Has any used the Be Cool Radiator on an LT1?
06-06-2011, 10:11 PM
#21
The water runs hotish so that the oil can consistently get up to the temperature needed to boil off water vapor that has settled in it. This extends oil life and engine longevity. Believe it or not, the factory engineers did have a clue when they designed these cars.
The only actual reason to want a lower water temp is because you have increased cylinder pressure and need the heads cooler to prevent pre-ignition. If your engine is running cooler because you have been messing with it and you really don't need it, you are simply reducing engine life as well as fuel economy because of your ignorance.
The only actual reason to want a lower water temp is because you have increased cylinder pressure and need the heads cooler to prevent pre-ignition. If your engine is running cooler because you have been messing with it and you really don't need it, you are simply reducing engine life as well as fuel economy because of your ignorance.
06-14-2011, 06:30 AM
#22
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The water runs hotish so that the oil can consistently get up to the temperature needed to boil off water vapor that has settled in it. This extends oil life and engine longevity. Believe it or not, the factory engineers did have a clue when they designed these cars.
The only actual reason to want a lower water temp is because you have increased cylinder pressure and need the heads cooler to prevent pre-ignition. If your engine is running cooler because you have been messing with it and you really don't need it, you are simply reducing engine life as well as fuel economy because of your ignorance.
The only actual reason to want a lower water temp is because you have increased cylinder pressure and need the heads cooler to prevent pre-ignition. If your engine is running cooler because you have been messing with it and you really don't need it, you are simply reducing engine life as well as fuel economy because of your ignorance.
Everyone thanks for the replys.. I agree the the Be cool radiator set up is expensive, thats why I wanted the input.. My orginal radiator is 14 years old now, I just figured that it was time for an upgrade... thanks
06-14-2011, 06:56 AM
#23
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I have a 180* thermo and have my fans set to run on high once they turn on. keeps my car a tad below half way in 107* Texas heat... sounds to me like you might have a coolant system grimlin
Obviously you have a masters degree in engineering and know how how to build a much better car, right? remember, your speaking of 9-18 year old technology... everything has flaws when its MSRP was around $23,000 in its day.
you are aware that there is such thing as too cold, right? besides that, what benefits are you looking at?
you are aware that there is such thing as too cold, right? besides that, what benefits are you looking at?
Last edited by -M-; 06-14-2011 at 07:07 AM.
06-14-2011, 08:24 AM
#24
The water runs hotish so that the oil can consistently get up to the temperature needed to boil off water vapor that has settled in it. This extends oil life and engine longevity. Believe it or not, the factory engineers did have a clue when they designed these cars.
The only actual reason to want a lower water temp is because you have increased cylinder pressure and need the heads cooler to prevent pre-ignition. If your engine is running cooler because you have been messing with it and you really don't need it, you are simply reducing engine life as well as fuel economy because of your ignorance.
The only actual reason to want a lower water temp is because you have increased cylinder pressure and need the heads cooler to prevent pre-ignition. If your engine is running cooler because you have been messing with it and you really don't need it, you are simply reducing engine life as well as fuel economy because of your ignorance.
1. Older technology (the newest LT1 is 14 years old).
2. Designed to be driven year round anywhere from Alaska to southern Chile and anywhere in between.
3. Designed them with emissions requirements
4. Designed them to make good power but also "good" fuel economy and noise etc.
5. Designed them to meet a certain market price
We're driving these cars mostly in above freezing temperatures and sometimes care little about fuel economy or emissions. Also cars with aftermarket engines or power adders are going too generate a lot more heat anyway. The factory engineers did not entirely design these cars for people on these boards. A lot of people initially bought these cars with no intention of modding them.
06-14-2011, 08:29 AM
#25
The factory engineers also designed these cars with:
1. Older technology (the newest LT1 is 14 years old).
2. Designed to be driven year round anywhere from Alaska to southern Chile and anywhere in between.
3. Designed them with emissions requirements
4. Designed them to make good power but also "good" fuel economy and noise etc.
5. Designed them to meet a certain market price
We're driving these cars mostly in above freezing temperatures and sometimes care little about fuel economy or emissions. Also cars with aftermarket engines or power adders are going too generate a lot more heat anyway. The factory engineers did not entirely design these cars for people on these boards. A lot of people initially bought these cars with no intention of modding them.
1. Older technology (the newest LT1 is 14 years old).
2. Designed to be driven year round anywhere from Alaska to southern Chile and anywhere in between.
3. Designed them with emissions requirements
4. Designed them to make good power but also "good" fuel economy and noise etc.
5. Designed them to meet a certain market price
We're driving these cars mostly in above freezing temperatures and sometimes care little about fuel economy or emissions. Also cars with aftermarket engines or power adders are going too generate a lot more heat anyway. The factory engineers did not entirely design these cars for people on these boards. A lot of people initially bought these cars with no intention of modding them.
06-14-2011, 08:31 AM
#26
Hey guys, I have a 97 Lt1 the temp gets up to 220, in this heat here in Florida's Summer... . I was wondering if anyone here has switched to the Be Cool Radiator and does it really drop your temperature 15 to 20 degrees.... I have a 160 thermostat already.... Thanks Jason
Last edited by quik95lt1; 06-14-2011 at 08:37 AM.
06-14-2011, 09:40 AM
#27
160 T-stat and a tune with earlier fan settings and I never had an issue again, both with the stock wp and now electric. LT1s run hot stock for emissions reasons, most new cars do. I think the second fan setting isn't till like 220, so your is actually normal. The 160 never helped mine till I got it tuned and they changed the fan setting. Get a bolt on tune from some one and it'll be alright, lot cheaper then a new radiator.
So...I run just as cool as you, for a TON less money. I can think of better ways to spend $400+.
06-14-2011, 09:52 AM
#28
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The water runs hotish so that the oil can consistently get up to the temperature needed to boil off water vapor that has settled in it. This extends oil life and engine longevity. Believe it or not, the factory engineers did have a clue when they designed these cars.
The only actual reason to want a lower water temp is because you have increased cylinder pressure and need the heads cooler to prevent pre-ignition. If your engine is running cooler because you have been messing with it and you really don't need it, you are simply reducing engine life as well as fuel economy because of your ignorance.
The only actual reason to want a lower water temp is because you have increased cylinder pressure and need the heads cooler to prevent pre-ignition. If your engine is running cooler because you have been messing with it and you really don't need it, you are simply reducing engine life as well as fuel economy because of your ignorance.
Last edited by SS RRR; 06-14-2011 at 10:14 AM.
stock wp here
06-14-2011, 11:05 AM
#30
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that does seem a bit warm......id turnt the fans on earlier and also run a 180 T Stat.............I run a 160 Stat in mine and i drive it around in 90* weather here in new england in the summer and it will never creep over 200 even with the stock radiator and fans on a high horsepower 14.22:1 CR motor in stop and go traffic.....make sure ur radiator is clean and the fins aren't bent and make sure the fans are working properly.........that radiator should cool with no problem
06-14-2011, 06:05 PM
#35
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I guess OP cant list the benefits of running a car below its recommended operating temperature? I thought maybe we all would be entertained with a few giggles...
06-16-2011, 01:00 AM
#37
This gain is also dyno verified, the lower temp is better by about 15 rwhp.
06-16-2011, 01:58 AM
#38
I can verify as well that when I ran back to back passes at Bandimere with
temps at 160 and 195 there was a solid 3 tenths difference . I like my Camaro
to run right around 170 . But realistically it stays right around 180 in traffic and
180-195 on the hwy . Outside temps also play a huge role in engine temps . If
its 70 degrees or cooler out my temps wont climb above 170 . I have the stock
radiator , 160 Tstat , fans are tuned , and a manual fan switch . I also flush
the coolant once to twice a year just because I want a consistently fresh
solution and I have OCD
temps at 160 and 195 there was a solid 3 tenths difference . I like my Camaro
to run right around 170 . But realistically it stays right around 180 in traffic and
180-195 on the hwy . Outside temps also play a huge role in engine temps . If
its 70 degrees or cooler out my temps wont climb above 170 . I have the stock
radiator , 160 Tstat , fans are tuned , and a manual fan switch . I also flush
the coolant once to twice a year just because I want a consistently fresh
solution and I have OCD
06-16-2011, 10:58 PM
#39
06-17-2011, 12:29 PM
#40
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Just hook the fans up to key on power and let them run all the time. Cheaper than a manual.fan switch kit. Cheaper than a new tune. Can be done in less than 10 min and make sure you put a fuse if you do so. That way prevent fire and when your working on another part of car that needs power you can pull fuse so fans don't run. I run about 170 max with a 160 thermo fact water pump and radiator. Put coolant in before its too late, not dex either green and some 40 below if you want.