prep on lt1 for s10
08-25-2011, 06:26 PM
#21
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But spinning at higher rpms and in return making more power up there is where the stock manifold starts to fall short correct? IMO if your using a carb your trying to make good hp numbers for either drag racing or street racing. So your more likely than not spinning higher rpms. and if your spinning higher then your probably trying to flow more air where the vic jr will out perform the stock intake.
If the stock intake flowed so good then why don't Tony use it on his car? or any of the other guys? i understand there engine are much more advanced then 90% of the people out there will ever go, but if the lt1 intake ported flowed so good and made good numbers up top then they would be using similar designed intakes. The stock lt1 intake does not control the air flow as well as a single plane bottom line, you can see this just looking at the runners of the Vic vs LT1. The lt1 intake tracks don't curve to direct air or flow air smooth, the air spinning inside almost hits a wall to be sucked down into the cylinder. the back cylinders have to fight for more air on cammed engines. Thats why those are most likely to have issues on most cars. A single plane has a much more effective way of dispersing the air flow. I already agreed that my original suggestion of the vic in probably to much for the OP. But if he had a good cam,gears, and wanted a better single plane than what GM offers us LTx guys then a Vic jr is a great candidate.$200-250 for intake Maybe 100-200 in machine work. You could have a pretty sick intake set up, and still run efi or carb. if you wanted to swap down the road. Sorry OP for the thread jack.
If the stock intake flowed so good then why don't Tony use it on his car? or any of the other guys? i understand there engine are much more advanced then 90% of the people out there will ever go, but if the lt1 intake ported flowed so good and made good numbers up top then they would be using similar designed intakes. The stock lt1 intake does not control the air flow as well as a single plane bottom line, you can see this just looking at the runners of the Vic vs LT1. The lt1 intake tracks don't curve to direct air or flow air smooth, the air spinning inside almost hits a wall to be sucked down into the cylinder. the back cylinders have to fight for more air on cammed engines. Thats why those are most likely to have issues on most cars. A single plane has a much more effective way of dispersing the air flow. I already agreed that my original suggestion of the vic in probably to much for the OP. But if he had a good cam,gears, and wanted a better single plane than what GM offers us LTx guys then a Vic jr is a great candidate.$200-250 for intake Maybe 100-200 in machine work. You could have a pretty sick intake set up, and still run efi or carb. if you wanted to swap down the road. Sorry OP for the thread jack.
08-26-2011, 01:03 AM
#22
Most people who switch to a carb usually do so because they lack the knowledge to tune a fuel injection system. FI can make just as much if not more power than a carb, but we'll definitely not cross that bridge.
I don't disagree with (most) of what you said, despite much of it being opinion rather than fact. Honestly it is blatantly obvious you don't know what it takes to convert to a single plane - far more than the $300 to $450 you seem to think. Been there, done that.
I have no problem spinning my stock manifold up to 7k. Then again I am not going for a *****-out max effort drag-race build either (and it doesn't sound like the OP is either). Car pulls to 455whp and doesn't show any signs of dropping until 6800. Seems okay to me.
You still neglect the valvetrain-RPM issue. This is exactly what I'm talking about:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/5929007-post13.html
I'll stop there.
I don't disagree with (most) of what you said, despite much of it being opinion rather than fact. Honestly it is blatantly obvious you don't know what it takes to convert to a single plane - far more than the $300 to $450 you seem to think. Been there, done that.
I have no problem spinning my stock manifold up to 7k. Then again I am not going for a *****-out max effort drag-race build either (and it doesn't sound like the OP is either). Car pulls to 455whp and doesn't show any signs of dropping until 6800. Seems okay to me.
You still neglect the valvetrain-RPM issue. This is exactly what I'm talking about:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/5929007-post13.html
I'll stop there.
08-26-2011, 05:44 AM
#23
I gained from 3500-up with my single plane, but it's a pretty optimized setup well beyond what the OP is looking for.
It sounds like the OP just wants to make use of an engine he already has with a vehicle he already has for as little pain as possible. For that the GM dual plane + carb + dist would be really hard to beat. It wouldn't be faster than the stock intake but he doesn't even mention racing the thing. It would make good power with healthy torque on the bottom end while being simple and cheap. I'm thinking of doing the same thing myself putting an "extra" LT1 I have laying around into my old '63 Belair.
It sounds like the OP just wants to make use of an engine he already has with a vehicle he already has for as little pain as possible. For that the GM dual plane + carb + dist would be really hard to beat. It wouldn't be faster than the stock intake but he doesn't even mention racing the thing. It would make good power with healthy torque on the bottom end while being simple and cheap. I'm thinking of doing the same thing myself putting an "extra" LT1 I have laying around into my old '63 Belair.
08-26-2011, 06:27 AM
#24
Just because people do things doesn't mean they are the right things. We have seen NA LT1 GM heads and intake go 9s with an opti on pump gas compression, but everyone here thinks they need a 24x setup, aftermarket heads and a single plane to run 11s.
The see the 9 second NA LT1 but then drool over the low 10 second car with half again the coin in a motor with converted gen 1 heads and intake and non-opti distributor, in a lighter car etc.. To me that is the definition of failure even if it is fast. One guy goes 11s in a 3500lbs car for $8k and another goes the same speed for $12k in a 3100lbs car who's advise is worth listening too?
The see the 9 second NA LT1 but then drool over the low 10 second car with half again the coin in a motor with converted gen 1 heads and intake and non-opti distributor, in a lighter car etc.. To me that is the definition of failure even if it is fast. One guy goes 11s in a 3500lbs car for $8k and another goes the same speed for $12k in a 3100lbs car who's advise is worth listening too?
08-26-2011, 07:18 AM
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Thanks for all the replies everyone. Indeed i've have the motor and truck for awhile jus haven't been able to do much work on it. I also don't know much about the FI thats why I'm tryin to go carb. Cuz when something goes wrong there i know what it more then likely is but when it comes to FI i would have no clue due to all the sensors. Everything i'm tryin to change on the motor is the intake manifold from FI to carb, taking the opti spark off and puttin a dist in the back replacong the water pump with belt driven and putting a mild cam in it as well. I'm not intending for this to be a race car but something that is going to sound good look good and easy for me to work on with my budget.
08-26-2011, 07:36 AM
#26
If that's the case then I would buy the book "How to Rebuild LT1 and LT4 Engines" by Mike Mavrigian. They rebuild an LT1 to do exactly what you're looking for and include part numbers and everything. I'd be reading that far more than this forum. 
08-26-2011, 07:42 AM
#27
This is going to be a long hard road for you. As I already tried to address once in this thread the stock LT1 waterpump is not electric and you are not going to find a belt driven pump for it.
If you don't understand the piece how are you going to accomplish something this involved?
08-26-2011, 01:30 PM
#32
With many shops selling engines without core charges these days, when one has an LT1 laying around he wants to stick into some old vehicle for the heck of it, often the case is that his stock intake, opti, pcm, wiring harness, all sensors, etc, are on his new engine in the F-body and all he has to work with is a naked longblock. Assuming anybody who wants to do something different must have fallen for some grand conspiracy telling him he needs to spend money on fancy stuff will often be wrong.
Throwing a carb and a distributor on it becomes an even more attractive option when the alternative is buying a complete second set of all the stock stuff and adapting it to a car that isn't set up for it already.
While it turns out not to be the case for the OP, we didn't know that until this morning's post.
Throwing a carb and a distributor on it becomes an even more attractive option when the alternative is buying a complete second set of all the stock stuff and adapting it to a car that isn't set up for it already.
While it turns out not to be the case for the OP, we didn't know that until this morning's post.
08-26-2011, 03:00 PM
#33
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I swapped an LT1/4L60 E into a 93 S-10, using a stock f-body harness and ECM, had all the S-10s gauges working. The thing was a SWB regular cab , We lowered the thing nad put some pacers and stock 93 Ta wheels and tires on it. 3100 pounds with me (230#) in it !!!! Needless to say it was a blast, I used gen 1 LT headers and mount kits , the V8 conversion radiator (dont use the stock 4.3 or 2.8 radiator). The little truck even had 3.73s in the rear stock. Traction was a major problem , but with a set of stikies leaving it in D it ran high 12s low 13s all day long!!!
Definately keep the FI and overdrive transmission, the thing was an absolute blast , hated to see my oldest sell it, but he did buy an f-body so I can't complain too much.
Definately keep the FI and overdrive transmission, the thing was an absolute blast , hated to see my oldest sell it, but he did buy an f-body so I can't complain too much.
08-26-2011, 03:05 PM
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Sorry my post was full of run-on sentences and mis-spellings, but its hard to type and eat at the same time.
Short of it, keep the FI and OD, will be the most fun ever.
Short of it, keep the FI and OD, will be the most fun ever.
03-02-2016, 07:13 AM
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I put an Lt1 in my 98 S 10 blazer, it's an absolute blast to drive. I did retain fuel injection, thats not that hard to do this page http://www.lt1swap.com/lt1_pcm_pinout.htm is an absolute god send for anyone considering this task. I also highly recommend V8S10.org for all other needed V8 swap info. If you have any other questions that cant be answered in those links feel free to PM me and I will provide any help I can. 1 thing that pinout sheet doesnt cover is the injector 12v supply .do not remove those from the harness or you will have to solder them back in. trust me on that I learned the hard way and I'm an ASE master auto tech. but hey who's perfect?
03-02-2016, 05:31 PM
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Dear Superspirit I was wondering if in order to run w/o and gauges such as gas,Voss,oil,temp,etc can you help there? Plug C100 can you tell me what each pin and wire color does if you can't help is there anybody out there that knows please let me know. I nervous about butchering my harness more power to you