardened Studs
Unknown amount for the labor, the fabrication of torque arm mount and mounting of perches/etc so it can mount in the F-Body.
So all in all so far I have 1164(ish) invested in it. Labor costs are still unknown, but shouldnt be TOO bad he said.
I am expecting to be around $1500 installed. Which is almost HALF of what anything else costs installed
The guy building it is in Denver...his name is Trent Dal Ponte and he runs a shop called Colorado Performance Unlimited. He built my tranny with absolutely NO issues so far and its been a year of beating on it lol.
03-24-2011, 08:16 PM
#36
My Strange Dana60 was $1899. 35 spline upgraded axles, aluminum diff cover, bigger wheel studs, spool. I installed it in about 1.5-2 hours. It is ready for about 1800-2000hp.
03-25-2011, 05:25 AM
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Ellis, I plan on swapping a 12 bolt into mine soon, but it'll be out of a 69 Impala...about the same width and our stock brakes will bolt up. I will just have to run mini-ladder bars instead of a TQ arm. I am only planning to run 11's. Not to really haul like you. Anyway, I just read your location. I'd never noticed it before. LOL I have compared the LT1 to the old W motors on here several times and people thought I was nuts.
03-25-2011, 09:41 PM
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Here we go again!!! Round 2....FAIL!!! More evidence why the GM 10-Bolt is the worst idea EVER next to the Opti hahaha.
10-Bolt -2....Me -0
So the 4.10's were installed and felt AWESOME. It had a Zexel carrier and Motive 4.10's...I expected them to break but I also expected to get AT LEAST one run before they did...........the LT1's torque however, had another plan for it...
First run of the day, 3rd car on the track. I had my 2-step set at 4500 and was running the Nitto 555R's at 18lbs. Burnout was a 2nd gear and felt good as hell. I staged, and when I launched....well........just watch haha.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dLmgyXYQimA
Stripped several of the teeth off of the 4.10's! FAIL!
The stock 3.42's were good to go, and the mechanic offered to install the 3.42's to get me running again for the cost of the gear oil...he is the same guy that is building my 8.8 and he said it will be done end of next week or early week after, so I will baby the 3.42's until it is done, then take the car back to him and drop the 8.8 in...
EFF the 10-Bolt though!! WASTE OF TIME ANT MONEY!
This is just more proof of that cause this had a TA Girdle on it as well.
10-Bolt -2....Me -0
So the 4.10's were installed and felt AWESOME. It had a Zexel carrier and Motive 4.10's...I expected them to break but I also expected to get AT LEAST one run before they did...........the LT1's torque however, had another plan for it...
First run of the day, 3rd car on the track. I had my 2-step set at 4500 and was running the Nitto 555R's at 18lbs. Burnout was a 2nd gear and felt good as hell. I staged, and when I launched....well........just watch haha.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dLmgyXYQimA
Stripped several of the teeth off of the 4.10's! FAIL!
The stock 3.42's were good to go, and the mechanic offered to install the 3.42's to get me running again for the cost of the gear oil...he is the same guy that is building my 8.8 and he said it will be done end of next week or early week after, so I will baby the 3.42's until it is done, then take the car back to him and drop the 8.8 in...
EFF the 10-Bolt though!! WASTE OF TIME ANT MONEY!
This is just more proof of that cause this had a TA Girdle on it as well.
