LT1-LT4 Modifications 1993-97 Gen II Small Block V8

pushrod/rocker problem

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Old Jul 27, 2011 | 06:39 PM
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Default pushrod/rocker problem

I've run into an issue while trying to select the proper pushrod lenght for my 95 LT1. First off the first problem I ran into was I told I need to upgrade my rocker studs due to the extra lenght on hte stud for the roller rockers, so I did this and ran into my first problem the bottom portion of my aftermarket studs were to long and bottomed out in my aluminum head before properly seating so the store gave me some washers that corrected this problem so onto my current problem of trying to determine proper pushrod lenght the stock rod appears a little to long as the tip of the rocker is not hitting dead center of the valve tip but when I try to use my pushrod length checker set on a shorter rod the bottom of the roller rocker housing comes in contact with the base of the rocker stud, if seems if I didnt have the washers under the studs I'd have a few more thousandths of clearance....but for now I'm stuck at a stand still not sure which direction to go it seems the fix would be ot find some rocker studs that are meant for roller rockers but not guidplates...
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Old Jul 27, 2011 | 06:43 PM
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all i can say is that ive never seen a setup where people have washers between the rocker arm stud and the cylinder head. I think you need to correct that problem. seems ghetto and wrong, but maybe thats how they do it.

Are you running some crazy setup? more info on your parts would be nice.

Find it odd that you need longer rocker arm studs anyways. Most after market studs work just fine with most aftermarket rockers.
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Old Jul 27, 2011 | 10:03 PM
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On my LE 2 heads I never had to put a washer under the stud. That sounds a little odd to me. It sounds like the stud is incorrect.
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Old Jul 28, 2011 | 07:04 AM
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Yeah, washers don't belong there and who ever gave you those to put in should be fired.
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Old Jul 28, 2011 | 07:17 AM
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You more than likely have the wrong studs. NO washers should be under them.
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Old Jul 28, 2011 | 08:23 AM
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^ what they just said...........in no case.......EVER......should there be washers used underneath a rocker stud........either get different studs or trim the ones you have down.......
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Old Jul 28, 2011 | 09:03 AM
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Originally Posted by trilkb
all i can say is that ive never seen a setup where people have washers between the rocker arm stud and the cylinder head. I think you need to correct that problem. seems ghetto and wrong, but maybe thats how they do it.

Are you running some crazy setup? more info on your parts would be nice.

Find it odd that you need longer rocker arm studs anyways. Most after market studs work just fine with most aftermarket rockers.
No I'm not running any sort of of crazy setup my setup is mostly stock (ie. Stock aluminum heads). The use of the washers under the studs seemed a bit rigged to me as well, I was was told by the performance parts store that I needed aftermarket studs for the roller rockers, but the most aftermarket studs were intended for use with guide plates so the washers (which I believe are head bolt washers) were used to make up the difference as to where the guide plates would be (one washer per stud), how long is the portion of the OE rocker studs that screws to the head, and is there an aftermarket stud that has the same length on this portion but with the longer top part? What studs are you guys running?
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Old Jul 28, 2011 | 09:51 AM
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I ran a set of GMPP RR on stock studs for three years without a problem. On most builds that is all you need unless switching to a larger 7/16 one.
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Old Jul 28, 2011 | 10:58 AM
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you don't need "aftermarket" rocker studs to run RR.

What may be happening is these studs you bought have longer thread base for use with guide plates...with that said the stud "above" these threads should be the same length as stock.

ARP makes the correct RR stud for LT1 or just use your stock ones
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Old Jul 28, 2011 | 11:02 AM
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What is the part number for the studs? If you are hitting the helicoils on the heads with the stud I would grind down the bottom part of the studs. Not too much. About 2 threads off the bottom should do. A dab of red locktite and torque to spec. You do NOT want those washers underneath the stud.
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Old Jul 28, 2011 | 11:25 AM
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Thread sealant, not Loctite.
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Old Jul 28, 2011 | 11:43 AM
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His are stock heads IIRC. If so I don't believe he needs thread sealant on any of his studs. On mine I used thread sealant and red locktite.
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Old Jul 28, 2011 | 11:56 AM
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Originally Posted by food nd cars
His are stock heads IIRC. If so I don't believe he needs thread sealant on any of his studs. On mine I used thread sealant and red locktite.
In no way shape or form should you use loctite on your roscker studs.... ouch
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Old Jul 28, 2011 | 12:47 PM
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Just get the right studs for the job.
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Old Jul 28, 2011 | 01:03 PM
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Originally Posted by Mystery Bird
Just get the right studs for the job.
now theres a good idea
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Old Jul 28, 2011 | 01:03 PM
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When I was buying studs I wanted to go with ARP, but aparently they don't make any for use without a guideplate, which is why yours are bottoming out. Some are made longer to go with guide plates. ARP might make some, but I couldn't find them when I looked.

LE recommended the Comp Cams rocker studs, not sure of the part number, but that's the direction I went. About $40 from summit IIRC. I stayed 3/8".
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Old Jul 28, 2011 | 01:16 PM
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ahhhhh come on you guys don't like using loctite? only makes things a lil harder to take apart
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Old Jul 28, 2011 | 01:47 PM
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have a bench grinder handy? could make quick work of things.
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Old Jul 28, 2011 | 02:08 PM
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Comp part # 4502-16 for 3/8" rocker studs. Basically factory size but much stronger.
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