LT1 with a stubborn lifter tick
TECH Veteran
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 4,985
Likes: 112
used the cranes when I did my build
these are another option
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MEL-JB-2079/
these are another option
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MEL-JB-2079/
Registered User
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 15
Likes: 0
From: Tulsa, Ok
thought when you adjust the rocker arms you have to do both heads together...? first half of ex/in rockers at TDC on cyl 1 and the second half at TDC on cyl 6? just my 2 cents. trying to be smart but im sure im failing right now 
IMHO, since the LT1s have aluminum heads, and iron blocks, and those materials "move" diferently when fully up to temperature, I think the lash should be set with the engine running, and fully up to temp. When I was messing with the CompRs, that's how I got the best results. However, this means that you're using "poly-locks".
But that's just my $0.02 worth.....
If you want to read about a whole lot of dumb fuckery, here you go:
http://www.camaroz28.com/forums/showthread.php?t=394574
http://www.camaroz28.com/forums/showthread.php?t=394574
WOW!! A 15 page discussion on valve lifters. One thing that I did learn from all that, is that I unfortunately have the "later" CompR lifters....maybe as a "science project", I'll find the right size "snap ring" and install them in the lifters, in case I ever want to use them again....
The point is, it doesn't matter what snap ring you have in place, as long as your valve train is set up properly you will not have a problem. Contrary to popular belief that snap ring does nothing but hold the plunger in place when the lifters have no load on them (ie when they are not installed). Those who have broken the snap ring had stability issues with their valvetrain. The ring used in later lifters, granted looks to be more fragile with a shorter life expectancy if they become an integral part of opening and shutting a valve.
Good point, I agree...
The point is, it doesn't matter what snap ring you have in place, as long as your valve train is set up properly you will not have a problem. Contrary to popular belief that snap ring does nothing but hold the plunger in place when the lifters have no load on them (ie when they are not installed). Those who have broken the snap ring had stability issues with their valvetrain. The ring used in later lifters, granted looks to be more fragile with a shorter life expectancy if they become an integral part of opening and shutting a valve.
You should have seen the pics posted when that thread first came about. In almost every case, the clips/rings had been HAMMERED, as in the pushrod walked off the plunger and beat the ring to ****, and people want to blame the lifters...
I have a set of newer R's that I ran w/ an 847 cam for 10K miles. Still in great shape. Hope to use them again for something.
I have a set of newer R's that I ran w/ an 847 cam for 10K miles. Still in great shape. Hope to use them again for something.
You can do it that way, however there seems to be a bit of differing opinions on whether the lash should be set with the engine running or not.
IMHO, since the LT1s have aluminum heads, and iron blocks, and those materials "move" diferently when fully up to temperature, I think the lash should be set with the engine running, and fully up to temp. When I was messing with the CompRs, that's how I got the best results. However, this means that you're using "poly-locks".
But that's just my $0.02 worth.....
IMHO, since the LT1s have aluminum heads, and iron blocks, and those materials "move" diferently when fully up to temperature, I think the lash should be set with the engine running, and fully up to temp. When I was messing with the CompRs, that's how I got the best results. However, this means that you're using "poly-locks".
But that's just my $0.02 worth.....
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Verdad Gallardo ....sbc motors including lt1's with aluminum heads and iron block experience about a .005-.006 expansion growth from heat.......i set mine .006 tighter when cold so when its hot they open up......i lash tight .012 cold so im only .017 hot........as for doing this whith a hydraulic cam I'm not sure if it would even matter..... .006 to a hydraulic cam is negligible
Teching In
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
From: Hobart, IN
i have a 97 z28, stock lt1 and all. i think my lifters are all bad. i started hearing the ticking/knocking when i got off the freeway. we stethascoped it and it sounded like it was right under the valve cover. pulled the covers off and its not any of the rockers, keepers, springs or anything. so we pulled the whole top off, the lifters look worn to the metal, they didnt even wanna come out. so obviously im replacing them but i would really like some help/input on what kind i should get. for right now im keeping the car stock replacing almost everything with oem parts. but im not sure what kind i should get...decent in price and reliable are what im looking for. help/advise/tips?
