Starting 383 Build...Input?
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Starting 383 Build...Input? I know there are a MILLION 383 build threads on here, but I want to make sure I get this right, so here is my plan!
Stock LT1 Block bored .060
Callies Compstar 4340 Forged 383 Crankshaft
Callies Compstar H-Beam 6.000" Connecting Rods
Forged -5cc Pistons (what brand is recommended?)
ACL Race Bearings
ARP2000 Rod Bolts
A.I. 215cc TrickFlow 23* Heads
A.I. Custom Grind Camshaft
I will also be sending my stock Intake Manifold in to A.I. before I order my heads to have it opened up and matched to the A.I. heads.
I also would like to know what piston rings would be the best for this application? I plan on running a 150 to a 200 shot soon as well.
Current mods that will not be changing are: LS1 Style Air Intake System, 58mm Throttle Body, LPP Headers and Comp Cams Ultra Pro Magnum 1.6 NSA Roller Rockers.
Last thing I need to know...I currently have Ford SVO 30# Injectors, LS7 Lifters and Stock Oil Pump...do I need to upgrade and if so what do you suggest?
My goal is not necessarily to maximize the 383 Stroker, but I would like to get 75% of what it is capable of if possible! I appreciate the help!
Stock LT1 Block bored .060
Callies Compstar 4340 Forged 383 Crankshaft
Callies Compstar H-Beam 6.000" Connecting Rods
Forged -5cc Pistons (what brand is recommended?)
ACL Race Bearings
ARP2000 Rod Bolts
A.I. 215cc TrickFlow 23* Heads
A.I. Custom Grind Camshaft
I will also be sending my stock Intake Manifold in to A.I. before I order my heads to have it opened up and matched to the A.I. heads.
I also would like to know what piston rings would be the best for this application? I plan on running a 150 to a 200 shot soon as well.
Current mods that will not be changing are: LS1 Style Air Intake System, 58mm Throttle Body, LPP Headers and Comp Cams Ultra Pro Magnum 1.6 NSA Roller Rockers.
Last thing I need to know...I currently have Ford SVO 30# Injectors, LS7 Lifters and Stock Oil Pump...do I need to upgrade and if so what do you suggest?
My goal is not necessarily to maximize the 383 Stroker, but I would like to get 75% of what it is capable of if possible! I appreciate the help!
Going .060" over is entirely unnecessary and ill-advised. You can run the walls that thin just fine, but if you ever have to tear down the block it's useless after .060". Those few extra cubes won't make or break your build. .030" of course is the most popular for cubes and reliability.
The ACL stuff is nice, but also probably overkill. I like the Clevite H-series bearings. They have a lengthy reliability record.
There are a ton of good piston manufacturers to consider. If I were going to do my 383 build over again I would have invested in a nice set of Diamonds, but the SRP pistons I have now work just fine also.
Those 30# injectors will not be enough N/A so plan on some bigger ones for sure. Your nitrous setup will also be a big factor on injector selection.
The stock oil pump and the LS7s will be fine, but I would upgrade to the Melling 10554. It has a more robust casting and includes a hardened drive shaft. Also consider a larger aftermarket oil pan like the popular Moroso or Canton 242T.
The ACL stuff is nice, but also probably overkill. I like the Clevite H-series bearings. They have a lengthy reliability record.
There are a ton of good piston manufacturers to consider. If I were going to do my 383 build over again I would have invested in a nice set of Diamonds, but the SRP pistons I have now work just fine also.
Those 30# injectors will not be enough N/A so plan on some bigger ones for sure. Your nitrous setup will also be a big factor on injector selection.
The stock oil pump and the LS7s will be fine, but I would upgrade to the Melling 10554. It has a more robust casting and includes a hardened drive shaft. Also consider a larger aftermarket oil pan like the popular Moroso or Canton 242T.
Last edited by RamAir95TA; Sep 5, 2011 at 07:41 AM.
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I would not be going .060 if I did not have to...my block is already bored .040 so I have no other option but to go .060.
I will definitely look into the diamonds and the clevites, thanks!
I will be running both na and sprayed at the track but this car is also a cruiser and weekend driver. I will have an OBD1 pcm and both an NA tune and a nitrous tune on t that I can load at any time at the track from my laptop, so what objectors would be ideal?
Do I have to modify anything to install one of those oil pans or no?
I will definitely look into the diamonds and the clevites, thanks!
I will be running both na and sprayed at the track but this car is also a cruiser and weekend driver. I will have an OBD1 pcm and both an NA tune and a nitrous tune on t that I can load at any time at the track from my laptop, so what objectors would be ideal?
Do I have to modify anything to install one of those oil pans or no?
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Cooling issues aren't a problem, it will be fine it just can't be rebuilt again. I would prefer to keep this block if at all possible, but we will see.
The cam does not have specs yet...I am just now starting to plan this. I will have it speced to the new heads/bore/intake.
The cam does not have specs yet...I am just now starting to plan this. I will have it speced to the new heads/bore/intake.
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Considering a 150 shot of spray. Direct Port kit from Nitrous Outlet. Not sure yet though. Also I may have found an unmolested LT1 block that spun a bearing for $300...I may buy it and do the .030 because I don't wanna take any chances with this now that I think about it...I wanna do this right.
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Yeah I know 300 is pricey, but it is the only thing local and everything else would end up that price by the time it got here...I just got him to drop the price to 275 with the timing cover, but he wanted to charge me $60 for the timing cover ALONE! I wasnt liking that very much lol.
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a 396 takes too much machining and too much...well....everything...for me to complete in a reasonable amount of time lol. I wish I COULD do a 396, but I am just not able to...if your ARP's were for a 383 I would buy em! lol
I'm running Diamond pistons in my 383 with clevite bearings and I'm happy with the way the motor performs. I'm also running 60lb injectors in mine, I know it's alittle overkill but future plans are to run a procharger and will need the extra injector. I think the 42's should be fine for your application
42's will be fine. And the difference in machine work for a 396 compared to a 383 is minimal at worst. The only thing is watching how far you go when clearancing the oil pan rail. But if you're not careful you can do that on a 383 as well. Food for thought, the price isn't that much different.
And is suppose I shouldn't mention the fact that I found a 96/97 timing cover for $20 out here then...
And is suppose I shouldn't mention the fact that I found a 96/97 timing cover for $20 out here then...
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I'd look into the CP Bullet series pistons, ACL bearings are great. We juggle ACL or Clevite bearings to get the right clearances. ACL seams to run .0005 looser that the Clevite of the same part. $300 is high for that block, but if you have to truck freight one in that will bump up the cost too. We've got piles of LT blocks if you need one. A 396 is about the same cost as a 383 if you use Scat stuff. The Callies, It would be a bit more because you have to step up to the dragonslayer crank.
