355 build advice
Thread Starter
TECH Regular
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 452
Likes: 0
From: Sacramento, CA
355 build advice I am in the process of pulling the LT1 out through the bottom and would like to start ordering the necessary parts for the build. 12x,xxx miles.
plans:
355 build with
-speed pro pistons
-sealed power rings
-clevite bearings
-Re-use stock crank and rods
-ARP rod and main bolts
-LE2 heads / 226/230 cam
First questions are
1. Any advice on overall setup or any advice for installation.
2. Oil pump? stock replacement or melling 10554? any other opinions would be helpful.
3. which injectors.. hate ford but research leads me to SVO 30# injectors.
4. Head gaskets for ~11:1 cr. I know its too early to tell but assuming least amount of material would be milled from heads, which head gaskets are recommended?
5. would the stock TB be restricting much power? would a 52mm professional products be worth it?
6. Should the stock water pump be replaced at this time.
I know I asked Sh*t load of questions.. but im on a college budget and want to get it done right the first time.
plans:
355 build with
-speed pro pistons
-sealed power rings
-clevite bearings
-Re-use stock crank and rods
-ARP rod and main bolts
-LE2 heads / 226/230 cam
First questions are
1. Any advice on overall setup or any advice for installation.
2. Oil pump? stock replacement or melling 10554? any other opinions would be helpful.
3. which injectors.. hate ford but research leads me to SVO 30# injectors.
4. Head gaskets for ~11:1 cr. I know its too early to tell but assuming least amount of material would be milled from heads, which head gaskets are recommended?
5. would the stock TB be restricting much power? would a 52mm professional products be worth it?
6. Should the stock water pump be replaced at this time.
I know I asked Sh*t load of questions.. but im on a college budget and want to get it done right the first time.
Thread Starter
TECH Regular
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 452
Likes: 0
From: Sacramento, CA
but you did remind me that i still don't know which timing set to use. would a replacement LT1 or LT4 chain work fine? read something about over sized crank gear to tighten up the slack or would a new chain on stock crank and cam gears work fine?
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Get a different piston... the speed pro's tend to be a little on the heavy side for a forged piston. a tad bit more money but your rod caps will thank you later....
a 4032 material piston is all that you need, especially if you aren't putting in H-beams, also will be a little quieter.
a 4032 material piston is all that you need, especially if you aren't putting in H-beams, also will be a little quieter.
Thread Starter
TECH Regular
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 452
Likes: 0
From: Sacramento, CA
Get a different piston... the speed pro's tend to be a little on the heavy side for a forged piston. a tad bit more money but your rod caps will thank you later....
a 4032 material piston is all that you need, especially if you aren't putting in H-beams, also will be a little quieter.
a 4032 material piston is all that you need, especially if you aren't putting in H-beams, also will be a little quieter.
what else is recommended, which brand? or even better what p/n?
Get a different piston... the speed pro's tend to be a little on the heavy side for a forged piston. a tad bit more money but your rod caps will thank you later....
a 4032 material piston is all that you need, especially if you aren't putting in H-beams, also will be a little quieter.
a 4032 material piston is all that you need, especially if you aren't putting in H-beams, also will be a little quieter.
Yep I would not run the speed pros; I bought them only to find out they were boat anchors, so I returned them. Probe 12334 pistons is what I am using; they are lighter than the stock piston http://www.probeindustries.com/Chevy...ns_p/12334.htm. victor reinz 5898 head gasket. And after reusing my rods and having arp bolts installed I realized it will not be much more for new rods, so I would also buy some new rods.
The speed pro's will work for your build. They are heavy but they will do. I would use .026 thick head gaskets. If u buy a tb just go ahead and do a 58mm. Trickflows tb are fairly cheap and are pretty decent. The svo injectors are great and will work good with ur setup. Make sure u get a dyno tune. If u can come up with the extra change pick up a set of scat forged i beam rods.
Well just for a mild application... The 4032's will expand less than the 2618's thus not requiring as much piston to wall clearance. The 2618's typically will have piston slap when warming up causing a little more wear on parts. The 4032's also have more silicon content and tend to be a little lighter also. not much lighter but any less weight you can shed on the piston tends to help rod caps from movement/stretching.
If you were going to go pretty radical on a setup or plan to push over 200 shot then yes go with the 2618.
I figured that he isn't replacing the rods with anything much stronger so no need for a piston that would hold 900 hp if the rods only hold ~550.
also the 4032's will be a little cheaper too. ya know if budget is a concern. more money for other go fast parts. (rearend, trans, tires)
If you were going to go pretty radical on a setup or plan to push over 200 shot then yes go with the 2618.
I figured that he isn't replacing the rods with anything much stronger so no need for a piston that would hold 900 hp if the rods only hold ~550.
also the 4032's will be a little cheaper too. ya know if budget is a concern. more money for other go fast parts. (rearend, trans, tires)
I see nothing wrong with the parts listed...it's a good set up..I dont know why people dont like the stock rod or speed pro parts, all the pistons manufactured today are always compared to the speed pro's..As far as the stock rods..if you have them checked and there within specs don't hesitate to use them.
If you've already got the pistons, use them. They're fine. As for the oil pump, in your situation stock replacement will be fine. Everyone says use the high pressure spring, but it's not required. Neither is high volume, unless you set up loose bearing clearances. For the timing set it depends on weather or not you are using an EWP. If you're using one, then ditch the stock for a single or double roller, either will work. There have been a large number of tests done that reveal there is no difference in HP required to turn a roller chain, gear drive, or even a belt. The only difference is when it comes to distributor timing events when parts wear out. If you are still using the mech. water pump, then it's time to upgrade your chain. The stock LT1 has a lot of slop it it, so you're better off to replace it if you're doing a rebuild. I would recommend at least a 52mm throttle body, while a 58 may not be required everyone will tell you it's a necessity. I would also recommend some 1.6 rockers, but again they are not required. I say good luck and you're on the right path to fun driver.