Shakerz1313

iTrader: (-1)

Ok im planning on rebuilding my engine very soon. I have been reading as much as I can but havent quite made up my mind yet. As of now I have a 1995 Z28 Lt1. It has 3.73 motive gears in the stock rear end. Borla Exhaust, Beafed up transmission with everything needed but a different stall converter, Automatic. with 18 inch wheels. I am wanting to hit around 450-500 hp. It will more than likely be strictly street except for maybe one time to see what it can do. I am really leaning towards the 396 conversion with full forged. Been looking around a lot and leaning towards the cnc-motorsports short block. Seems they have the best internals for the price with really good feedback. Im leaning towards the afr 195cc eliminator heads and getting golen to port me a matching intake. I really have no idea on a cam. I just know it has to be streetable without problems and Hopefully the gas mileage is above 15mpg. The reason I mentioned the wheel size is that im not sure if i need to beaf up the suspension to not bottom out the wheels. Is the expensive golen manifold needed or can i go with any porged 58 mm intake? Does this sound solid or any other ideas? Been around cars my entire life, but always carbureted and this is the first time by myself. My father use to help me a lot but he told me when ti comes to fuel injection im on my own. Appreciate any advice or help. Thank you. My car is very sweet and ive been told it is the nicest looking one most people have seen. But its kind of embarrassing that every time a strong mustang comes up to me and revs it up all i can do is smile, cuz i know i aint got nothing.

RamAir95TA

iTrader: (2)

Are you looking for 450-500whp or 450-500fwhp? There is a very different approach between the two.

In my experience, avoid anything Golen.

Shakerz1313

iTrader: (-1)

450 at wheels would be very nice if achievable.

RamAir95TA

iTrader: (2)

What kind of budget do you have to work with?

Shakerz1313

iTrader: (-1)

im thinking i should prob keep it close to 7k. Sold my 3 cars and bike to go back to college and spent what i had left on this for my one and only real toy i have left so want to enjoy it.

Lawhead

iTrader: (14)

Get 3k more and you can Have RamAir's car

86formula

iTrader: (3)

just duplicate Joes set up or buy his car. you dont need AFRs for 450 to the wheels

Shakerz1313

iTrader: (-1)

Ive already got too much invested in this car to just buy another. but his car looks really sweet. So just go with the AI's, cam and call it good?

RamAir95TA

iTrader: (2)

It's definitely a bit more involved than that. TUNING will be a big part of it, not to mention having ALL of the bolt-ons using quality parts. It may be a bit more expensive than you think, but it's worth it in the end once you reach your goal.

Shakerz1313

iTrader: (-1)

What I meant was, that so all I'll need to reach my goals is a solid 396 short block, a good intake, cam and heads? How much will I need to upgrade the suspension for street use? Do I need coil overs in the back or what? Im not sure I have much room to lower it with the 18's I have on my car.

Larry @ AMS

iTrader: (1)

The goals you have are surely possible, but it will take some time, effort and $ to make a combo all work well together. There are many combo's you'll see with more high end stuff that don't make the power more simple stuff does. This all comes down to the knowledge one has or shop they dealt with for their combo.

I have a stock head/intake combo that some questioned when we were putting it together that runs very well. I will admit a bit better then I had expected and it will actually be for sale soon. This would probably go well in your car due to you mentioning how nice it is since it's all blinged out

396 from fuel rails to pan / water pump to converter

450+ rwhp unlocked

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headers, y-pipe, K-member, N20 setup all available too

Shakerz1313

iTrader: (-1)

I cant build or buy anything till end of august. Just trying to get my ducks in a row. Thanks for the offer though.

Larry @ AMS

iTrader: (1)

who knows.. maybe that's about when I will feel like removing everything. LOL

Shakerz1313

iTrader: (-1)

Thanks for advice everyone

SS RRR

iTrader: (2)

If you are planning on rebuilding your block then don't settle on having to get the block filled. It's not necessary as long as you have a machine shop which knows how to clearance the pan rails for the stroke. If you are going to use h-beam rods then go with Compstar instead of Eagle. Compstar does not require as much clearance of the pan rail to work.

BizZzatch350

iTrader: (33)

Nice, I know I really would be interested in the nitrous set up from it. August looks like it's going to be a good month

stumprrp

iTrader: (2)

Personally i would talk to a local engine guru on what to do instead of this forum. For example my car has a Golen 396 which is supposed to be a piece of **** but 10,000 miles later it still burns 1/4 of a quart every 3,000 miles and gets spun to 7000 weekly. 415 RWHP with an unlocked converter and single 3 inch exhaust, i think thats pretty good for a "terrible" company. Then again there are others with horror stories.

Ill list the specs if you wanted to know anyways.

396 forged bottom, 12:1 compression, mild ported trickflows, ported intake, 236/244 .575 lift cam, 1 3/4 headers. All done after 6250 and peak torque in the 4000's. Great street motor.

RamAir95TA

iTrader: (2)

No offense, but this post doesn't make any sense to me. You say you spin it to 7000 RPM weekly, but it makes nothing after 6250rpm. And when is burning ANY amount of oil on a new motor acceptable?

If I had a 396 with ported Trickflows and that size cam and only put down 415whp, well I don't know what to say. What does it run at the track?

JMHO, of course.

Shakerz1313

iTrader: (-1)

Thanks for all the info guys. Helps a lot

coolmanvette75

iTrader: (2)

Guys are putting down more than 415 to the wheels on the stock bottom end...