so i am about to start my new engine for the 1st time. i disabled the 2 fuses that were specified in the haynes manual and have not yet put in the spark plugs and went to turn it over and build oil pressure before installing the spark plugs and enabling the fuses again, like the manual says.
when i turned it over it sounded like it was actually starting so i got scared and turned the key to off. i did this because i have been picturing this part pretty silent in my head and didnt expect to hear it actually try to start.
so my question is, should it do this or should it be silent like i imagined?
i am looking for any info asap as i am trying to get her on the road tonite

 

If you disabled the injectors, and pulled the plugs, you are just being jumpy. There is no way in hell a motor is going to start without spark and fuel.

Cranking over a motor is going to be noisy, especially without plugs in it. Not a big deal at all.

 

pull the harness from the opti.. it will be fine to crank it after that. But if you really want to be safe you can pull the connections to each of the injectors too.

 

thanks guys! got it primed and started! seems to be running strong only have a few issues that i know of.
my oil pressure is maxed out on my gauge? and my coolant temp gauge is all the way down, never rose? and when im taking off from 1st it seems like i can kinda feel the engine rotation in the gas pedal, if that makes any sense. it doesnt seem like too big an issue but it is something that concerns me, as well as the 2 gauge readings(which i assume is maybe 2 bad sending units??)

97 z28 lt1 6 speed

 

When i put my new engine in my car this year my oil pressure was exactly the same way maxed out. It took about a 100 to get it off maxed out and then after about a 500 it came dropped to about 3/4 cold and sits just below half when hot. Your temp issue is likely due to a bad temp switch on your drivers side head or in the waterpump. If they are bad they can cause alot of funky issues.

 

If your oil pressure gauge is maxed out then the sending unit is either not connected or the wiring is broken/open, guaranteed. That's what happens when the dash doesn't receive the signal.

To test the coolant temp sensor: http://shbox.com/1/4th_gen_tech2.html#ect

 

thanks! thats kinda what i was figuring.
any one have any thoughts on the other thing?
i can feel something rotate/grind/pop when i am taking off in 1st and dependent upon the speed, also in the begining of 2nd. its not fast or very rapid. its repetition is similar to a regular counting speed(ie 1, 2, 3, 4....) just slightly faster.
maybe it has something to do with the rumble and low backpressure from the exhaust? im running pacesetter longtubes and ORY, with flowmaster piping dumped just before the muffler

 

Did you actually hear it fire or did the cranking speed up and then slow down? If it sped up and slowed down that is a good indication the cylinder pressure in your engine is not even. I would suspect the valves for certain cylinders are not adjusted properly. I would look into this ASAP. The other part of this sounds like it could be a u-joint problem. Not too sure about that though.

 

to me it sounded exactly like a car turning over and cranking up, only i killed the ignition immediately after i heard that. when i went and tried again, i disabled 2 more fuses to be sure and disable everything that had to do with ignition. then i turned it over and it sounded like a high speed drill.
adjusting the valves is adjusting the rocker arms?

 

Reads like the starter was not engaging the flywheel. Next time you do this just pull the PCM BATT fuse. The only thing it won't kill is the fuel pump, but that doesn't matter since the injectors will not actuate. If it fires up, cool. Because it's first start up I'd still check the lash on the valves to ensure everything is good.