water pump
Thread Starter
TECH Apprentice
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 301
Likes: 5
From: Miami Beach, Florida
water pump my pump is leaking from the weep hole, how long can i drive it before it completely goes out? i know im getting it fixed this sat, just wondering how long itll last cause i have to drive across the city(26miles) tomorrow.
Thanks
Thanks
Thread Starter
TECH Apprentice
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 301
Likes: 5
From: Miami Beach, Florida
its up to you. Electric will be much more expensive and more prone to failure, and you wont gain much performance wise. I still went ahead and got a CSR ewp. On a CSR you might have enough room to install it without trimming the fan shroud, but you will have to grind down parts of the water pump. However the hard part is the wiring (at least to me)
There is no answer for this question. Once a mechanical part starts to fail it will continue to get worse at every rpm the motor makes to complete failure. How long ? who knows? Ive driven maybe 2-3 days with my saturn before the leaking pump went from a drip to a ****. Another time different car it lasted a week..... Either way its not good. Remeber as said before you have hot coolant dripping on your opti. I wouldn't chance it with my camaro, my DD yes. good luck either way if you decide to drive it
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Thread Starter
TECH Apprentice
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 301
Likes: 5
From: Miami Beach, Florida
There is no answer for this question. Once a mechanical part starts to fail it will continue to get worse at every rpm the motor makes to complete failure. How long ? who knows? Ive driven maybe 2-3 days with my saturn before the leaking pump went from a drip to a ****. Another time different car it lasted a week..... Either way its not good. Remeber as said before you have hot coolant dripping on your opti. I wouldn't chance it with my camaro, my DD yes. good luck either way if you decide to drive it
True well im gonna tell the truth ive been driving it for about 2 weeks like this daily and do about 15 miles a day where i work. so i guess it the matter of time till it fails... and my opti is doing good so far.
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Verdad Gallardo I am a proponent of EWPs. They offer many performance advantages over their mechanical counterparts (look up the dyno results on WS6.com), despite the bad rap they get. Let's face it, there are FAR more unreliable aftermarket parts that are FAR more common (MSD opti, adjustable fuel pressure regs, etc.) yet people continue to install them. EWP failure stories are few and far between. I'd bet for every 1 EWP failure there's at least 5 MSD opti failures.
For the record, my EWP has lasted since 2004, which included sitting idle for 3 years under a tree, and is on my current motor. I have since purchased a spare in case this one goes bad (which is only marginally more expensive than an OEM, not "much more expensive").
The CSR requires no cutting of the fan shroud - only minor grinding on the pump housing (worth the trade-off to not have a hacked up fan shroud...a smart move on CSRs part). And the wiring is incredibly simple. A standard automotive relay, a few wire terminals and some wire is all you need.
Anywho, that's that. If you're looking for a few extra HP, reduced stress on the front cam bearing or the option of eventually installing a double roller timing chain, or like being able to cool your car down in the pits by circulating coolant with the flick of a switch or bleeding your cooling system with the engine off, then the EWP is for you.
/holla
For the record, my EWP has lasted since 2004, which included sitting idle for 3 years under a tree, and is on my current motor. I have since purchased a spare in case this one goes bad (which is only marginally more expensive than an OEM, not "much more expensive").
The CSR requires no cutting of the fan shroud - only minor grinding on the pump housing (worth the trade-off to not have a hacked up fan shroud...a smart move on CSRs part). And the wiring is incredibly simple. A standard automotive relay, a few wire terminals and some wire is all you need.
Anywho, that's that. If you're looking for a few extra HP, reduced stress on the front cam bearing or the option of eventually installing a double roller timing chain, or like being able to cool your car down in the pits by circulating coolant with the flick of a switch or bleeding your cooling system with the engine off, then the EWP is for you.
/holla
Thread Starter
TECH Apprentice
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 301
Likes: 5
From: Miami Beach, Florida
I am a proponent of EWPs. They offer many performance advantages over their mechanical counterparts (look up the dyno results on WS6.com), despite the bad rap they get. Let's face it, there are FAR more unreliable aftermarket parts that are FAR more common (MSD opti, adjustable fuel pressure regs, etc.) yet people continue to install them. EWP failure stories are few and far between. I'd bet for every 1 EWP failure there's at least 5 MSD opti failures.
For the record, my EWP has lasted since 2004, which included sitting idle for 3 years under a tree, and is on my current motor. I have since purchased a spare in case this one goes bad (which is only marginally more expensive than an OEM, not "much more expensive").
The CSR requires no cutting of the fan shroud - only minor grinding on the pump housing (worth the trade-off to not have a hacked up fan shroud...a smart move on CSRs part). And the wiring is incredibly simple. A standard automotive relay, a few wire terminals and some wire is all you need.
Anywho, that's that. If you're looking for a few extra HP, reduced stress on the front cam bearing or the option of eventually installing a double roller timing chain, or like being able to cool your car down in the pits by circulating coolant with the flick of a switch or bleeding your cooling system with the engine off, then the EWP is for you.
/holla
For the record, my EWP has lasted since 2004, which included sitting idle for 3 years under a tree, and is on my current motor. I have since purchased a spare in case this one goes bad (which is only marginally more expensive than an OEM, not "much more expensive").
The CSR requires no cutting of the fan shroud - only minor grinding on the pump housing (worth the trade-off to not have a hacked up fan shroud...a smart move on CSRs part). And the wiring is incredibly simple. A standard automotive relay, a few wire terminals and some wire is all you need.
Anywho, that's that. If you're looking for a few extra HP, reduced stress on the front cam bearing or the option of eventually installing a double roller timing chain, or like being able to cool your car down in the pits by circulating coolant with the flick of a switch or bleeding your cooling system with the engine off, then the EWP is for you.
/holla
thanks bro. one more problem i took my car to get the tranny fixed about 3 weeks ago and i got it back with my oil pressure gauge at 0all the time, it doesn't work. and i have the red light saying check gauges. and ive been driving and checking the oil everyday for 3 weeks. i confronted the transmission guy and he said he has no clue and that he had nothing to do with it, hes a dumbass. but what could be wrong? the sensor? wires? or something more, btw where is the sensor located? on the back on the intake manifold?
thanks.
The sensor is on the back of the intake. Its a little black cylinder shaped thing. I broke mine installing my transmission Im sure your tranny guy did to. Funny thing is my car is leaking from the weep hole to. Im more worried about the water getting into the opti than the pump failing.
Im considering an Electric pump myself but Im about to buy a truck to drive for a daily. Does anyone know how long it takes for an engine to get catastrophically hot after an EWP quits pumping? I check my gauges religiously, but if it takes less than a minute for the car to run hot then I guess Ill wire in some kind of light or buzzer.
Im considering an Electric pump myself but Im about to buy a truck to drive for a daily. Does anyone know how long it takes for an engine to get catastrophically hot after an EWP quits pumping? I check my gauges religiously, but if it takes less than a minute for the car to run hot then I guess Ill wire in some kind of light or buzzer.
Thread Starter
TECH Apprentice
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 301
Likes: 5
From: Miami Beach, Florida
The sensor is on the back of the intake. Its a little black cylinder shaped thing. I broke mine installing my transmission Im sure your tranny guy did to. Funny thing is my car is leaking from the weep hole to. Im more worried about the water getting into the opti than the pump failing.
Im considering an Electric pump myself but Im about to buy a truck to drive for a daily. Does anyone know how long it takes for an engine to get catastrophically hot after an EWP quits pumping? I check my gauges religiously, but if it takes less than a minute for the car to run hot then I guess Ill wire in some kind of light or buzzer.
Im considering an Electric pump myself but Im about to buy a truck to drive for a daily. Does anyone know how long it takes for an engine to get catastrophically hot after an EWP quits pumping? I check my gauges religiously, but if it takes less than a minute for the car to run hot then I guess Ill wire in some kind of light or buzzer.
Ok thanks, what would i need to replace it, and how do i replace it?
To make it easy you need an oil pressure sensor socket - that's about it.
When the pump stops running it only takes a few minutes to overheat. A warning light/buzzer is always a good idea. There are several wiring schematics available online that show you exactly what to do. If you want to get really hardcore fancy you could wire in a 12v ammeter to see how much power the pump draws under normal operation, then set a high limit to trigger a light/alarm if the pump motor starts drawing too much.
When the pump stops running it only takes a few minutes to overheat. A warning light/buzzer is always a good idea. There are several wiring schematics available online that show you exactly what to do. If you want to get really hardcore fancy you could wire in a 12v ammeter to see how much power the pump draws under normal operation, then set a high limit to trigger a light/alarm if the pump motor starts drawing too much.
i wouldn't be afraid of the EWP on the car.......ive had mine for 6 years now with no issues........and as joe said they do offer many advantages such as full capacity even at lower engine speeds as well as small power gains/savings............also just lightly trim the fan shroud and it will fit just fine........i run a meziere on mine with no issues at all
TECH Veteran
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 4,985
Likes: 112
I replaced the POS fuse with a inline WeatherPac type and have had that pump on 12 years and have 75k miles on it. Meziere has since gone with a WeatherPac "OEM" type connector. If you monitor your gauge you will be fine or you can wire in some form of light/alarm if you feel you want that.
TECH Apprentice
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 323
Likes: 2
From: NW AR
Replace those seals, right now you would only be out a couple of water pump gaskets, seals, blue rtv, and some of your time. Soon it starts to cost more than that. You don't have to go EWP, especially if cost is a concern. If you do stay mechanical check to see if the bearings on the water pump are in decent shape.
Now if you do want to run a electric water pump, there is three types that I have tried. I originally had a CSR (didn't they change names a while back) because you don't have to cut the electric fan shroud. Anyways the seal on the CSR failed and let water into the electric motor, it popped the fuse and stopped working.
I then went to order a new CSR but the wait time was like over a month so I grabbed a Jegs EWP that is still running fine, it is really long and required me to cut into the plastic fan shroud for clearance.
Also for my other LT1 motor I have a Meziere EWP, it looks pretty good however I have not run it and it seems that it will be long enough that you would have to trim the plastic.
Now if you do want to run a electric water pump, there is three types that I have tried. I originally had a CSR (didn't they change names a while back) because you don't have to cut the electric fan shroud. Anyways the seal on the CSR failed and let water into the electric motor, it popped the fuse and stopped working.
I then went to order a new CSR but the wait time was like over a month so I grabbed a Jegs EWP that is still running fine, it is really long and required me to cut into the plastic fan shroud for clearance.
Also for my other LT1 motor I have a Meziere EWP, it looks pretty good however I have not run it and it seems that it will be long enough that you would have to trim the plastic.
Staging Lane
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 72
Likes: 0
From: ATX
I love my CSR! Also when an EWP fails it is super easy to change it. If you use the stock housing you may have to dremel the inside out a bit like I did but after that you are good to go. I cut a little out of my fan shroud so it would fit.
^ around here you can get replacement ones for 59.99 also with a lifetime warranty. They include a new housing too. Rebuild kits for around 30 bucks. The cheapest electric one i saw is over $100 more and it was only the motor, so yeah they are much more expensive if you consider everything including what you really gain over a mechanical one.