RamAir95TA

iTrader: (2)

The LTCC overcomplicates things, IMO, and still requires that the (usually more troublesome) optical sensor be in good working order. It's been documented to show no power gains and just adds another degree of complexity to a simple problem - just get an optispark that works. My 383 runs a completely stock ignition system (not including the MSD coil) and I have had zero ignition issues in 8 years when the OEM one finally crapped out. Reading about so many failures and difficulties from "brand name" optisparks, aftermarket systems, COP setups, etc., just reinforces the fact that sometimes keeping it simple is the way to go.

And I don't know about you, but working on a system with ONE coil seems a bit easier than dealing with another harness and EIGHT. Just sayin'.

And the Delteq system has been defunct for years now. Good luck getting any technical support.

Paul Bell

iTrader: (9)

I disagree. When I had a '94, I had nothing but trouble with stock style Optispark distributors. After two units, the cure was the MSD distributor with the LTCC system. Engine response was noticeably improved.

Engine running improvements, reliability and getting the high voltage away from the distributor and optical pickup are the benefits.

Done correctly, the installation can be neat and stock looking.

Also, Delteq appears to be still operational as their website is all there.
http://www.delteq.com/default.htm

RamAir95TA

iTrader: (2)

We'll have to agree to disagree then. Long live the opti!

The website is operational, but I don't think anyone has ordered a "new" kit from them or gotten any technical support in years. The site hasn't been updated since 2005.

Paul Bell

iTrader: (9)

I believe the opti system to be hit or miss. If you have one that works well, more power to you. When I changed to the LTCC, some recurring problems I experienced went away.

As we've both stated, neither Delteq nor the LTCC systems show more power over stock.

Today, if I had to work with a LT1 engine, I wouldn't hesitate to immediately step up to the EFIConnections 24x system. It'd be a no-brainer.

xrambbc

yea i looked into those systems ***** that noise, i have to use my opti still?? uh well what a waste. anyways, got the old factory opti back in with the msd cap and rotor fired right up. but we are having a huge issue that has been going on for 4 years now . . . . the car has no *****, nonezip, zero. if its making 200 wheel right now im doin good. it feels like im on 6 cylinders till 2000 rpm then it spits pops and bangs like im holding a 2 step button. now i have a replaced EVERYTHING that i can think of we have been trying to tune this thing for the past week and every tune gets nowhere doesnt get any better or any worse, i have replaced the PCM, cap and rotor, injectors (4 times), coil (2 times), icm tests good everytime i get it tested, have done every test from that shoebox thread and all seems good. im so close to giving up but all i can think of is replacing the engine harness, mine is kinda hacked from the previous owner, ok its phucked up. and thats the only thing i can think of, today while tuning my gauges decided to freak out and now they are all reading off a tad, tach reads 200 rpm at idle but hp tuners reads 1000 rpm idle, coolant shows 208 at most but the gauge is in the red, oil pressure starts at 80 psi and when you rev it up it burries itself. so im thinking something is phucked in the wiring.

any suggestions would be great this thing should make 800 wheel, 383 stroker 80mm turbo all billet bottom end you name it its in there. but something is keeping it from running for ****. so im thinkin replace the entire engine harness with a virgin one.

xrambbc

the car used to be a beast on 6 psi it made 500 wheel with the old 355 that was in it and a 76mm turbo. but before i bought it he decided to install an accel ignition 300+ box and coil, and his wiring skills sucked ***. i have been fixing connections for a week now that have been hiding under all the loom he used to cover his shitty work up with. grounds were all phucked up, crimps were lose or pulled apart, power wires were twisted together then electric taped together no crimps or solder. so im thinking there is something going on there that is causing all these problems. i took a ride in it when it ran perfect before his ignition upgrade was done and the thing would rip the tires off till 5th, then on my way home from buying it, it dies on the highway, i get it running again and from that point on it has made the most of 292 and 308 on a dyno tryin to tune it to figure the problem out.

Paul Bell

iTrader: (9)

The first part of post #25 sounds really REALLY like you have spark plug wires 6 & 8 swapped. Confirm ***** on that all wires are correct. If 6 & 8 are swapped, it can really fool you.

Second half of #25, I'd check all the grounds.

Moving on to post #26, it sounds like the harnesses were really hacked up. It also sounds like you've been working on them. Perhaps you've missed something that's still hacked?

Sounds like a good challenge tho. If you get too frustrated (as it's a LT1 after all...) just step away for a bit so you can reset without throwing things. You'll get there.

xrambbc

yes i have been working very very hard to pin point this issue but with no engine codes coming up and having the wiring gone thru at least 4 times i just dont know where to start, where are all the grounds, im gunna grab my haynes wiring pages and i guess start looking everyhting over, does anything go into the car besides the gauges that would control anything that would cause a problem, any go to the BCM under the console?

95firebird383

Any answer to this? I have same exact issue.

Tony Love

Hello,I have a 95 lt1 also having the same problem. I have a 6al msd ign set up w/a blaster coil. I also have low voltage especially when I pulled a load. I sent the car to the shop change cap n rodtor. Any suggestions