Procharger + Crank Pulley Installation?
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Procharger + Crank Pulley Installation?
So I'm trying to install my crank pulley with the Procharger extension on it. Is there a particular method or pattern the bolts need to be reassembled in?
I've twice now painstakingly gotten two bolts in(hub is in Y shape after opti replacement) and twice the third bolt will not line up in fact it has been nearly a quarter inch off. I feel like I'm missing something here..
Any thoughts?
I've twice now painstakingly gotten two bolts in(hub is in Y shape after opti replacement) and twice the third bolt will not line up in fact it has been nearly a quarter inch off. I feel like I'm missing something here..
Any thoughts?
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Can you spin things until you see all of them line up? Third time would be the charm if you have done it twice with the third not lining up. The pulley itself has one bolt hole which is slotted a bit so keep that in mind as well.
Btw, how much boost are you looking to run?
Btw, how much boost are you looking to run?
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I have spun it yes but it doesn't seem like they want to line up. This slotted hole you refer to.. would this be the one I should start with? Any other advice is appreciated, this has been most frustrating.
and I'm aiming to boost 10lbs.
and I'm aiming to boost 10lbs.
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Try starting with the slotted hole and then see what happens. In all honesty, if its not lining up then they may have shipped you the wrong spacer. Mistakes happen but just for reference, I was shipped a F1 head unit, not a F1-A as it was ordered....whoops lol.
At that boost level, you may want to consider going to a big block crank hub from ATI. You will need to have the timing cover machined along with a new damper but its good insurance against the stresses the system will put on your crank hub. The spacer will also need to be machined to line up with the new hub. This may sound like a lot more than just getting the proper spacer but again, good to do it right.
Lonnies Perf. is a sponsor here and knows all about this stuff so feel free to contact him.
At that boost level, you may want to consider going to a big block crank hub from ATI. You will need to have the timing cover machined along with a new damper but its good insurance against the stresses the system will put on your crank hub. The spacer will also need to be machined to line up with the new hub. This may sound like a lot more than just getting the proper spacer but again, good to do it right.
Lonnies Perf. is a sponsor here and knows all about this stuff so feel free to contact him.
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Had the same problem 5 yrs ago. Not sure what dampner you are running but if an ATI, you'll have to get the dampner off and crank blower puller taken to a machinist to redo the holes. I had to have mine custom made out of billet aluminum but I kept my orginal spacer as well. The other problem I found is the snub that fits into the crank pulley was not the same dimension so the spacer sloshed around on the crank...so it never really lines up and will cause your blower pulley to stress and possible snap the studs. But you can see what I'm talking about here.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BpFHfjt--Ho
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BpFHfjt--Ho
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Had the same problem 5 yrs ago. Not sure what dampner you are running but if an ATI, you'll have to get the dampner off and crank blower puller taken to a machinist to redo the holes. I had to have mine custom made out of billet aluminum but I kept my orginal spacer as well. The other problem I found is the snub that fits into the crank pulley was not the same dimension so the spacer sloshed around on the crank...so it never really lines up and will cause your blower pulley to stress and possible snap the studs. But you can see what I'm talking about here.
I'm headed back out there soon, I posted this after getting frustrated last night. I'll let you know if I can't find a way to make this work.
Last edited by Masochist; 04-01-2011 at 02:02 PM.
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Had the same problem 5 yrs ago. Not sure what dampner you are running but if an ATI, you'll have to get the dampner off and crank blower puller taken to a machinist to redo the holes. I had to have mine custom made out of billet aluminum but I kept my orginal spacer as well. The other problem I found is the snub that fits into the crank pulley was not the same dimension so the spacer sloshed around on the crank...so it never really lines up and will cause your blower pulley to stress and possible snap the studs. But you can see what I'm talking about here.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BpFHfjt--Ho
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BpFHfjt--Ho
Wow.. with that, it's worth mentioning that this kit has been on this car for many years and I myself have removed/reinstalled this assembly less than a year ago. The setup really is quite mild. Could this issue really just crop up out of nowhere after years of effective running?
I'm headed back out there soon, I posted this after getting frustrated last night. I'll let you know if I can't find a way to make this work.
I'm headed back out there soon, I posted this after getting frustrated last night. I'll let you know if I can't find a way to make this work.