LT1-LT4 Modifications 1993-97 Gen II Small Block V8

Looking for some opinions

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Old Oct 29, 2011 | 12:36 AM
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Default Looking for some opinions

I've been debating with myself to either build a 383 lt1 or LM7 to swap in my car. If I go w/ the lt1, I'm going to end up buying another motor and building it so I can still drive my car. If I go with the LM7, I already have one if I want it for free minus accessories and wiring harness. I don't know much about engine building, but am surrounded by people who do that will be helping me out along the way. I'd like to eventually be running 10's in the 1/4 but am stuck on what build to go with to get there and don't really have a budget in mind as of right now. Any opinions would be awesome, would like to hear what others would do.
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Old Oct 29, 2011 | 01:12 AM
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First work on the budget part. Then id probably go for a lt1 over an lm7. Just cus im more familiarized with it and you wont need anything for an engine swap, since its the original engine that was in your car (assuming its all going in your 95 trans am).
Im not sure how expensive itll be to build a lm7, but an lt1 stroker wont be cheap.
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Old Oct 29, 2011 | 11:29 AM
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Originally Posted by Zlow28
First work on the budget part. Then id probably go for a lt1 over an lm7. Just cus im more familiarized with it and you wont need anything for an engine swap, since its the original engine that was in your car (assuming its all going in your 95 trans am).
Im not sure how expensive itll be to build a lm7, but an lt1 stroker wont be cheap.
I've been thinking about stroking my 93 lt1. I found an Eagle stroker kit PN B13403E for $739 .... Crank rods pistons rings bearings...... If your not going to have the block machine to true up everything where's the "won't be cheap part"? Is there anything else needed that would add a big expence? Maybe cam, tall valve covers? What else would add to the cost?
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Old Oct 29, 2011 | 11:51 AM
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You are not seeing the entire picture.. First off that kit is wrong entirely .. Lt1's are one piece rear mains.. That kit is a 2pcs.. cast cranks have a high failure rate, those pistons are junk if you plan on using N2o .. You are forgetting cam bearings & installation, boreing cylinders,line bore and hone, clearancing the block, Balance combo localy,cam,springs,rockers,head work, hardware, pump, pickup, pan, lifters, stall or clutch,injectors,tune ,gaskets ,fluids.. Then comes trans failure to save for... I've been building mine since February and am 3000+ into it and need about 1500 more to finish just the motor and have it in..
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Old Oct 29, 2011 | 02:06 PM
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Originally Posted by DamienS
I've been thinking about stroking my 93 lt1. I found an Eagle stroker kit PN B13403E for $739 .... Crank rods pistons rings bearings...... If your not going to have the block machine to true up everything where's the "won't be cheap part"? Is there anything else needed that would add a big expence? Maybe cam, tall valve covers? What else would add to the cost?
if youre turning it into 383 stroker, youre going to have to have the block machined. Bored .30 over. But defaultexistence is right, everything is going to pile up real quick and a simple $800 bottom end "kit" wont cover it.

Remember theres 2 main parts to the engine 1)top end and 2)bottom.

Once you get your pistons, rods, crank, bearings, etc.. youll only be half done with engine parts only. NExt will be the top end and other random stuff which include:

1. cam
2. rockers & studs
3. pushrods
4. guideplates
5. lifters
6. valve springs
7. timing chain & sprockets
8. oil pump
9. Plugs & wires
10. fluids
11. heads
12. gaskets

After youre done with engine parts, youll need to focus on transmission, rear end, suspension, and other random bolt ons if you want to do things right. None of this includes shop labor either.
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Old Oct 29, 2011 | 10:19 PM
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According to several articles I've read the LM7 responds very well to head and cam make overs similar to all the other LS motors. Car craft put some junk edelbrock heads and a small cam on one out of a junkyard and twisted just shy of 500 at the fly out of it. You would have to invest in thinks like a harness, transmission, k member, steering rack, and a few things I can't really remember. Over all I would guess you'd spend about the same amount of money in the end so I'd say it all boils down to personal preference. Personally if I was going to go the LS route I'd roll with the LQ9 just for the extra cubes but if you already have the LM7 at your disposal that saves some cost for you.
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Old Oct 31, 2011 | 07:57 PM
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Will the lt1 4l60e work with a ls engine? I'm not looking to spend over 4k-5k for a rebuild. I'm not saying that 4k-5k is my budget but if I need to take small breaks to come up with more money I'm in no rush, as long as whatever I decide to do get's done properly. I'm not looking to break records, but defenitly want something respectable when I'm finished.

Last edited by puddingmmmmmmmm; Oct 31, 2011 at 09:22 PM.
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Old Nov 1, 2011 | 07:40 AM
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Go with the LM7, it has way more potential than the lt1. The 4l60e will still work just need a new bellhousing. You'll need an ls1 steering rack, and ls1 motor mounts.

If you do stay lt1 you need to either do a .030 over 355 with the stock crank, or a 383 with a forged crank rods and pistons. Do a search on eagle cast cranks and you will see why not to use them.
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Old Nov 3, 2011 | 09:54 PM
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I'm pretty sure my decision is heading towards an lq4. For the prices I've been seeing for one w/ all accessories, harness, pcm it looks like that's probably the smartest way to go. For the LM7, I'm going to be putting a good bit of money into all the accessories, harness, intake, etc since I currently don't have them. I'm wrapping up my thirdgen project, and close to putting it on craigslist. Once that's gone I'll be starting this project. Thanks for every ones opinions, I appreciate it.
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