Lets build a 383 ? "forum group effort"
04-24-2011, 09:31 PM
#41
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I built my car with a no-chances, no-compromises mentality, which has served me VERY well so far, and it seems like you're doing both. I've seen the results of such an approach and it isn't pretty.
Just my humble opinion, that's all.
Oh, and you want to daily-drive a HUGE cam and a small stall with low static compression - that doesn't make any sense whatsoever. Just sayin'.
Just my humble opinion, that's all.
Oh, and you want to daily-drive a HUGE cam and a small stall with low static compression - that doesn't make any sense whatsoever. Just sayin'.
Last edited by defaultexistence; 10-13-2011 at 09:33 PM.
04-24-2011, 09:39 PM
#42
I will admit that I misread your post about the cam/stall usage; thought you were using that Cam Motions grind, so my apology there.
But why "try" using a crank with a well-documented history of failure in low HP-low RPM conditions, especially when it can do a LOT of damage if it lets go (trashed block, cam, heads, pistons, crank, you name it)? You're putting all of your other parts at risk, all for what?
That's all I'm saying.
But why "try" using a crank with a well-documented history of failure in low HP-low RPM conditions, especially when it can do a LOT of damage if it lets go (trashed block, cam, heads, pistons, crank, you name it)? You're putting all of your other parts at risk, all for what?
That's all I'm saying.
04-25-2011, 02:35 PM
#43
Good deal but Not the best deal. I got a brand new 383 with only engine dyno time, eagle forged crank, h-beams, SRP -16cc pistons, ARP hardware, Opti, comp lifters, Prof Products SFI ballancer, melling pump, HD timing set and a few other things, for $350. Could have just ran it but I wanted it done my way.
So I dropped it off at Speedinc its getting the rods and crank checked, a new fresh cleaned & machined block with new SRP -5cc pistons, Howards billet splayed caps, half fill, new bearings all around, new ARP main studs, rebalanced with custom pistons rings. Ill have about 2k in it when done. Should have it back any day.
So I dropped it off at Speedinc its getting the rods and crank checked, a new fresh cleaned & machined block with new SRP -5cc pistons, Howards billet splayed caps, half fill, new bearings all around, new ARP main studs, rebalanced with custom pistons rings. Ill have about 2k in it when done. Should have it back any day.
04-25-2011, 03:36 PM
#44
I have a small question... You said you can't find the parting line on the crank? If that's the case and there aren't any tool marks to indicate that it was ground down, I would say more than likely you have a forged crank. Since cast cranks leave a very sharp, defined parting line you would most definitely see it. I have see quality forgings that it has been almost impossible to see the parting line. From what I've seen in your pics, I'd say forged. But that's me. Maybe try calling Scat and see if they can help you out, as from the what you've seen it may be one of theirs. If that's the case even if it was cast I wouldn't be too afraid of their crank. Unless you go over 550-600 flywheel I don't see you having an issue with it. Scat is very high quality. Part of the reason you pay more for their stuff than you do for Eagle.
As for re balancing, yes it can be done. If you're worried about the balance, take the crank rods and pistons to the machine shop and let them do their thing. Or you could pop the old pistons, pins and locks off the rods and get a scale and weigh them against your new pieces. If they're the same or +/- a gram or two I wouldn't worry about it. But if they vary significantly have it done.
G/L with your steal!
As for re balancing, yes it can be done. If you're worried about the balance, take the crank rods and pistons to the machine shop and let them do their thing. Or you could pop the old pistons, pins and locks off the rods and get a scale and weigh them against your new pieces. If they're the same or +/- a gram or two I wouldn't worry about it. But if they vary significantly have it done.
G/L with your steal!
04-27-2011, 09:26 AM
#50
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So i'm going to get an eagle forged crank..what timing set should I get I'm not going to run the stock gear WP gear anymore, EWP only... If it matters ,in a 93 timing cover.
Last edited by defaultexistence; 10-13-2011 at 09:36 PM.
04-27-2011, 09:34 AM
#51
So i'm going to get an eagle forged crank..as it stands this motor is going to be 11:3:1 CR .. What head gasket should I use to bring that down to the low 10's? I may add a blower down the road... will be using nitrous untill then
Any pros and cons on 11:1 CR Vs 10:1 CR?
Also what timing set should I get I'm not going to run the stock gear WP gear anymore, EWP only... If it matters ,in a 93 timing cover.
Any pros and cons on 11:1 CR Vs 10:1 CR?
Also what timing set should I get I'm not going to run the stock gear WP gear anymore, EWP only... If it matters ,in a 93 timing cover.
04-27-2011, 11:37 AM
#52
standard I believe is .041 crushed.
the felpro 1074 is .039 crushed.
the impala is .029 crushed.
the victor reinz i think is .026 crushed.
use this to figure it out based on the different head gaskets.
http://www.kb-silvolite.com/calc.php?action=comp
here are my results...
the felpro 1074 is .039 crushed.
the impala is .029 crushed.
the victor reinz i think is .026 crushed.
use this to figure it out based on the different head gaskets.
http://www.kb-silvolite.com/calc.php?action=comp
here are my results...
Last edited by merim123; 04-27-2011 at 11:42 AM. Reason: image
04-27-2011, 01:31 PM
#54
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Yes engine is a 383, this block isn't decked .030 over bore... 3.75 stroke...
Last edited by defaultexistence; 10-13-2011 at 09:37 PM.
04-27-2011, 04:57 PM
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Yep I still did, got forged eagle 6" H-beams, New forged SRP 383 pistons and a Moroso oil pan.. All i will use. Also came with a 96-97 timing cover and sensor,Questionable crank , cam, and a block i'm not reuseing all for 1,000 bucks .
SO,
SOLD the block for $400, sold the timing cover for $100.. so it's down to $500 and still have a cam to sell and a crank to try and sell... So can we please stay on topic ... I really do need help . OK?
SO,
SOLD the block for $400, sold the timing cover for $100.. so it's down to $500 and still have a cam to sell and a crank to try and sell... So can we please stay on topic ... I really do need help . OK?
Last edited by defaultexistence; 04-27-2011 at 05:26 PM.