LT1-LT4 Modifications 1993-97 Gen II Small Block V8

My cammed LT1 is a dog on the dyno...HELP!

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Old 04-13-2011, 03:59 PM
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Originally Posted by SS RRR
No it can't. It is physically impossible since an auto has a fluid connection between engine and transmission. If what you state "... not intentionally" having anything to do with the tool behind the tuning software, then I agree.
I love your new Avatar.
Old 04-13-2011, 04:15 PM
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Originally Posted by 05HD
I love your new Avatar.
My avatar loves you. Without question. Now, care to explain this?

Originally Posted by 05HD
Also, power can get lost in a 6 speed driveline just as easily as an automatic one, just not intentionally.
Old 04-13-2011, 04:36 PM
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Originally Posted by SS RRR
My avatar loves you. Without question. Now, care to explain this?
Nah, not right now. I'm sure you can figure it out if you think about it for a while. If not, I will explain for you later.
Old 04-13-2011, 06:18 PM
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In other words, whatever source you use is not available therefore buying time is the only viable option. When you get your info, go ahead and copy paste.
Old 04-14-2011, 04:51 AM
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Old 04-18-2011, 10:58 AM
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So I finally got an update on the slow LT-1; took it to the old Pontiac, now GMC/buick dealership that my buddy is a service manager at and had one of the better mechanics who knows what he's doing adjust the valves/rockers; he did it turning over the motor doing each cylinder at a time right in front of me so at least I have an idea of how to do it now. He said a few rockers were a little loose but nothing major to cause that much power loss. After driving it, it feels a little better but not 320 RWHP fast...I'm going to drive it this week to see how bad the gas mileage is; I'm thinking the lack of power and mileage has got to be related. I'm either going to have to race my own other car with my friend driving on the highway or take it to Z-Max dragway in a couple months to see if it's making the power it should by the trap speed. In the meantime, I still want to get a leak down test done for my peace of mind and to eliminate a compression issue; what's a decent price for this on a LT-1?
Old 04-20-2011, 11:29 AM
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Damn...it's one thing after another with this car; I get the rockers adjusted and a header gasket blows out! FYI don't use the gaskets that come with pacesetters...they suck. I put in new AC delco O2's because one of my old ones was "lazy" when dyno tuned and it STILL gets 9-10 MPG....I've gone through a half tank of $4.10 premium in 75 miles **** guzzles gas like a blown big block except none of the power I can't afford to keep driving the car till I get some answers on WTF is going on. The guy that rebuilt the motor is gong to take off my headers, do the leak down test, and change all the plugs to NKG TR55's next week....all for $150 which is not bad at all for the time it would take; another shop quoted $250. Any advice or recommendations on what else to look at? Pretty much eliminated a fuel issue due to the AFR on the dyno chart all the way to 6500, all ignition parts replaced recently (except opti...car is on it's 3rd at 145K), all sensors replaced or working normally, computers been tuned TWICE, exhaust/ cold air intake are brand new, cat hollowed...no kinks ect, compression is questionable until next week;....where else should I be looking? What would you do if was your car? (I'm not burning it or selling to some 16 year old yet)
Old 04-20-2011, 11:56 AM
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Originally Posted by ahritchie
Damn...it's one thing after another with this car; I get the rockers adjusted and a header gasket blows out! FYI don't use the gaskets that come with pacesetters...they suck. I put in new AC delco O2's because one of my old ones was "lazy" when dyno tuned and it STILL gets 9-10 MPG....I've gone through a half tank of $4.10 premium in 75 miles **** guzzles gas like a blown big block except none of the power I can't afford to keep driving the car till I get some answers on WTF is going on. The guy that rebuilt the motor is gong to take off my headers, do the leak down test, and change all the plugs to NKG TR55's next week....all for $150 which is not bad at all for the time it would take; another shop quoted $250. Any advice or recommendations on what else to look at? Pretty much eliminated a fuel issue due to the AFR on the dyno chart all the way to 6500, all ignition parts replaced recently (except opti...car is on it's 3rd at 145K), all sensors replaced or working normally, computers been tuned TWICE, exhaust/ cold air intake are brand new, cat hollowed...no kinks ect, compression is questionable until next week;....where else should I be looking? What would you do if was your car? (I'm not burning it or selling to some 16 year old yet)
Who tuned it, how much timing are you running and how much knock are you getting? I had to pull 10-15 degrees down low and that allowed me to add some up top and I gained CONSIDERABLE power doing so.

I'm guessing it's in the tune. So... who tuned it? If you said it i'm not searching the thread to find it out.
Old 04-20-2011, 12:57 PM
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Originally Posted by LSWHO
Who tuned it, how much timing are you running and how much knock are you getting? I had to pull 10-15 degrees down low and that allowed me to add some up top and I gained CONSIDERABLE power doing so.

I'm guessing it's in the tune. So... who tuned it? If you said it i'm not searching the thread to find it out.
It's been tuned by Bryan from PCM for less and a local dyno shop Sigma six dyno services in Concord NC. How do you tell how much timing it's running? The dyno tuner said my car was not pulling timing and it actually took MORE timing than usual to make power than a normal LT1. It's not getting any knock I'm aware of; I got a LT4 knock module in the computer already and I only run 93 octane.
Old 04-20-2011, 01:34 PM
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Originally Posted by ahritchie
It's been tuned by Bryan from PCM for less and a local dyno shop Sigma six dyno services in Concord NC. How do you tell how much timing it's running? The dyno tuner said my car was not pulling timing and it actually took MORE timing than usual to make power than a normal LT1. It's not getting any knock I'm aware of; I got a LT4 knock module in the computer already and I only run 93 octane.
You have to scan it to find out about timing. My car was **** slow with the mail tune. I'm still tweaking it, but it's taking a lot more timing up top now that I've lowered the low rpms so much. I've seen considerable gains in trap speed.

Get a local guy to scan your car around town.
Old 04-20-2011, 02:33 PM
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Sounds like cam timing is way off. Sometimes the timing sets with multiple keyways can get you in trouble.
Old 04-20-2011, 02:51 PM
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Originally Posted by 96lt4c4
Sounds like cam timing is way off. Sometimes the timing sets with multiple keyways can get you in trouble.
How do know if this is the case? The guy who rebuilt it said there's only 1 way to install the cam...dot to dot. A new timing chain and gears were put in at the same time is the cam.
Old 04-20-2011, 03:09 PM
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Originally Posted by transbird95
Ls1's have problems too.... Take your time and be patient.
Maybe so but I miss mine. My 02 a4 formula with pacesetter headers, tsp y pipe, 3.23 gears, tune and a slp lid ran a 12.6 in the 1/4 and 8.15 in the 1/8th...
Old 04-20-2011, 04:46 PM
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Clutch slipping?
Old 04-21-2011, 09:04 AM
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Originally Posted by WS Sick
Clutch slipping?
Nope....brand new RAM HDX clutch
Old 04-21-2011, 09:38 AM
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Originally Posted by ahritchie
How do know if this is the case? The guy who rebuilt it said there's only 1 way to install the cam...dot to dot. A new timing chain and gears were put in at the same time is the cam.
When the cam was installed, did you degree the cam? If the grind was off you can install it dot to dot but the timing of the valves could still be off.

I installed my LE2 h/c 8 years ago and my cam was off by just under a 1/2 degree. I didn't feel it was worth me buying a multiple keywayed timing set. Car still made over 400@ the wheels so I was happy.

Good luck
Old 04-21-2011, 10:03 AM
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Originally Posted by WS Sick
Clutch slipping?
Even if it were slipping per se it most likely wouldn't be enough to be picked up on a DD dyno since there is no load on the rollers.
Old 04-21-2011, 11:27 AM
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Originally Posted by SS RRR
Even if it were slipping per se it most likely wouldn't be enough to be picked up on a DD dyno since there is no load on the rollers.
That would be true unless the clutch is only slipping at higher rpms, Ive had that happen even with the wheels in the air and it acted normally driving around town (but that was a centerforce and we know how those things are)
Old 04-21-2011, 09:56 PM
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so this has been going on how long and you haven't raced your other car yet? that is the first thing i would have done after getting the car off the rollers. at the very least confirm it is down on power and your assdyno/other dyno is not just reading low for unknown reasons.

although, i'd guess the lsjuan would be pullin on the lt1 regardless of how well it was or wasn't running
Old 04-23-2011, 08:28 AM
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Originally Posted by ahritchie
How do know if this is the case? The guy who rebuilt it said there's only 1 way to install the cam...dot to dot. A new timing chain and gears were put in at the same time is the cam.
You can still install it dot to dot and have one of the keyway slots in the wrong place. I have seen it done. The engine ran like crap, and was way low on power. The valves were also hitting the pistons, one finally broke and locked it up. Upon tear down I found the timing set was installed wrong.

I know it sucks to take down a new engine but thats what needs to be done. I would do a compresion check on it first though.


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