94BlueZ28

iTrader: (34)

So i followed a wiring diagram that was provided off of here however I'm having a charging issue. To start with I just purchased a brand new ALT because my last one was squealing all though tested good, the new one is squealing as well even worse when I turn on my head light so I'm picking up another tomorrow to see if that takes care of it that issue. Both test good though! On to the main concern, the diagram will clearly show you how I ran my wiring, did I do something wrong? I can start the car and run just fine however it seems like its just running off the battery because when I stop some where and then go to start it again it has a lack of power and the Volts are down and the bitch barely wants to crank. It's weird cause I can turn the Kill Switch to off and the car completely turns off like it should do so I'm stumped. As you can see I have the ALT and the battery power wire on the positive side and then the 0 gauge ran to the front which is connected by a bolt that splits off to the fusable links, EWP and starter. Any help would help

Brand new yellow top with 1000 cold cranking amps and new alt, something is going wrong here.... Oh a tad bit more info I forgot to mention. When I went to disconnect the power wire on the back of the ALT with the kill switch off the ALT sparked when i touched the wrench to it so how come it kills it when I'm running but like there is constant power there when I go to remove the power wire. Thanks for the help in advance!

93QWKZEE

iTrader: (13)

From I can gather from your info you may have been another victim of a crappy rebuilt alternator there has been numerous people with this charging issue and replacing there alternator with rebuilt ones only to find the same dropping voltage issue. Check this thread out https://ls1tech.com/forums/lt1-lt4-m...ge-issues.html I guess when testing the voltage regulators there doing when there cold and they pass the test but once there warm to operating temp there no good. Also what kill switch did you use I know alot of the taylor or moroso style switches are only rated for lower amps and you need alot more amps for the alternator cut off switch maybe that has something to do with power being still in the alt! Just a few ideas to rule out.

FAD2BLK93

That right up on low voltage is a very good one, the main topic are ground connections...Are yours solid, u may have an issue there.

lordrazo

iTrader: (18)

do you have the single wire about a 14 gauge red wire on a plug it should be plugged in and ran to a power source with a resister unless you have it going to stock harness pm me if im not explaining well enough but if the alt doesn't have a power recognition source it wont turn on to charge

94BlueZ28

iTrader: (34)

lordrazo, yes I have the single wire that is the plug in connector and then the power wire is screwed into the back along with my my racetronix fuel wiring!

The ALT grounds through the bracket and the motor and the connecting spots are clean of paint! All my grounds are in stock locations, my ground in the rear is to bare metal around the seat belt bolt like everyone does. Ground isn't the issue. Charging is the issue. The car apparently is running just fine off the battery just not getting charged back up. Does the wiring diagram look correct thought how it is wired??????? I am currently using the Taylor cut off switch that I have seen hundreds of people use, I cant see that being the issue but hell who knows! I have no clue that's why I'm looking for ideas. I met a guy at the Orlando drag strip the other night that stated his firebird is doing the same thing. I laughed and said welcome to the club. It's a pretty straight forward install i thought. Any more thoughts?

93QWKZEE

iTrader: (13)

Your wiring looks fine. Mine is almost identical and I had the same issues with my alternator not to long ago.I would open the alt up if possible and check the voltage regulator as stated in that link I posted.Check for the green dot! Where did you buy the new alternator from?

NewOrleansLT1

I had the same issue and I had 0 gauge wiring! I relocated the battery to the front and the issues went away. I suggest that you get the 21 pound battery from Braille and call it a day... The stock battery weights 40lbs FYI.

sweetbmxrider

iTrader: (13)

Alternator sounds like an issue but you should go from the kill switch directly to the starter and use the starter to jump to the positive post.

Big Al

iTrader: (1)

Get a voltmeter and read the battery voltage with the engine running @ around 1,500 RPM and all accessories off.

Post the reading.

Al 95 Z28

94BlueZ28

iTrader: (34)

Well got the squealing finally to go away after swapping out another ALT.... Still I'm having the charging issue though. Pisses me off honestly! I haven't had a chance to test it with the mullimeter yet. Been super busy at work.

I maybe leaning towards the Voltage regulator inside the ALT not being swapped out on refurbished units. At this point I have no damn clue. Really strange! I will be busting out the multimeter in a day or 2 and get some readings though. Thanks for the help once again guys. It's the little things that get me angry with this car. I guess if it where 100% sound then I wouldn't have anything to work on though right, lol!

94BlueZ28

iTrader: (34)

SweetBMXrider, Just cursious why to run a straight wire from the kill switch to the starter, and then run another peice of wire from the starter to the Postive post? My starter makes no noise or clicking what so ever. I had a buddy build me a high torque starter and it hasn't had an issue at all. Would this contribute to charging? I initially use it to start the car but it's for a few seconds when the battery is charged, lol!

sweetbmxrider

iTrader: (13)

I can run big *** cable that way. The bigger the better and match your grounds to it.

Big Al

iTrader: (1)

Who made the switch you're using?

Al 95 Z28

94BlueZ28

iTrader: (34)

Readings taken tonight at idle...
Car off:
Battery 12.4
Alt .9

Car off, key in acc:
Battery 12
Alt .5

Car Started:
Battery 14.2
At Taylor Switch: starts at 9.2 and decreased to 8.6
Alt sparked like it was fourth of July

Only reading taken at 1500 rpm was the battery which was 14.1 steady

Wasn't for sure how to test the plug and play connector on the alt for 12 volts because the headers are right there, tried and now I have a burnt thumb, lol!

Any thoughts???? Seems like the alt is not pushing enough back to charge the battery YES?????

Big Al

iTrader: (1)

Car Started:
Battery 14.2
At Taylor Switch: starts at 9.2 and decreased to 8.6
Alt sparked like it was fourth of July

The above makes no sense. How many terminals are on the Taylor switch? Most Taylor switches have two.

Al 95 Z28

94BlueZ28

iTrader: (34)

Perfect since. At designated location. At battery, at the alt , at the switch. Sorry for confusion.

sweetbmxrider

iTrader: (13)

Arcing tells you there is a poor connection

94BlueZ28

iTrader: (34)

So it very well could have been my ground on the multimeter wasn't sufficent enough correct? All my connectors on the wire where installed by an electric company that had the right crimping tool to squeez them. Channel locks wasn't good enough for me!

Big Al

iTrader: (1)

Why not TRY to answer my questions? I'm trying to help and the readings make no sense. Unless something's wrong which is what I'm trying to help you find out.

Al 95 Z28

94BlueZ28

iTrader: (34)

Big Al dude, read. I know you're trying to help but what needs explained or answered. It states , taylor switch and the readings from each spot I tested. When the car was started I tested the battery itself and got 14.2. I then took a reading from the Taylor switch, it read 9.2 and it started to decrease to 8.6. I then went to the alternator to take a reading and it sparked like the 4th of july..... I think you where trying to read it all together. I put it all on seperate lines so it wouldnt read all jumbled together. Again sorry for the confusion and thanks for the help at the same time