. I appreciate all the advice. 
suspension and frame set up
suspension and frame set up If I increase my hp to roughly 500 at the wheels am I going to have a problem with my car since its t-tops or do I need to strengthen the frame? Also at what point do you have to put in a roll bar or roll cage if you are going to take it to the track? If my camaro is around 500 hp at the wheels and I add a super charger in the future, will regular forged components ( most short blocks i see come with eagle) hold or do i need to step it up to callie or something similar? Thanks for any input.
You should have sub frame connectors and aftermarket torque arm and rear control arms. Roll cage and helmet rules vary for what ET your car can do. Most tracks follow NHRA rules:
http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/n...ets/index.html
http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/n...ets/index.html
You should have sub frame connectors and aftermarket torque arm and rear control arms. Roll cage and helmet rules vary for what ET your car can do. Most tracks follow NHRA rules:
http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/n...ets/index.html
http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/n...ets/index.html
Sub-frame connectors made a HUGE difference in my T-top car....no rattles now. You can feel the added chassis stiffness going over bumps, railroad tracks ect and cornering (also hooks up better). Probably the one of the most effective mods I have done to my car; I wish I had done it sooner.
Which company makes a solid sub frame?
Would it be better to just get some rear coil overs instead of just a rear control bar?
Would it be better to just get some rear coil overs instead of just a rear control bar?
Last edited by Shakerz1313; Jun 7, 2011 at 02:12 PM.
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How exactly do you plan on getting to 500rwp?
The problem with that plan is that an LT1 motor that makes 500hp with no forced induction (supercharger or turbo) is going to be running a high compression. A supercharger makes additional power with boost, high compression and boost don't mix well. If you want to build a motor that handles boost well and makes a lot of power, it will need to be a low compression build and wont be very powerful without the supercharger/boost.
Like the others said, subframe connectors are a great investment for any fbody on any power level.
The problem with that plan is that an LT1 motor that makes 500hp with no forced induction (supercharger or turbo) is going to be running a high compression. A supercharger makes additional power with boost, high compression and boost don't mix well. If you want to build a motor that handles boost well and makes a lot of power, it will need to be a low compression build and wont be very powerful without the supercharger/boost.
Like the others said, subframe connectors are a great investment for any fbody on any power level.
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i run subframes on a hardtop car and it makes a difference........every little bit helps..........as for cages
you going to need a 6 point at 11.49
an 8 point at 10.99
10 point at 9.99 or 135+mph
as for suspension the stock suspension is actually quite capable with a few little changes to add adjustibility.......get the torque arm relocation bracket for the trans and that will give you adjustibility on the torq arm height........get a set of lca relocation brackets and with that and the torq arm bracket you will be able to dial in your instant center........then grab a set of subframes to tie the car together and a set of drag bags for the rear and you will hook on a budget...........
you going to need a 6 point at 11.49
an 8 point at 10.99
10 point at 9.99 or 135+mph
as for suspension the stock suspension is actually quite capable with a few little changes to add adjustibility.......get the torque arm relocation bracket for the trans and that will give you adjustibility on the torq arm height........get a set of lca relocation brackets and with that and the torq arm bracket you will be able to dial in your instant center........then grab a set of subframes to tie the car together and a set of drag bags for the rear and you will hook on a budget...........
I wouldn't suggest getting a convertible with that much power, my motor is way too much for what I use my car for. I also don't have a roll bar which is a big safety issue. I rarely take my car up to any serious speed for that reason.
How do you plan on getting 500 rwhp??? If you add boost or spray then its fairly easy, but for a NA motor thats a pretty good feat IMHO
I have weld in UMI 3 point SFCs kind of bolted up, but not welded in yet. They tuck up really well, fit great, and look pretty beefy.
Tunnel mount TAs are a good investment too if you have an auto, but if you have a stick I'd suggest the long TA and a relocation bracket. With a stick the TA will clunk and rattle really bad, but with the auto its alot less noticeable.
I would also suggest LCAs and relocation brackets. I didn't get the relocation brackets and had a little bit of wheel hop if the pavement was just right. I had poly ended non-adjustable LCAs. I think it made a big difference in how my car hooked, and the LCAs were a great addition to my adjustable UMI full length TA.
But last but not least tires and shocks play a big part too. But I have no pointers here, I was on stock shocks and cheap street tires the last few years. In a couple weeks I'll let you know how my new setup feels, but it was a HUGE change from where it was before.
I have weld in UMI 3 point SFCs kind of bolted up, but not welded in yet. They tuck up really well, fit great, and look pretty beefy.
Tunnel mount TAs are a good investment too if you have an auto, but if you have a stick I'd suggest the long TA and a relocation bracket. With a stick the TA will clunk and rattle really bad, but with the auto its alot less noticeable.
I would also suggest LCAs and relocation brackets. I didn't get the relocation brackets and had a little bit of wheel hop if the pavement was just right. I had poly ended non-adjustable LCAs. I think it made a big difference in how my car hooked, and the LCAs were a great addition to my adjustable UMI full length TA.
But last but not least tires and shocks play a big part too. But I have no pointers here, I was on stock shocks and cheap street tires the last few years. In a couple weeks I'll let you know how my new setup feels, but it was a HUGE change from where it was before.
i run subframes on a hardtop car and it makes a difference........every little bit helps..........as for cages
you going to need a 6 point at 11.49
an 8 point at 10.99
10 point at 9.99 or 135+mph
as for suspension the stock suspension is actually quite capable with a few little changes to add adjustibility.......get the torque arm relocation bracket for the trans and that will give you adjustibility on the torq arm height........get a set of lca relocation brackets and with that and the torq arm bracket you will be able to dial in your instant center........then grab a set of subframes to tie the car together and a set of drag bags for the rear and you will hook on a budget...........
you going to need a 6 point at 11.49
an 8 point at 10.99
10 point at 9.99 or 135+mph
as for suspension the stock suspension is actually quite capable with a few little changes to add adjustibility.......get the torque arm relocation bracket for the trans and that will give you adjustibility on the torq arm height........get a set of lca relocation brackets and with that and the torq arm bracket you will be able to dial in your instant center........then grab a set of subframes to tie the car together and a set of drag bags for the rear and you will hook on a budget...........
also ther are no solid SFC's
and again whats your goal for the car? mainly straight lines or do you want to carve corners too? that will determine what size & type of sway bars you want
I have a 10inch but it has 373 motive gears. I hope that will be enough or the guy at the speed shop totally wasted my cash. I want to be able to drive it everywhere. Corners and straight aways. Was looking at getting some rear coils, torque bar and frame connectors for sure.
Is there anything else i can do to that rear end to help it hold up or do i really have to start from scratch on it?
Is there anything else i can do to that rear end to help it hold up or do i really have to start from scratch on it?
well if you have planes of making it work better for you later there is a good point for having it. You already bought it and worked the bugs out lol. Different strokes for different folks. My budgets for my cars are 2 years long. I have to plan it out and if I run across something for a good to great price well sometimes you have to jump but then wait out the budget you have.
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Joined: Aug 2010
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From: New Hampshire
It sounds like you have a long way to go on your knowledge base, OP.
Regardless of what gears are in your 10 bolt, you're going to shred it. Even at 300 RWHP with slicks, you'll shred it.
If you expect to be around 500 RWHP and expect it to stick to the ground, regardless of whether it's going to be set up as a street car or drag car, these are the BARE MINIMUM, IMO:
12 bolt rear, 9" rear, or S60 rear. That 10 bolt will be blown to pieces.
SFC's (I have tubular bolt-ins, they're working great)
LCA's (I have non-adjustable tubulars)
Panhard bar (You'll need an adjustable if you lower your car)
Shock setup (I have stock springs with KYB AGX adjustable shocks)
Adjustable torque arm, tunnel mounted (I have UMI adjustable, tunnel mount is more rigid, and adjustability is needed for dialing it in).
Drag radials or Slicks.
I'm sitting right at 650 RWHP, and I've got a 12 bolt with M/T ET Street drag radials. Mine is set up for the street...and hooks like a badass.
Regardless of what gears are in your 10 bolt, you're going to shred it. Even at 300 RWHP with slicks, you'll shred it.
If you expect to be around 500 RWHP and expect it to stick to the ground, regardless of whether it's going to be set up as a street car or drag car, these are the BARE MINIMUM, IMO:
12 bolt rear, 9" rear, or S60 rear. That 10 bolt will be blown to pieces.
SFC's (I have tubular bolt-ins, they're working great)
LCA's (I have non-adjustable tubulars)
Panhard bar (You'll need an adjustable if you lower your car)
Shock setup (I have stock springs with KYB AGX adjustable shocks)
Adjustable torque arm, tunnel mounted (I have UMI adjustable, tunnel mount is more rigid, and adjustability is needed for dialing it in).
Drag radials or Slicks.
I'm sitting right at 650 RWHP, and I've got a 12 bolt with M/T ET Street drag radials. Mine is set up for the street...and hooks like a badass.
I know I do , thats why I joined this website. I know enough to repair my car when it breaks. I am studying Radiology not mechanics so this is a little out of my expertise. My real love is cars and with school I can't afford a new hot rod so trying to make my 95 something I can be proud of. I appreciate all the help.
Which companies make a solid Sub frame bolt on kit torque arm,LCA, panhard ect. I see a lot out there, but have never dealt with any of them.
Which companies make a solid Sub frame bolt on kit torque arm,LCA, panhard ect. I see a lot out there, but have never dealt with any of them.
