Thank you I was going to go with a Scat forged crank also but I've heard the stock crank can with stand a lot so there is no need for it

 

that is also correct. It all depends on goals and funds. If you're just building a DD then more than likely stock rods and crank will be more than enough for you. Consider stepping up to some forged pistons if you're going to add boost or spray, but aside from that the factory did a decent job designing the bottom end as far as longevity is concerned

 

Yep I'm not gunna spray it but I know the crank can handle a lot but the pistons and rods not as much so I'm gunna upgrade those parts

 

The stock rod with a good set of upgraded rod bolts should hold 500hp. (with a proper balance job of course...) Only if you were planning on using a TON of spray/boost or a race motor that could take advantage of the extra dwell time of TDC and BDC the 5.7" rods are just fine. Stock crank works very well for what many people will use. Be sure to have the assembly balanced; it is critical for any good running motor to last.

 

When reassembling the motor what should I do to the crank?

 

what exactly are you asking?

is this after the assembly is balanced?

 

When I break down the stock motor what should I do to the crank before I assemble everything again

 

put it in a plastic bag and send it and your rods and pistons to the balance shop....

if you are not going to balance it mark everything and put it back the way you got it out.

 

What is balancing for?

 

It is just like a wheel. If it is unbalanced it requires more power to turn it, uses more fuel, and vibrates. If balanced it spins faster, requires less power to move, and keeps unwanted pressure off the bearings.

 

Oh ok is polishing the stock crank necessary or not?

 

polishing of the journals will most likely be required, or they will be turned down. that is done to give the journal a mirror like finish because they are smoothed out. Chances are more than likely it will need to be turned, which is not costly or bad in any way. It only means you will need bearings. Your best bet is to take the block, crank, rods, and pistons to the machine shop of your choice. Tell them you would like it balanced and the rotating assembly installed with new cam bearings and freeze plugs. You'll want to have the block tanked as well to make sure you have a clean slate. Let them know you plan on spraying it and how much, as it affects ring gap, and piston to wall clearances. If you want to be using it as more of a weekend/strip car you can have them set the bearing tolerances "loose". instead of .002-.0025" of clearance they can set you up with closer to .003" which will have the crank and rods riding on more of a layer of oil. Now it's been debated as to weather or not it makes more power, but I've seen it work. plus it will allow you to run a slightly thicker oil. When you get it back it will be a new shortblock ready for you to slide in your cam, timing set, and heads and intake. There are plenty of options on what you can do. A tighter motor will last a bit longer in theory since eventually it will loosen up but it will be down the road. It also allows you to run thinner oil (ie. 5w20 or 5w30) depending on how tight it is put together. Find a reputable shop and go talk to them about options and what you want to do with it. Or give Corey at Clayton a ring and I'm sure he can set you up with something for about the same as you would spend trying to do all the leg work yourself.

 

Thanks for the info guys