Knock after rebuild
Knock after rebuild So I completely rebuilt the entire bottom end. New custom grind cam, trick flow push rods, 1.6 CC NSA RR and single piece racing valves. I have a knock, once it's warmed up, ps it's running w/ open exaust right now. Also, I have an exhaust leak. It definately sounds like a rod knock but it has less than 100 miles on it. Any ideas? It's my LT1, all other mods are below.
Did you build it or did a machine shop do it?
What are your other mods (none listed "below")?
Post a video of the noise.
We didn't build the motor so unfortunately we'll only be able to tell you what the noise is, not what is causing it.
What are your other mods (none listed "below")?
Post a video of the noise.
We didn't build the motor so unfortunately we'll only be able to tell you what the noise is, not what is causing it.
If it sounds like a rod knock start looking for glitter in the oil and filter before risking running it anymore.
Tell us more about the engine. I don't like the sound of
Tell us more about the engine. I don't like the sound of
single piece racing valves.
A reputable shop hot tanked the block, honed the cylinders, cam bearings, Rebuilt and decked the heads with the racing valves and installed new freeze plugs in the block. What about replacing valves that are two pieces forged together wiith single piece stainless steal valves worrys you. To be honest with you the knock is so faint that you would even be able to hear it in a video. I've already tried. It runs like a bat outta hell. I'll change the oil and get back with you. But why would the knock be nonexistent when cold and noticeable when warm?
The ONLY instance I know of a stock valve failing was a nitrous system problem. If the shop sold you on "single piece racing valves" particularly without port work to compliment either they knowingly took advantage of you or are clueless themselves, neither is a good indicator for your build.
a HUGE number of "rebuilt" LT1s are a step backwards and the owners never realize it because they never have anything good to compare too. At the track I have spanked big block Vette, a couple nitrous LS cars, stroker LT1s in f-bodies. They all thought they had something great till a stock shortblock NA Caprice embarrasses them.
If you are not worried about the engine holding together take it to the track and measure the performance, the butt dyno is useless, unless it has EXPERIENCE.
a HUGE number of "rebuilt" LT1s are a step backwards and the owners never realize it because they never have anything good to compare too. At the track I have spanked big block Vette, a couple nitrous LS cars, stroker LT1s in f-bodies. They all thought they had something great till a stock shortblock NA Caprice embarrasses them.
If you are not worried about the engine holding together take it to the track and measure the performance, the butt dyno is useless, unless it has EXPERIENCE.
I'll go ahead and stick with my lightweight valves that flow better and provide me with piece of mind. It was worth and extra $100 IMO. And a 100 shot is definitely in my future.
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