New Mod?? Need help on converter!!
New Mod?? Need help on converter!! Okay so my car is a 96 Z28 and is my daily driver.
The car has exhaust, cai, and 3.73 gears. Brought it to the track and coudnt really hook. Ran 13.9 consistent with a best of 13.88.
So I installed 245/50/R16 nitto DRs and it dropped my times to 13.7.
The next upgrade I'm Looking to do is a torque converter but have some questions.
How much will this help my times?
Will it make it hard to daily drive?
Which one should I get for a daily driven bolt on car, and may also go mild cam?
How will it effect fuel economy?
Also how hard is this to install with no lift? Most of done on my car is bolt ons, water pump, and opti.
Should I just pay a shop to do it?
The car has exhaust, cai, and 3.73 gears. Brought it to the track and coudnt really hook. Ran 13.9 consistent with a best of 13.88.
So I installed 245/50/R16 nitto DRs and it dropped my times to 13.7.
The next upgrade I'm Looking to do is a torque converter but have some questions.
How much will this help my times?
Will it make it hard to daily drive?
Which one should I get for a daily driven bolt on car, and may also go mild cam?
How will it effect fuel economy?
Also how hard is this to install with no lift? Most of done on my car is bolt ons, water pump, and opti.
Should I just pay a shop to do it?
I like Edge Racing converters, when my car was a year round driver in Wisconsin I had a 2800 stall, then as I modified it more and I did not need to drive it in the snow I went to a 3400 and currently a 3800. I have driven it with the 3800 in slushy conditions and will generally choose another vehicle under those conditions. Does not look like a concern for you. Even the most conservative of gearheads will usually be fine with 28-3400stall.
If not Edge I would buy Yank. Yank is more money because they use a billet cover which cost coin to machine.
It would not be unusual to see .4 or better drop in 1/4 mile times, a good converter makes a HUGE difference.
City fuel economy might hurt a little but highway is unaffected because they are still lockup.
If not Edge I would buy Yank. Yank is more money because they use a billet cover which cost coin to machine.
It would not be unusual to see .4 or better drop in 1/4 mile times, a good converter makes a HUGE difference.
City fuel economy might hurt a little but highway is unaffected because they are still lockup.
Ive ran a yank ss3600 and a cheap no name 2800. the ss3600 drove just as tight as the cheaper one but flashed a lot higher and was alot more fun. Only problem though was I couldnt hook with it which shouldnt be an issue for you with drag radials. Cant go wrong with an ss3600, it really does drive as tight as everyone says they do. My overall MPG dropped from 19.5 to 17 with it though.
I like my edge 3200, Andre was great to deal with; he supposedly built my converter better than the street edge but not quite the pro edge to fit my needs. I would give them a call or there is a used one here http://www.camaroz28.com/forums/showthread.php?t=816574 buy this and call Andre I am sure he can do a restall on it.
I dropped my trans 6 times in the garage on floor jacks, it can be done. its not too bad. Its a little messy at times but not too difficult. Just be safe. i used another jack and a piece of sqaure plywood to support the trans when lowering it.
the stock converter is about 45 pounds and the trans is about 130 pounds without it. be careful, stuff can really hurt ya if it gets out of control,.
the stock converter is about 45 pounds and the trans is about 130 pounds without it. be careful, stuff can really hurt ya if it gets out of control,.
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It can easily be done with jack stands. I did a tranny swap alone in two hours in this way.
The converter should help you not only drop about a half second, but also make even your worst launch in the 2.0-2.1 range.
Do yourself a favor and get a quality 4000 stall the first time. If you have thoughts of a cam don't bother with less.
Dding a stalled auto is perfectly fine. Don't expect great mileage, but if you have problems with that your choice in car is the real problem.
The converter should help you not only drop about a half second, but also make even your worst launch in the 2.0-2.1 range.
Do yourself a favor and get a quality 4000 stall the first time. If you have thoughts of a cam don't bother with less.
Dding a stalled auto is perfectly fine. Don't expect great mileage, but if you have problems with that your choice in car is the real problem.
TECH Fanatic
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 1,776
Likes: 1
From: South Dakota
How much will this help my times?
good half second
Will it make it hard to daily drive?
no
Which one should I get for a daily driven bolt on car, and may also go mild cam?
3600 or 4000
How will it effect fuel economy?
Depends if you can keep your foot out of the gas. (it will drop alittle with a feather foot
Edge racing here too, Andre is great to work with. I ran a 3000 for two years sent it back to him to reconfigure to 3600. He gave me a free t-shirt too, how can you beat that. 
Registered User
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
Sorry to jump in. Have read a lot here but, never posted.
As for EDGE converters, run one behind a 406 (with th350) in a 77 Nova. 11:1, 300dur/520 lift ancient general kinetics solid cam, iron GM 487x casting heads. 4.88:1 rear, 31"x10.5 MT slicks.
No boost, no bottle. Just a simple ultra low buck, small block bracket car.
Before edge converter:
(vega converter approx 3500 stall) 11.75@120 mph RPM at traps 6800.
I was informed by Andre, at edge that a 'street edge' would work for my application. He told me I'd pick up .2, drop 4000 rpm @ the traps, and mph would drop due to less slippage.
First pass with EDGE (stall set by edge @ approx 4400) cut bad light, 11.62@113
Car now consistently runs in the 11.50's@114mph Trap RPM is dead on my shift light @ 6400rpm
I think it was around $500 and, honestly worth every penny.
As for EDGE converters, run one behind a 406 (with th350) in a 77 Nova. 11:1, 300dur/520 lift ancient general kinetics solid cam, iron GM 487x casting heads. 4.88:1 rear, 31"x10.5 MT slicks.
No boost, no bottle. Just a simple ultra low buck, small block bracket car.
Before edge converter:
(vega converter approx 3500 stall) 11.75@120 mph RPM at traps 6800.
I was informed by Andre, at edge that a 'street edge' would work for my application. He told me I'd pick up .2, drop 4000 rpm @ the traps, and mph would drop due to less slippage.
First pass with EDGE (stall set by edge @ approx 4400) cut bad light, 11.62@113
Car now consistently runs in the 11.50's@114mph Trap RPM is dead on my shift light @ 6400rpm
I think it was around $500 and, honestly worth every penny.
10 Second Club
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 2,630
Likes: 28
The proper one will drop it an honest .50, no b.s.
No, not at all. A tight converter will not flash-up at all if you aren't on the gas hard. Basically if you are just cruising around you will barely notice that it has a performance converter in it.
SS4000. People that say it is too big for a stock motor fail to realize that a stock LT1 makes peak power way over 5k. you will read story after story about guys running 3000-3200rpm converters that wish they had gone bigger.
If you are just driving normally, it will be minimally effected.
**** the shop. Get 4 jackstands, get it high in the air. 6 bolts on the tranny, 4 bolts on the rear of the driveshaft. 3 bolts on the converter. Throw out the dust shield. Unhook the tranny lines. Unplug the harness. Unbolt the crossmember, torque arm. Place a jack under it and lower it down and pull it back. You only need to slide it out of the way about 7 or 8 inches backwards.
No, not at all. A tight converter will not flash-up at all if you aren't on the gas hard. Basically if you are just cruising around you will barely notice that it has a performance converter in it.
If you are just driving normally, it will be minimally effected.
**** the shop. Get 4 jackstands, get it high in the air. 6 bolts on the tranny, 4 bolts on the rear of the driveshaft. 3 bolts on the converter. Throw out the dust shield. Unhook the tranny lines. Unplug the harness. Unbolt the crossmember, torque arm. Place a jack under it and lower it down and pull it back. You only need to slide it out of the way about 7 or 8 inches backwards.
