pushrod/rocker problem
pushrod/rocker problem I've run into an issue while trying to select the proper pushrod lenght for my 95 LT1. First off the first problem I ran into was I told I need to upgrade my rocker studs due to the extra lenght on hte stud for the roller rockers, so I did this and ran into my first problem the bottom portion of my aftermarket studs were to long and bottomed out in my aluminum head before properly seating so the store gave me some washers that corrected this problem so onto my current problem of trying to determine proper pushrod lenght the stock rod appears a little to long as the tip of the rocker is not hitting dead center of the valve tip but when I try to use my pushrod length checker set on a shorter rod the bottom of the roller rocker housing comes in contact with the base of the rocker stud, if seems if I didnt have the washers under the studs I'd have a few more thousandths of clearance....but for now I'm stuck at a stand still not sure which direction to go it seems the fix would be ot find some rocker studs that are meant for roller rockers but not guidplates...
all i can say is that ive never seen a setup where people have washers between the rocker arm stud and the cylinder head. I think you need to correct that problem. seems ghetto and wrong, but maybe thats how they do it.
Are you running some crazy setup? more info on your parts would be nice.
Find it odd that you need longer rocker arm studs anyways. Most after market studs work just fine with most aftermarket rockers.
Are you running some crazy setup? more info on your parts would be nice.
Find it odd that you need longer rocker arm studs anyways. Most after market studs work just fine with most aftermarket rockers.
^ what they just said...........in no case.......EVER......should there be washers used underneath a rocker stud........either get different studs or trim the ones you have down.......
all i can say is that ive never seen a setup where people have washers between the rocker arm stud and the cylinder head. I think you need to correct that problem. seems ghetto and wrong, but maybe thats how they do it.
Are you running some crazy setup? more info on your parts would be nice.
Find it odd that you need longer rocker arm studs anyways. Most after market studs work just fine with most aftermarket rockers.
Are you running some crazy setup? more info on your parts would be nice.
Find it odd that you need longer rocker arm studs anyways. Most after market studs work just fine with most aftermarket rockers.
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TECH Veteran
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 4,985
Likes: 112
you don't need "aftermarket" rocker studs to run RR.
What may be happening is these studs you bought have longer thread base for use with guide plates...with that said the stud "above" these threads should be the same length as stock.
ARP makes the correct RR stud for LT1 or just use your stock ones
What may be happening is these studs you bought have longer thread base for use with guide plates...with that said the stud "above" these threads should be the same length as stock.
ARP makes the correct RR stud for LT1 or just use your stock ones
TECH Regular
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 452
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From: Sacramento, CA
What is the part number for the studs? If you are hitting the helicoils on the heads with the stud I would grind down the bottom part of the studs. Not too much. About 2 threads off the bottom should do. A dab of red locktite and torque to spec. You do NOT want those washers underneath the stud.
When I was buying studs I wanted to go with ARP, but aparently they don't make any for use without a guideplate, which is why yours are bottoming out. Some are made longer to go with guide plates. ARP might make some, but I couldn't find them when I looked.
LE recommended the Comp Cams rocker studs, not sure of the part number, but that's the direction I went. About $40 from summit IIRC. I stayed 3/8".
LE recommended the Comp Cams rocker studs, not sure of the part number, but that's the direction I went. About $40 from summit IIRC. I stayed 3/8".
