LT1-LT4 Modifications 1993-97 Gen II Small Block V8

iv got a few tuning questions

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Old Aug 15, 2011 | 04:48 PM
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Default iv got a few tuning questions

im using tunercats

im curious what my knock settings should be at to eliminate false knock. as soon as i open my cutouts, my knock sensor goes nuts.

my extended spark table says i should be at 32 degrees advanced at wot. datalogger says its at 36 degrees. i cant find out where the other 4 degrees is comming from
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Old Aug 15, 2011 | 05:34 PM
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From what i gather The PCM adds timing from a table nobody has found. Just adjust with that in mind.
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Old Aug 15, 2011 | 07:08 PM
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seriously? thats fucked up
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Old Aug 16, 2011 | 09:44 AM
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Originally Posted by LSWHO
From what i gather The PCM adds timing from a table nobody has found. Just adjust with that in mind.
Have you ever even tuned or tweaked on a tune for the LT1? Where the heck did you get that bit of wonderful information?

ElkySS - go to your Max knock retard vs. RPM (in PE) table and make sure anything above 4K is set to 0. Then go to your Max KR vs. MAP (not in PE) and set all tables (MAP reading where you are picking up knock - from your log) to 0. Lastly, go to your Burst Knock Retard vs. Coolant Temp and change all cells from -40-68 deg to 0. That should cover you and I'd recc. getting a LT4 km to help out with that false knock. You know how to reach me so call me if you need any help or have any questions.
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Old Aug 16, 2011 | 10:53 AM
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if i set my pe tables to 0, how will i know when to stop advancing the timing?
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Old Aug 16, 2011 | 10:55 AM
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Originally Posted by DAVE00
Have you ever even tuned or tweaked on a tune for the LT1? Where the heck did you get that bit of wonderful information?

...
Probably from countless tuning threads where people were trying to find timing advance that was seemingly unaccounted for by known tables. Why are you jumping on the guy when this question has been around for a long time?
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Old Aug 16, 2011 | 10:58 AM
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Originally Posted by shbox
Probably from countless tuning threads where people were trying to find timing advance that was seemingly unaccounted for by known tables. Why are you jumping on the guy when this question has been around for a long time?
Shbox - I highly doubt there is a hidden table in there somewhere. If so why has it never been shown or proven and the LT1 has been out for almost 20 years now?
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Old Aug 16, 2011 | 11:00 AM
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Originally Posted by ElkySS
if i set my pe tables to 0, how will i know when to stop advancing the timing?
Not sure, but if you are seeing knock (true or false knock) why are you seeing advance? You should have retard associated with knock and that is what the tables I listed above are for.
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Old Aug 16, 2011 | 11:10 AM
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that would get rid of false knock, but wouldnt that render the knock sensor completely useless at wot?
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Old Aug 16, 2011 | 11:12 AM
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Originally Posted by ElkySS
that would get rid of false knock, but wouldnt that render the knock sensor completely useless at wot?
Unfortunately, yes.

If you are having the false knock at WOT you have no choice unless you want to try the LT4 KM and see if that helps desensitize it enough.
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Old Aug 16, 2011 | 11:22 AM
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im not seeing any knock at all at wot with the cutouts closed but im only at 36 degrees. havent tried it with them open yet. im seeing random small retard. like less than a degree in most places. the biggest knock i see is in a high gear, low rpm when i hit the gas.
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Old Aug 16, 2011 | 06:55 PM
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Originally Posted by DAVE00
Shbox - I highly doubt there is a hidden table in there somewhere. If so why has it never been shown or proven and the LT1 has been out for almost 20 years now?
Well, if it is hidden, there is your answer why no one has seen it. I'm just saying that there is some advance that no one have been able to find where it comes from. Those discussions have been around for years.
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Old Aug 16, 2011 | 08:15 PM
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I would make a track tune for your car and just set all the Kock tables to zero like stated. load it up and make a run, see what happens.

Cut outs are for the track, your good with them closed and on the street so that would be my soloution. Or just limit what can be puledl. Max it out to like 2?
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Old Aug 16, 2011 | 09:12 PM
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Originally Posted by trilkb
I would make a track tune for your car and just set all the Kock tables to zero like stated. load it up and make a run, see what happens.

Cut outs are for the track, your good with them closed and on the street so that would be my soloution. Or just limit what can be puledl. Max it out to like 2?
That's actually a pretty good idea. Honestly, most of the guys that go with large cams and bigger motors end up with so much false knock they end up completely tuning out the KS.
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Old Aug 17, 2011 | 12:28 AM
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what if i used the knock sensor to add timing with the cutouts closed. then when i hit knock, back it off 2 degrees and then disable the knock sensor under wot.
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Old Aug 17, 2011 | 12:54 AM
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Damn this thread just gets better with every post. Lmao
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Old Aug 17, 2011 | 12:58 AM
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Originally Posted by DAVE00
Have you ever even tuned or tweaked on a tune for the LT1? Where the heck did you get that bit of wonderful information?

ElkySS - go to your Max knock retard vs. RPM (in PE) table and make sure anything above 4K is set to 0. Then go to your Max KR vs. MAP (not in PE) and set all tables (MAP reading where you are picking up knock - from your log) to 0. Lastly, go to your Burst Knock Retard vs. Coolant Temp and change all cells from -40-68 deg to 0. That should cover you and I'd recc. getting a LT4 km to help out with that false knock. You know how to reach me so call me if you need any help or have any questions.
Lol. I think shbox covered this for me. I guess with my zero experience I still seem to know more than you. And that makes me cry for you.
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Old Aug 17, 2011 | 01:40 AM
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I think this is a situation where several people in here should not be tuning until they can figure out what they're doing.
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Old Aug 17, 2011 | 08:02 AM
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I agree with the above.
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Old Aug 17, 2011 | 08:29 AM
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thats what im trying to do. can anyone tell me why my last post wont work?
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