Dyno Results: Remote Mount Turbo Lt1
04-03-2011, 05:03 PM
#21
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We're not fighting. This is me. Winning...
Congrats on the numbers BTW.
I just hope you might be able to learn something to help you out with your car. The tune obviously needs some work. It will run better if you back the timing off, get to a proper air fuel ratio, and then start feeding the timing back in. READ THE PLUGS.
Congrats on the numbers BTW.
I just hope you might be able to learn something to help you out with your car. The tune obviously needs some work. It will run better if you back the timing off, get to a proper air fuel ratio, and then start feeding the timing back in. READ THE PLUGS.
lol
thanks for the link to that video, definitely interesting and insightful
i can try to post up the log if anyone's interested. spark timing maxed at 27 with the knock retard at 7. i'm sure we can get it running a lot better! now it's just a matter of me fixing the wiring on my lc-1 and doing some more logs
04-03-2011, 05:50 PM
#22
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Assume dude, makes me miss my turbo 99 t/a .. Thinking I may boost again after my 383 forged motor build 
.. Poor 10 bolt and 700r4 ain't gonna like me for long
.. Poor 10 bolt and 700r4 ain't gonna like me for long 
04-03-2011, 10:58 PM
#27
Running that rich is just lazy tuning. A lot of people incorrectly think running a boosted setup overly rich cools the intake charge and is therefore "safer". What's actually happenin is the rich condition slows sown the burn rate in the cylinder and effectively retards timing.
An engine will run better when ran near the same air fuel ratio as a max power N/A setup, and then having the CORRECT amount of timing.
Tuners run FI and Nitrous setups overly rich all the time and justify it many many ways but its simply laziness and lack of education.
The engine will live longer and happier with the proper tune, not a hacked tune that has too much timing, and too much fuel to make up for it.
An engine will run better when ran near the same air fuel ratio as a max power N/A setup, and then having the CORRECT amount of timing.
Tuners run FI and Nitrous setups overly rich all the time and justify it many many ways but its simply laziness and lack of education.
The engine will live longer and happier with the proper tune, not a hacked tune that has too much timing, and too much fuel to make up for it.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/13401615-post8.html
04-03-2011, 11:13 PM
#28
I ran out of dyno time. Pretty sure I said that in the post.
Regardless, 12.6 isn't bad, dips a little richer before that but like I said I didn't have time to make it perfect.
Go get a life. All you do is wait til someone says something you can disagree with.
**edited before the popos jump me.
Regardless, 12.6 isn't bad, dips a little richer before that but like I said I didn't have time to make it perfect.
Go get a life. All you do is wait til someone says something you can disagree with.
**edited before the popos jump me.
Last edited by gregrob; 04-04-2011 at 01:54 AM.
04-03-2011, 11:16 PM
#29
I agree with the man myself.
04-03-2011, 11:30 PM
#30
I ran out of dyno time you little bitch. Pretty sure I said that in the post.
Regardless, 12.6 isn't bad, dips a little richer before that but like I said I didn't have time to make it perfect.
Go get a ******* life. All you do is wait til someone says something your stupid bitch *** can disagree with.
Regardless, 12.6 isn't bad, dips a little richer before that but like I said I didn't have time to make it perfect.
Go get a ******* life. All you do is wait til someone says something your stupid bitch *** can disagree with.
04-03-2011, 11:52 PM
#31
Man those numbers are definatly inspiring! And the longevity, is there any chance thats just due to the excessivly rich tune (or have i got that backwards?). I hope my car can make near those numbers on stock interals and last a year before blowing up!
04-04-2011, 12:18 AM
#32
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I ran out of dyno time you little bitch. Pretty sure I said that in the post.
Regardless, 12.6 isn't bad, dips a little richer before that but like I said I didn't have time to make it perfect.
Go get a ******* life. All you do is wait til someone says something your stupid bitch *** can disagree with.
Regardless, 12.6 isn't bad, dips a little richer before that but like I said I didn't have time to make it perfect.
Go get a ******* life. All you do is wait til someone says something your stupid bitch *** can disagree with.
Now even if you're God's gift to automotive tuning you need to understand that you sound like a dumbshit when you post things like you did above. Try and grow up a little. This attitude you have will only cause you embarrassment in the long run.
04-04-2011, 12:33 AM
#33
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This is a link I had laying around as I'm constantly reading what the Turbo manufacturers are posting about the technical aspects of turbocharging.
http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbob...o_tech103.html
What's funny is they actually use a 12:1 ration example for the boosted calculations. Just search for Air/Fuel and you'll find where they state that.
http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbob...o_tech103.html
What's funny is they actually use a 12:1 ration example for the boosted calculations. Just search for Air/Fuel and you'll find where they state that.
04-04-2011, 12:46 AM
#34
12:1 will run fine, and has some "safety" built into it, but it's pushing the limit of how rich I like to run things.
You're not arguing with me here, you're arguing with physics.
Just because everyone does it doesn't make it right. I couldn't care less what other tuners do. I do things the way I do because that's what I've found to work the best.
If you disagree, so be it
You're not arguing with me here, you're arguing with physics.
Just because everyone does it doesn't make it right. I couldn't care less what other tuners do. I do things the way I do because that's what I've found to work the best.
If you disagree, so be it
04-04-2011, 01:06 AM
#35
12:1 will run fine, and has some "safety" built into it, but it's pushing the limit of how rich I like to run things.
You're not arguing with me here, you're arguing with physics.
Just because everyone does it doesn't make it right. I couldn't care less what other tuners do. I do things the way I do because that's what I've found to work the best.
If you disagree, so be it
You're not arguing with me here, you're arguing with physics.
Just because everyone does it doesn't make it right. I couldn't care less what other tuners do. I do things the way I do because that's what I've found to work the best.
If you disagree, so be it
That aside, is there any harm, aside from power loss, in running on the rich side? And could that weigh against the possibility of keeping the stock shortblock alive a bit longer?
Just curious, im really not in the know on this, and im curious as to how that shortblock has survived for so long.
04-04-2011, 01:21 AM
#36
Depends on how rich. 12:1 no, in my opinion 11:1 and richer, yes.
You throw too much timing at it because its "not knocking" because you have the cylinder washed down and then you end up either creating too much cylinder pressure, lighting off part of the charge either before or after the combustion event is "supposed" to happen, or you fail to atomize the fuel at all and end up trying to compress liquid and cause a lot of damage.
You can see this by hotspots on the piston crown, and if it's bad enough you can pinch or blow out a ring land, possibly without ever having detectable knock.
Is that going to happen as soon as you cross past 11:1? Probably not, but how far down that road do you want to go?
I feel it's best to run the A/F where it should be, then put the timing where it should be for the correct A/F, then sleep well at night.
You throw too much timing at it because its "not knocking" because you have the cylinder washed down and then you end up either creating too much cylinder pressure, lighting off part of the charge either before or after the combustion event is "supposed" to happen, or you fail to atomize the fuel at all and end up trying to compress liquid and cause a lot of damage.
You can see this by hotspots on the piston crown, and if it's bad enough you can pinch or blow out a ring land, possibly without ever having detectable knock.
Is that going to happen as soon as you cross past 11:1? Probably not, but how far down that road do you want to go?
I feel it's best to run the A/F where it should be, then put the timing where it should be for the correct A/F, then sleep well at night
. Last edited by gregrob; 04-04-2011 at 01:48 AM.
04-04-2011, 01:07 PM
#40
Some bad info here from Gregrob with regards to FI tuning. Mid 11's AFR is where you want to be for your app and is optimum on our combos. Look at forced induction section for the real info.
On race gas you can get into the 12's but not on pump. If 12.1 is as rich as you want to run you will be buying motors by the dozen. Your engine will be on borrowed time forged or not. Altitude does change things somewhat so this is aimed at the majority who don't live on top of a mountain.
On race gas you can get into the 12's but not on pump. If 12.1 is as rich as you want to run you will be buying motors by the dozen. Your engine will be on borrowed time forged or not. Altitude does change things somewhat so this is aimed at the majority who don't live on top of a mountain.