Water pump 1, Opti 0
Al 95 Z28
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The weep hole is merely there as an indication that the water pump is going bad. With an electric pump, you would need another way of monitoring that. But, of course, if you block the weep hole then it defeats the purpose of that anyway.
The weep hole is merely there as an indication that the water pump is going bad. With an electric pump, you would need another way of monitoring that. But, of course, if you block the weep hole then it defeats the purpose of that anyway.
Now, about the "uses less power" statement. What tells the electric pump how much water to pump? Lets say your racing a guy up a long hill, or sitting in traffic. How does the electric water pump know? Does it pump more water at high RPM? Think about it....
Al 95 Z28
Now, about the "uses less power" statement. What tells the electric pump how much water to pump? Lets say your racing a guy up a long hill, or sitting in traffic. How does the electric water pump know? Does it pump more water at high RPM? Think about it....
Al 95 Z28
Yes, of course, mounting an electric water pump to the stock housing requires a seal. (On the front, not on the back where the stock weep hole is...) I sealed mine with blue RTV. Of course it *could* leak, but unlike a stock setup, it is not designed to do so. Mine has never leaked and has been on the car since 2005.
Nothing *tells* the EWP what to pump aside from voltage. It pumps a constant amount at idle, WOT, and everywhere in between. It pumps more than a stock unit at idle, and less at WOT. If you spend all day at WOT, sure, don't get an EWP. (Are you driving a road race car? Actually, I have read that even some of those guys are running dual EWPs.)
Most people's anecdotal evidence will show that for a normal street/strip daily driver car, an EWP cools better in stop-and-go traffic than a stocker precisely because it is flowing more at lower RPMs. It certainly flows plenty enough for what most people consider 'spirited' driving, with WOT passes from stoplights and such. Not to mention the other ancillary benefits: Run the EWP whenever the key is on, so you can cool the motor more effectively in the staging lanes. Bleed the cooling system with the motor not running. Changing an EWP out does not require removing the entire housing. etc.
So don't do an EWP if you don't want to... I really don't care. Just stating my opinion.
FWIW I have had a EWP on for 12 years and 80k miles...WAY longer than any OEM pump which all leaked through the weep hole on on the Opti...thus killing the Optis. When my 96 went out of warrenty I replaced the then 500 mi dealer installed AC Delco WP...which was leaking.
In 12 years I have had no "water got on my opti" problem as a result of a OEM pump leaking.
Yes a fitting and tube can redirect the water if a OEM pump leaks....right on the belt...which it already does also if it leaks
If The OEM pump had a $.05 part inside as a bushing seal vs a $.02 part it might hold water. Something anyone will discover once they gut one to go electric.
Yes, of course, mounting an electric water pump to the stock housing requires a seal. (On the front, not on the back where the stock weep hole is...) I sealed mine with blue RTV. Of course it *could* leak, but unlike a stock setup, it is not designed to do so. Mine has never leaked and has been on the car since 2005.
Nothing *tells* the EWP what to pump aside from voltage. It pumps a constant amount at idle, WOT, and everywhere in between. It pumps more than a stock unit at idle, and less at WOT. If you spend all day at WOT, sure, don't get an EWP. (Are you driving a road race car? Actually, I have read that even some of those guys are running dual EWPs.)
Most people's anecdotal evidence will show that for a normal street/strip daily driver car, an EWP cools better in stop-and-go traffic than a stocker precisely because it is flowing more at lower RPMs. It certainly flows plenty enough for what most people consider 'spirited' driving, with WOT passes from stoplights and such. Not to mention the other ancillary benefits: Run the EWP whenever the key is on, so you can cool the motor more effectively in the staging lanes. Bleed the cooling system with the motor not running. Changing an EWP out does not require removing the entire housing. etc.
So don't do an EWP if you don't want to... I really don't care. Just stating my opinion.
Al
Al
The power difference comes from the fact that the EWP does *not* require as much energy to turn at WOT because:
1) It flows less water at WOT, as mentioned above.
2) The stock impeller design presumably cavitates and produces much more resistance at higher RPM
3) It is removing rotational mass, which by definition costs power, if only slightly. (EDIT: And I do emphasize slightly here, as in probably too small to measure. It is mostly 1&2)
We are only talking in the realm of like 5 rwhp here, but by the way this is dyno proven numerous times, not my personal opinion.
Last edited by TheHeadFL; Jun 30, 2011 at 04:27 PM.







