24X harness repin?
08-17-2011, 09:00 PM
#21
^ Thanks, but I just printed out all of the info for the pcm connectors on the lt1 now I am going to look up the info for a 2000 z28. This job is starting to look simple; I am sure I can have it done in one day, just depends on how dificult it is to remove the pins from the old harness and install them into the new ls1 connectors.
08-17-2011, 11:32 PM
#23
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^ Yes it is I just realized I had a old harness in my gerage, so I decided to give it a shot and try to remove some pins on the harness; it took me nolonger than a couple seconds to pull a pin out. One day and I should have it all done. From what I understand I will only have to deal with the 4 pcm connectors on the lt1 harness and add wires for the cam sensor and coils. I am thinking the factory 96-97 crank sensor wiring will be used.
08-18-2011, 12:10 PM
#25
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^ O.K I see thanks a lot I am going to be getting the kit in the mail today or tomorrow. I will start on it tomorrow hope I can get atleast one of the lt1 connectors pined into the ls1 connectors; I will let you guys know how it goes and hopefully post some decent dyno numbeers with my little hot cam.
08-19-2011, 01:24 AM
#31
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http://www.performabuilt.com/level-1.html under 1500 if you reuse your stall; sell your trans for a few bucks if you want to cut a few hundred off the cost. You will need a few other things to convert to the 24x; man I thought it was a pain for me to swap over to the efi 24x, I am glad I have a 97 now.
08-19-2011, 04:24 AM
#32
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There has been much debate about using a 1994 or 1995 4L60E with any 1996-newer PCM. This is what I've heard (and I don't know how correct the following information is)...
1994 4L60E
Not desirable. Different than 1995. Does not have provision in the valve body for TCC solenoid.
1995 4L60E
Provision to receive 1996-newer wire harness and solenoids. One person has suggested nothing but success and thousand(s) of miles after a simple harness and solenoid swap. Another has expressed failure and insists that the valve body, pump, solenoids, and internal harness must all be swapped.
With conflicting information, I would suggest using a 1996-newer transmission or working with a trusted transmission builder.
1994 4L60E
Not desirable. Different than 1995. Does not have provision in the valve body for TCC solenoid.
1995 4L60E
Provision to receive 1996-newer wire harness and solenoids. One person has suggested nothing but success and thousand(s) of miles after a simple harness and solenoid swap. Another has expressed failure and insists that the valve body, pump, solenoids, and internal harness must all be swapped.
With conflicting information, I would suggest using a 1996-newer transmission or working with a trusted transmission builder.
08-19-2011, 02:14 PM
#34
Ah ok..
What I put in bold is the correct information..seen them side-by-side broken down and that is the correct info. A friend of mine has been building since the 70's..he showed me when I asked him. 
There has been much debate about using a 1994 or 1995 4L60E with any 1996-newer PCM. This is what I've heard (and I don't know how correct the following information is)...
1994 4L60E
Not desirable. Different than 1995. Does not have provision in the valve body for TCC solenoid.
1995 4L60E
Provision to receive 1996-newer wire harness and solenoids. One person has suggested nothing but success and thousand(s) of miles after a simple harness and solenoid swap. Another has expressed failure and insists that the valve body, pump, solenoids, and internal harness must all be swapped.
With conflicting information, I would suggest using a 1996-newer transmission or working with a trusted transmission builder.
1994 4L60E
Not desirable. Different than 1995. Does not have provision in the valve body for TCC solenoid.
1995 4L60E
Provision to receive 1996-newer wire harness and solenoids. One person has suggested nothing but success and thousand(s) of miles after a simple harness and solenoid swap. Another has expressed failure and insists that the valve body, pump, solenoids, and internal harness must all be swapped.
With conflicting information, I would suggest using a 1996-newer transmission or working with a trusted transmission builder.
08-19-2011, 08:02 PM
#35
I looked at performabuilt today n everything I read looks pretty good. I also really like the fact they don't require a core and there is free shipping. They even got layaway!!!!! I think cuz they're a sponsor I will most likely go with them. Now you don't think I should have an issue with the converter fitting right? They should be the same size for 93-97
08-20-2011, 12:01 AM
#36
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^ Your converter should work. Now I am starting on the repin tomorrow; got home too late today, I have a qustions about the parts I got in the mail today. I am wondering why I Got a new junction for communicating with the pcm; do I need to make changes to the one already installed under the driver side dash inside the car?
08-20-2011, 05:51 AM
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^ Your converter should work. Now I am starting on the repin tomorrow; got home too late today, I have a qustions about the parts I got in the mail today. I am wondering why I Got a new junction for communicating with the pcm; do I need to make changes to the one already installed under the driver side dash inside the car?
96-97 DIY kits do not include a new DLC because no changes are required at the DLC
Each DIY kit has its own part number.
08-20-2011, 11:18 AM
#39
Yup..
Here's some pics to help..I posted them in another thread earlier..
Flip the Connector over and with a pic carefully remove the retaining clip..depress the little tab in the slot on each side of them and slightly pull..
To remove the Pin just push it forward a hair, then with your finger nail pull up on the tab..then pull the pin through the other side..
Then when you have the other one out just push it through and it locks in place. When you are finished put everything back together and you are done..
Here's some pics to help..I posted them in another thread earlier..
Flip the Connector over and with a pic carefully remove the retaining clip..depress the little tab in the slot on each side of them and slightly pull..
To remove the Pin just push it forward a hair, then with your finger nail pull up on the tab..then pull the pin through the other side..
Then when you have the other one out just push it through and it locks in place. When you are finished put everything back together and you are done..