How to disable the knock sensor?
How to disable the knock sensor? What happens if I just unplug it? Read somewhere about a resistor but I can't find it. My headers are hitting the motor mount on the driver's side and the frame on the passenger's side. PCM says knock, knock. Looks like the engine is too low. This car is a collage of parts and I can't fight this right now. Raised the rear of the TH400 1/2" and they still hit. Somehow I need to raise the engine about 1/4 to 3/8" on both sides. Thought the driver's side mount may be bad so I picked up the front of the car with the intake bolts and nothing moves.
Somehow from just sitting in my shop for two months while I went through the engine the radiator sprung two slow leaks. And now the steam pipe is leaking on the driver's side head at the banjo bolt. Frankenstein may be cursed!
BTW: The knock sensor and module are LT4 parts.
Al 95 Frankenstein Z28, Lunati 60122 cam, TH400, S-60, running but not ready for action yet.
Somehow from just sitting in my shop for two months while I went through the engine the radiator sprung two slow leaks. And now the steam pipe is leaking on the driver's side head at the banjo bolt. Frankenstein may be cursed!
BTW: The knock sensor and module are LT4 parts.
Al 95 Frankenstein Z28, Lunati 60122 cam, TH400, S-60, running but not ready for action yet.
I'd just have it programmed out with the tune.
Or a good suggestion I've hears is to plug the hole in the block and let the sensor hang or tie it up out of the way/keep it from vibrating hard against anything. Unplugging it will just set an SES.
Or a good suggestion I've hears is to plug the hole in the block and let the sensor hang or tie it up out of the way/keep it from vibrating hard against anything. Unplugging it will just set an SES.
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Joined: Dec 2008
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From: Little Rock, AR
The sensor may also need to be grounded (if not attached to the block) or it will probably throw a code like an open circuit. When there is a code for the sensor, timing is reduced and performance will be affected.
You can set maximum kr to zero in the tune. That's the easiest way. I've had to limit mine to 2' so it stopped pulling excessive timing on a run. It still pulls the max even with zero knock counts due to residual knock from the burnout. Stupid PCM.
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Cut wire going to knock sensor and then run a 4700 ohm resistor to ground and that will tell pcm no knock. I was getting 9* pulled on scanner while driving and wired it out and scanner then showed 0* being pulled. I always wanted to splice a toggle switch in and allow me to run the sensor so I could run cheap gas or get a bad tank then flip it on the 93-94 octane.
Dont quote me on the resistance as this is going off of memory from 7-8 years ago.
Dont quote me on the resistance as this is going off of memory from 7-8 years ago.
LOL! It's tiring repeating myself to simpletons. Go back and read some our old conversations. You may retain something on a second read. If not ask your dad to explain it.
Let me repeat myself, my tune is only half done, period. You imbecile. Learn to read. I started tuning in spring, i had to stop due to excessive arizona heat and a severe lack of traction. I will pick back up where I left off in October. So, please Stfu, you illiterate ****.
I think mine is a combination of false and real, but again, my tune has only been worked on the top end as I have no traction in low rpms. October.
Let me repeat myself, my tune is only half done, period. You imbecile. Learn to read. I started tuning in spring, i had to stop due to excessive arizona heat and a severe lack of traction. I will pick back up where I left off in October. So, please Stfu, you illiterate ****.
Your street prepped cam only mill makes soooo much power it just can not be tamed enough to even tune! A real tuner would laugh at you.
I don't even live in CO btw, dumbass.
Last edited by gregrob; Jul 13, 2011 at 04:35 PM.
And I don't care where you live, you aren't important.
SHUT UP already.