Nice quality Valve Train
#21
So spend a ****-ton of money on a shaft-mount rocker setup, high-dollar valve springs and hardware and thick-walled HD pushrods instead of buying another $300 cam?
#22
Pretty much this, not to mention trying to control lobes that were probably designed for a 1.5-1.6 ratio rocker.
#23
95 TA - The only problem with designing cams for only 1.5 is you get some aggressive lobes which push the lifters way ip in their bore and can cause oiling issues. Much less time spent with the oiling passage ways lined up.
.02
.02
#24
There is a lot more to rocker ratio then lift at the valve. The only reason higher lift cams and more aggressive rockers are not more widely available is because manufacturers know that people will run them with crappy springs and tiny stock pushrods...then blame them when it doesn't last or perform as expected.
#25
I think you should just concentrate on the combination with a 1.6 ratio and stop trying to over complicate the **** out of everything and having blowhards tell you what they think will work. Once you get the setup dialed in and run it at its full potential then do experimenting with different ratios or go for a different cam. Doing this kind of crap while trying to get a setup dialed in can lead to problems, failure and disappointment. Keep it simple first, get a base line and then go for the dare to be different intricate ****.
Last edited by SS RRR; 07-06-2011 at 07:51 PM.
#26
I would think 1.7's intake and 1.6 exaust would work better, put you at .578/.576.
.612/.576 doesnt really go with cams that work lol. dont see to many LT1 cams with a spread like that. Hell 1.7 exhaust and 1.8 intake on a calculator sounds better then 1.8/1.6. Lookin at .612/.612.
Either way, your gonna run into some issues when you go for the valve springs. Not sure what lifters your running, but your gonna need better then LS7's if you go with 8501's. the 8401's would probably work, thats what im running with .606/.603 lift, I just know with my install height i couldnt use 8501's because of the seat pressure. Pushrods id do the trickflow chromemoly though.
Lot of nay sayers in this post, i say prove em all wrong and do it. But i would seriously consider doing 1.7 intake and 1.6 exhaust. spare yourself the pain of the 1.8's, remember if it doesnt work noone is gonna want 8 used 1.8 ratio rockers lol.
.612/.576 doesnt really go with cams that work lol. dont see to many LT1 cams with a spread like that. Hell 1.7 exhaust and 1.8 intake on a calculator sounds better then 1.8/1.6. Lookin at .612/.612.
Either way, your gonna run into some issues when you go for the valve springs. Not sure what lifters your running, but your gonna need better then LS7's if you go with 8501's. the 8401's would probably work, thats what im running with .606/.603 lift, I just know with my install height i couldnt use 8501's because of the seat pressure. Pushrods id do the trickflow chromemoly though.
Lot of nay sayers in this post, i say prove em all wrong and do it. But i would seriously consider doing 1.7 intake and 1.6 exhaust. spare yourself the pain of the 1.8's, remember if it doesnt work noone is gonna want 8 used 1.8 ratio rockers lol.
#28
Last I read you wanted to hit a certain time in the 1/4 mile. Instead of spending a bunch of money on something that may net you a few extra hp or a slightly differnt power curve on a cam that has been known to perform well.
Why dont you spend the money on getting the chassis and trans/rear dialed in. They are going to go farther towards your 1/4 mile goal than a few extra hp and a huge *** headache from trying to figure out what combination of 1.5/1.6/1.7/1.8 work best.
There are certain builds where this is a concern but you have alot of areas (Tran/Rear/Susp) to address before trying to tweak an already proven setup (CC306 and 1.6s).
Why dont you spend the money on getting the chassis and trans/rear dialed in. They are going to go farther towards your 1/4 mile goal than a few extra hp and a huge *** headache from trying to figure out what combination of 1.5/1.6/1.7/1.8 work best.
There are certain builds where this is a concern but you have alot of areas (Tran/Rear/Susp) to address before trying to tweak an already proven setup (CC306 and 1.6s).
#30
#32
Thats what I'll probably end up doing. Was an Idea nothing was set in stone no need to get everyone all pissy lol. I just wanted to get rid of the SA rockers with the 6600 shift points and such.
Will do
1.6 Pro mags
Patriot spring kit
and all the push rod and guide plate needs and get this thing back on the road
Will do
1.6 Pro mags
Patriot spring kit
and all the push rod and guide plate needs and get this thing back on the road
#34
I would think 1.7's intake and 1.6 exaust would work better, put you at .578/.576.
.612/.576 doesnt really go with cams that work lol. dont see to many LT1 cams with a spread like that. Hell 1.7 exhaust and 1.8 intake on a calculator sounds better then 1.8/1.6. Lookin at .612/.612.
Either way, your gonna run into some issues when you go for the valve springs. Not sure what lifters your running, but your gonna need better then LS7's if you go with 8501's. the 8401's would probably work, thats what im running with .606/.603 lift, I just know with my install height i couldnt use 8501's because of the seat pressure. Pushrods id do the trickflow chromemoly though.
Lot of nay sayers in this post, i say prove em all wrong and do it. But i would seriously consider doing 1.7 intake and 1.6 exhaust. spare yourself the pain of the 1.8's, remember if it doesnt work noone is gonna want 8 used 1.8 ratio rockers lol.
.612/.576 doesnt really go with cams that work lol. dont see to many LT1 cams with a spread like that. Hell 1.7 exhaust and 1.8 intake on a calculator sounds better then 1.8/1.6. Lookin at .612/.612.
Either way, your gonna run into some issues when you go for the valve springs. Not sure what lifters your running, but your gonna need better then LS7's if you go with 8501's. the 8401's would probably work, thats what im running with .606/.603 lift, I just know with my install height i couldnt use 8501's because of the seat pressure. Pushrods id do the trickflow chromemoly though.
Lot of nay sayers in this post, i say prove em all wrong and do it. But i would seriously consider doing 1.7 intake and 1.6 exhaust. spare yourself the pain of the 1.8's, remember if it doesnt work noone is gonna want 8 used 1.8 ratio rockers lol.
#35
Thats what I'll probably end up doing. Was an Idea nothing was set in stone no need to get everyone all pissy lol. I just wanted to get rid of the SA rockers with the 6600 shift points and such.
Will do
1.6 Pro mags
Patriot spring kit
and all the push rod and guide plate needs and get this thing back on the road
Will do
1.6 Pro mags
Patriot spring kit
and all the push rod and guide plate needs and get this thing back on the road
#36
Yep but you know Mystery on here he is in the mid 11's with heads ported by him.
But god forbid somebody other then AI or LE touch a pair of LT1 heads haha
The motor was in a car that ran good with LOADS of room for improvement not sure why your always here with the smartass comments on here. on LS1LT1 your perfectly cool and giving me advise about everything not sure if its something against me or the site.
But god forbid somebody other then AI or LE touch a pair of LT1 heads haha
The motor was in a car that ran good with LOADS of room for improvement not sure why your always here with the smartass comments on here. on LS1LT1 your perfectly cool and giving me advise about everything not sure if its something against me or the site.
#37
No point in opening valve .XXX when head only flows to .YYY
Being an unknown port job, why waste time and effort in something that could in fact slow you down? Get it running correctly, stop rushing all of your ****. Stick to a chosen path and continue down it till you are finished. There's always time to make it faster later
Being an unknown port job, why waste time and effort in something that could in fact slow you down? Get it running correctly, stop rushing all of your ****. Stick to a chosen path and continue down it till you are finished. There's always time to make it faster later
#38
No point in opening valve .XXX when head only flows to .YYY
Being an unknown port job, why waste time and effort in something that could in fact slow you down? Get it running correctly, stop rushing all of your ****. Stick to a chosen path and continue down it till you are finished. There's always time to make it faster later
Being an unknown port job, why waste time and effort in something that could in fact slow you down? Get it running correctly, stop rushing all of your ****. Stick to a chosen path and continue down it till you are finished. There's always time to make it faster later
#40
Yes there is.
Longer dwell at peak cfm.
Do your thing bro. The cam isn't my first choice, but if you are willing to spin it and give it the supporting mods you'll surprise a lot of the cookie cutter builds. Later down the road you can have a custom cam spec'd for your valvetrain and heads, then really start kicking ***.
Longer dwell at peak cfm.
Do your thing bro. The cam isn't my first choice, but if you are willing to spin it and give it the supporting mods you'll surprise a lot of the cookie cutter builds. Later down the road you can have a custom cam spec'd for your valvetrain and heads, then really start kicking ***.