Happy Hooker Writeup?
09-11-2011, 01:35 PM
#1
Happy Hooker Writeup? I am going to be using the happy hooker to remove the engine within the next few weeks and wondered if anyone has a writeup or would be able to tell me what all has to be removed (accessories, etc.) to get it out the top. I have done plenty of searching and haven’t come up with much of anything. Are there any tips or tricks that would be good to know?
PS: If you are going to post in here just to tell me to take it out the bottom you can just go ahead and click the back button. Thanks
PS: If you are going to post in here just to tell me to take it out the bottom you can just go ahead and click the back button. Thanks
09-11-2011, 03:44 PM
#3
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I suggest leaving the acc bracket off and balncer off. Then slide it in and bolt it together. I have not used the happy hooker. but i only install from the top and pull the intake to install and remove. I even leave the manifolds on most of the time.
09-11-2011, 03:57 PM
#4
To use the happy hooker it can only be a complete longblock... No headers, no accessories, no hub/balancer... Also no exhaust manifolds or headers... Only the intake to the oil pan... Passenger side valvecover can also be installed...
AChotrod has it installed backwards on his motor, the curve of the hooker goes to the front so that you can clear the cowl once it is in...
I have done at least 2 dozen swaps with the Happy Hooker over the years... Great tool...
AChotrod has it installed backwards on his motor, the curve of the hooker goes to the front so that you can clear the cowl once it is in...
I have done at least 2 dozen swaps with the Happy Hooker over the years... Great tool...
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09-11-2011, 05:29 PM
#8
I am borrowing one from someone right now, but you can get them from TPiS.
http://www.tpis.com/parts/view/67
http://www.tpis.com/parts/view/67
09-12-2011, 05:00 PM
#10
This is the way I have done it with the hooker.
1st. I had to drill a new hole in the boom of my engine hoist. Measured the difference between each hole which are 1000lbs difference. Cut that measurement in half and drilled the hole just past the 1000lbs hole to be about 500lbs. This will help clear the front nose without messing up the paint.
After that I pulled that engine by removing the radiator, and all Acc's on the engine. you can leave the opti and the hub but may or may not have to remove the water pump and damper. This all depends on weather or not you have you A/C lines still connected to the condenser. I don't have A/C right now so it much easier to turn the engine in the engine bay to make things clear.
I also remove the engine mounts completely.
You have to decide if you want to disconnect the trans and just put a trans jack under it or remove it completely. A 4 wheel trans jack strapped to the trans while holding the trans up and leaving the torque arm still connected will make sure the trans wont try to come with the engine. I keep all 4 wheels on the ground and the hood stays on. If you remove the hood you will have an easier time getting it out with A/C lines still connected in the car.
Here is a pick of what it looks like. I wish I had stopped and taken some in between but it went so well it was done before I had a chance.
1st. I had to drill a new hole in the boom of my engine hoist. Measured the difference between each hole which are 1000lbs difference. Cut that measurement in half and drilled the hole just past the 1000lbs hole to be about 500lbs. This will help clear the front nose without messing up the paint.
After that I pulled that engine by removing the radiator, and all Acc's on the engine. you can leave the opti and the hub but may or may not have to remove the water pump and damper. This all depends on weather or not you have you A/C lines still connected to the condenser. I don't have A/C right now so it much easier to turn the engine in the engine bay to make things clear.
I also remove the engine mounts completely.
You have to decide if you want to disconnect the trans and just put a trans jack under it or remove it completely. A 4 wheel trans jack strapped to the trans while holding the trans up and leaving the torque arm still connected will make sure the trans wont try to come with the engine. I keep all 4 wheels on the ground and the hood stays on. If you remove the hood you will have an easier time getting it out with A/C lines still connected in the car.
Here is a pick of what it looks like. I wish I had stopped and taken some in between but it went so well it was done before I had a chance.
09-12-2011, 05:07 PM
#11
Also When you put the engine back in and you have it at the point in my photos above, this is a great time to possition your headers back up and on to the engine before the engine mount get put back in especially if you have an oil pan with flares and trap doors.
09-13-2011, 12:40 AM
#14
The reason I want it to come out the top is because the car will still have to roll after the motor is out. I am not instantly putting one back in and the car is going to get moved for storage for the winter. I would rather pull the engine once and put it in once. Not drop the k member, put it back in, roll to winter storage, pull out of storage, drop k member, put it back in. Just seems stupid to do it twice.
09-13-2011, 01:10 AM
#15
Well you could do it out the top like I posted or you could do it out the bottom and just take the engine off the K member and just bolt the k member, struts and steering shaft back in and it will roll. It's up to you. If you do what I said as you are putting the engine back in headers are no problem. I lay mine under the car where I can reach them as soon as the engine is down in the bay a bit and then just pick them up and bungee them so they clear until I am ready to bolt them and the mounts back in. Engine mounts are a bit harder that way but not bad. My passenger header goes in real easy so I usually only do it with the driver side since I cant physically get the driver header in the car with the moroso pan on unless the engine can be lifted off the mounts by 3 to 4 inches.
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