Lt1 advice
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 73
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Lt1 advice I have a 96 z28 lt1 with basic bolt ons intake,Headers,y pipe,3.42's,3000 stall,granitelli suspension and I was wondering what could I do to get me around the mid 12's? As of current I ran a 13.3 @104mph with a 1.9 60 on almost bald sumitumo's on a 90degree day,the budget is at about $900
TECH Fanatic
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 1,255
Likes: 11
From: centerville, ohio
I have a 96 z28 lt1 with basic bolt ons intake,Headers,y pipe,3.42's,3000 stall,granitelli suspension and I was wondering what could I do to get me around the mid 12's? As of current I ran a 13.3 @104mph with a 1.9 60 on almost bald sumitumo's on a 90degree day,the budget is at about $900
1. Get some dr's.
2. Wait for cooler air, 50-60* and see where you are.
3. Switch to a Yank ss 3600
4. Add 1.7's and beehives.
5. Change to a dual system with an X pipe.
Of course you'll want a good tune to start off with.
Once again XJS you are giving bunk advice.
You dont understand how weight and aerodynamic works. Your car runs the 1/8 hard and falls on its face due to weight and aerodynamic conditions that an F body is never going to see.
That's why your ET vs MPH is the way it is. An extreme example of this is big heavy diesel trucks. They often run 12s at BARELY 100 mph or a tad over.
You telling him he should be running mid 12's with a 104 trap is NOT realistic. Is it possible, hell yeah! As long as he leaves like a stock eliminator car.
Most people with a street setup will cut 1.9 to 1.7 at best on the track IN AN F BODY and in that scenario a 104 trap is good for low 13s or squeaking into the 12s given a great 60ft time.
Your suggestions on what to change will pick him up some power, although probably not the cheapest way to go about it.
A good converter alone will almost kill his budget.
I would do 1.7 rockers and springs, a cutout, pull the front sway bar and maybe a set of front drag shocks if you can find them cheap.
Also I would personally do the LS1 lid conversion.
Then its on to little things like running ALL synthetic fluids. Air up your front tires hard. Make sure none of your brakes are dragging, pull as much weight out of the car as possible. Etc Etc
You dont understand how weight and aerodynamic works. Your car runs the 1/8 hard and falls on its face due to weight and aerodynamic conditions that an F body is never going to see.
That's why your ET vs MPH is the way it is. An extreme example of this is big heavy diesel trucks. They often run 12s at BARELY 100 mph or a tad over.
You telling him he should be running mid 12's with a 104 trap is NOT realistic. Is it possible, hell yeah! As long as he leaves like a stock eliminator car.
Most people with a street setup will cut 1.9 to 1.7 at best on the track IN AN F BODY and in that scenario a 104 trap is good for low 13s or squeaking into the 12s given a great 60ft time.
Your suggestions on what to change will pick him up some power, although probably not the cheapest way to go about it.
A good converter alone will almost kill his budget.
I would do 1.7 rockers and springs, a cutout, pull the front sway bar and maybe a set of front drag shocks if you can find them cheap.
Also I would personally do the LS1 lid conversion.
Then its on to little things like running ALL synthetic fluids. Air up your front tires hard. Make sure none of your brakes are dragging, pull as much weight out of the car as possible. Etc Etc
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TECH Fanatic
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 1,255
Likes: 11
From: centerville, ohio
12.82 @ 104 is 12.82 @ 104 no matter how you look at it. You hit the nail on the head about the weight disadvantage. A 500 # pound loss would put me in the F-body range and would also drop my et into the 12.3x's. That's realistic, not bunk. The whole point in drag racing is to leave like a Stock Eliminator car otherwise you'll be stuck in the 13's like you say. I give advice based on what has worked for me.
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TECH Regular
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 492
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From: Rochester, NY
LT1 stock springs aren't exactly the greatest ever made, and will cause float when rev'd high. Valve springs are just as important as rocker arms, pushrods, or studs.
