1.6 rr ?

Seriously, you have to trim the OEM valve covers for clearance (on most brands of rockers) and you NEED to change the valve springs. Other than that it's a pretty straight swap.
There is a lot of things to screw up if you don't know what you're doing though.
Only issue I ran into with the valve spring swap was finding a compressor that works on double springs in tight spaces.
I rented a KD tool to get the stock springs off, then bought a cheap 'lever type tool' to install the front 8 springs, then made my own 'Tim's tool' to do do the back 8 springs under the windshield.
I always recommend swapping springs, even be it slight improvement, its better for valve control. We had a local kid not swapping springs over and never an issue but no need to push your luck.
The roller rockers are a bit noisier than the stock arms-- if you open the hood while the cars idling, they sort of sound like a "sewing machine" in the back ground. Not obnoxiously loud, atleast my Pro-Mags aren't.
You'll see a small gain in power, 10-15ish, especially up top if you swap in good valve springs, too.
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52mm TB will help if you have a free flowing exhaust and intake, but it's not worth much. No noticeable difference on a stock vehicle.
U/D pulley: maybe 2hp. It has an advantage of slowing down the accessories though if you have a high revving built engine or if you road race it.
OBD 2: I have no idea why you would want to do that. I converted mine from OBD2 to OBD1 just for ease of tuning (much cheaper software at the time). All B-bodies had Mass Air, whether OBD 1 or 2.
Mass Air is nice, but I wouldn't bother with it if the car wasn't already set up with it. Is that why you're thinking OBD2?
Roller rockers and valve springs will give you more power than a bigger throttle body and underdrive pulleys. Pair that up with headers and a custom tune and you'll have a noticeably quicker car.



